Is it the spring roller bit thats snapped and the hinge pivot still in tact?
If yes two observations - the spring part looks staked into the main metal plate so doubt they are available separately. The hinge pivot looks to be a bolt so hopefully the bit attached to the body is available.
I have a can of mixed reflex silver and lacquer if you need the new one spraying also primer. I’m just down the road in Leicester (near Lutterworth).
I suggest a call to your local VW dealer parts dept.
Ian
If yes two observations - the spring part looks staked into the main metal plate so doubt they are available separately. The hinge pivot looks to be a bolt so hopefully the bit attached to the body is available.
I have a can of mixed reflex silver and lacquer if you need the new one spraying also primer. I’m just down the road in Leicester (near Lutterworth).
I suggest a call to your local VW dealer parts dept.
Ian
Oh hadnt noticed the crack! It seems to pass through a tube/sleeve thats staked - it has rust showing at the top so wonder if its siezed so only twisting (like a torsion bar) at the bottom rather than the full length of the bar.
Its perhaps a maintenance job to oil it - unfortunate failure for you but will helps other prevent it happening.
Keep us posted on the outcome.
Ian
Its perhaps a maintenance job to oil it - unfortunate failure for you but will helps other prevent it happening.
Keep us posted on the outcome.
Ian
Found a few new hinges on ebay (T5) with part number 7E0831412B - about £72-75 new.
Just need to check its the right part.
Ian
Just need to check its the right part.
Ian
I’d want it painting before fitting - you dont want the back of the hinge against the door and door jamb to be bare metal!
Ian
Ian
It’s 4 yes old so I’ve asked the question as it looks like rust from within
it will be sprayed when fitted mate as agree with you @Paynewright
it will be sprayed when fitted mate as agree with you @Paynewright
Ordered the part, it comes primed which is a great help, can I borrow alittle paint and lacquer plz good sir
Absolutely - PM sent!
I haven’t changed one on a T6 but it’s old one out new one in without loosing control of the door, I suggest parking under a point where you can suspend the doors weight or build a wooden support frame with adjustable wedges to go under the door. Make sure you have an assistant to control the door while you engage the bolts.Any how to guides on how to change the door hinges with pics ideally as I love colour pics
There is one external bolt (visible) and one bolt inside under mat or trim.
The hinge is normally slotted to allow for alignment so be careful to match this.
I’m replacing an A4 drivers door lower hinge later this week, I’ve just spent 30 min making a special spanner with a few bends and dog legs to get access to the external bolt.
The T6 hinge looks much easier.
Looking at the pictures of hinges on ebay, the part that fits against the body seems to have a threaded hole in it as well as a plain hole. Plain one for the visible fixing in the jamb but wonder if the threaded hole has a fixing in from the back / dash side?
I think it could be a two person job simply to keep control of the door. I would also look and see if some skinny pipe lagging will go over the edge of the wing to prevent contact.
I think it could be a two person job simply to keep control of the door. I would also look and see if some skinny pipe lagging will go over the edge of the wing to prevent contact.
It looks like the external bolt with a spline drive will need to be used with a ring spanner not a ratchet.
It’s just a few bolts, the important part is keeping control of the doors weight and position. If you have doubts about that then I would get it done professionally as dropping the door damaging the top hinge, loom and potentially the door gets expensive. Definitely a job where the planning / prep’ takes longer than the spanner work.
I have etch primer too!!
