Fitting steering rack to the T5 1.9

[Algypan]

The cursed T5 has struck again. Ok, rack has to come out as the rack seals suddenly let up and you can imagine the mess it made once I removed the boots.

I had a recon one delivered today but I'm unsure how to know if it's lined up on the input shaft. A search online seems to show someone marking with tipex a line to mark the input shaft before removing the bolt that holds the input shaft into the steering collum. However I don't exactly understand what they are lining up? Or if it is relevant if a new rack is going in as obviously the mark isn't on the new one. A look at the rack shows this (refer to pic).

The arrow circled in red doesn't seem to be aligned with the shaft circled in blue. Is it suppose to be? Am I suppose to somehow turn the shaft to align it somehow? God knows. I don't want to install it and the steering is all messed up. (I know I will need tracking re-done).

The haynes is a bit vague with this also as includes no pics for reference.

 

[PhillH]

Can you measure your existing rack ends before it is removed? Chock your steering wheel so it can not move once the pinch bolt is removed and set up the new rack in the same way and refit.

 

[Algypan]

Can you measure your existing rack ends before it is removed? Chock your steering wheel so it can not move once the pinch bolt is removed and set up the new rack in the same way and refit.

I currently have the steering lock on, will that be enough do you think? I made sure to have it on before I jacked it up and took the wheels off and took off the outer tie rods.

 

[PhillH]

Yes it should be providing the pinch bolt is accessible and you can get it out otherwise it might be a case of taking the steering lock off, move the steering column so you can get to the pinch bolt and then lock up again

 

[Algypan]

Yes it should be providing the pinch bolt is accessible and you can get it out otherwise it might be a case of taking the steering lock off, move the steering column so you can get to the pinch bolt and then lock up again

Forgive me if I sound stupid, but wouldn't that make the steering wheel out of alignment if I have to move it to gain access to the bolt and move it again to re-align it to the new shaft in the rack?

 

[PhillH]

No you are right, that’s why I mentioned about taking measurements so the new one is fitted the same if the wheel was turned at all. From memory if the wheels are facing forward then the bolt is accessible and removable.

 

[Dundee_Kev]

Get a pair of grips on the new racks pinion and rotate to full lock. Once there, go full opposite lock making sure you know how many turns it takes and then turn it back half that amount. You don't want to install the rack with it one turn out as you'll break the clock spring once you turn the steering.

And as @PhillH says, if it doesn't line up just unlock the steering and rotate it the little bit to line up.

If the wheel is off centre a little, the wheel alignment will take care of that

 

[Algypan]

Ok, little update. That rack was not nice to get out, dreading it going back in.

I have measured the inner tie roads to around 26-27cm each side of the new rack and the dimple in the input shaft almost lines up with the arrow on the rack. Hopefully when I offer it up I will only need to unlock the steering wheel and give it a little turn to get it in. Hopefully that makes sense?

Also, seeing as I was feeling brave I thought I would clean out my steering fluid reservoir (has fragments in) and replace the pump also. While trying to remove the hex pulley bolts made of marshmellow on the pump, I proceeded to make an absolute mess of them. I mean... they are barely recognizable as bolts at this point. That'll teach me, eh! So I went to VW and ordered another pulley and bolts, but turns out I can't even remove the pump as the bolts that hold it in place are behind the pulley.

You actually can't make it up sometimes...

 

[Algypan]

Right, well that didn't work...

I've taken it to be tracked today and the guy reckons the rack has not been centralized properly as he had ran out of threads to wind the outer tie rod in. I had measured the distance between the rack edge to the end of the inner rod and both were 26cm, this also let me slide the input shaft straight in to the UJ without the wheel even being turned.

I don't understand what has went wrong...

 

[PhillH]

That is strange, there must be someone on here who has swapped one.

If that’s the case, can you remove the bolt from the UJ and lock the steering wheel. Undo the outer tie rods and rotate the steering shaft in the direction it ran out of thread. Attached it back together with the outer tie rods being equal and go lock to lock to check you have the same lock on both sides.

 

[Dundee_Kev]

If the steering rack is centered and the track rod ends are on equal and you say it then mated up to the straight ahead steering wheel, then I cant see why it's miles out.

I would get the track rods set even again, remove and reposition the steering wheel straight and get tracking done.

How far out was the steering wheel once the new racks was fitted? Is it both track rods that are getting adjusted and running out of thread?? If that is the case. Then I'm thinking maybe the rack has been fitted with wrong inner track rods

 

[Algypan]

If the steering rack is centered and the track rod ends are on equal and you say it then mated up to the straight ahead steering wheel, then I cant see why it's miles out.

I would get the track rods set even again, remove and reposition the steering wheel straight and get tracking done.

How far out was the steering wheel once the new racks was fitted? Is it both track rods that are getting adjusted and running out of thread?? If that is the case. Then I'm thinking maybe the rack has been fitted with wrong inner track rods

The steering wheel was straight when I refitted the rack and I get 1 and 3 quarter turns on the left turns and 1 and a half on the right. It was the drivers side tie rod that ran out of thread. I'll be honest, I didn't think a quarter turn would of made much difference

I really don't want to take it out again....

I did get hold of the place I bought it and they were certain they were the correct inner tie rods, however to rule it out for my own peace of mind I have bought more that I will pick up today

 

[Algypan]

I'm under it now and while turning the input shaft I noticed the small hole and a very small arrow underneath it. I thought this would line up with the big arrow (see pic in first post) to be central? What's the reasons for them otherwise.

I've got myself in a right pickle here, ol' chaps

 

[Algypan]

Lined up the arrows on the rack and pinion and the distance between the rack and the inner rods were equal.

Just took it to be re-tracked and the guy said it's still not aligned as there is an extra 8th of a turn on the right hand side. He said he has made it as straight as possible but is unsure how long until it chews through these tyres.

So I'm stuck...

I think I'm going to show the pic with the arrows to the local VW specialist and see what they make of it.

For reference, this is where it's currently installed: (sorry it's a bit blurry)

 

[Dundee_Kev]

I can't understand why its miles out. Forgetting about the arrows, if you turn the rack all one way then count distance to get to other lock and half it. Then turn it back this measured distance, then the rack is in the centre. Screw track rods on evenly, say 18-20 turns or there abouts. Now connect the column to the rack.

If the column won't align, just turn the column, not the rack so it does. If the steering wheel is out after this, I'd be removing it and repositioning it to straight. Now it should drive straight with the steering wheel roughly straight.

Now when it's tracked, should pretty much just need the track rods adjusted evenly

 

[Algypan]

I can't understand why its miles out. Forgetting about the arrows, if you turn the rack all one way then count distance to get to other lock and half it. Then turn it back this measured distance, then the rack is in the centre. Screw track rods on evenly, say 18-20 turns or there abouts. Now connect the column to the rack.

If the column won't align, just turn the column, not the rack so it does. If the steering wheel is out after this, I'd be removing it and repositioning it to straight. Now it should drive straight with the steering wheel roughly straight.

Now when it's tracked, should pretty much just need the track rods adjusted evenly

This is exactly what I did. The center lined up with the arrows, both sides were even and I turned the column about 45 degrees to get it onto the rack. I'm starting to think someone previously has removed the steering wheel and not put it on straight? However the van had been tracked perfectly a few times before the new rack and the wheel was always centered.

I would be questioning the garage who are doing the tracking but I've used them for over 15 years with no issues and that's what they specialise in.

 

[Dundee_Kev]

I'd be resetting it then removing the wheel to pop it back on in the central position. Your asking a lot to bring the wheel back straight by adjusting the track rods

 

[Algypan]

I'd be resetting it then removing the wheel to pop it back on in the central position. Your asking a lot to bring the wheel back straight by adjusting the track rods

I need to confirm I'm not going insane here...

I re-measured and with the arrows meeting on the input shaft and rack, the distance is exactly 87mm from the inner rack to the beginning of the inner tie rod on BOTH sides. It's perfectly even. However if I use the lock to lock method, it's 3 and a quarter to full lock, I then half this and the arrows do not align, which is fine, but then when I go lock to lock from the middle of the full lock, I still get more turns in one direction than the other even though I've halved the turns.

I'm very confused right now, or I'm a huge moron and missing something and I'm completely oblivious to it...

Anyway, I really appreciate all the help and input from you guys. Your help is invaluable to folk like myself who get stuck in to these T5's.

 

[Algypan]

I'd be resetting it then removing the wheel to pop it back on in the central position. Your asking a lot to bring the wheel back straight by adjusting the track rods

Just an update...

Taking off the wheel and repositioning seemed to have worked. I took the rack out again and made sure it was central (for anyone wondering, the arrows on the input shaft and the rack is actually the center alignment, so no need to count turns and half it). Put the rack back on, made the outer tie rods equal turns on the threads and removed the steering wheel. Had it tracked today and the guy said it's now spot on. I mean, I now have an airbag light but I don't care about that right now.

Hopefully this thread helps anyone who struggled as much as I did.

Thanks for the help @Dundee_Kev and @PhillH

 

[PhillH]

Glad you managed to sort it in the end and updated the forum incase anyone else has issues in the future