Clutch position sensor T6 Kombi

[Scarista]

Hello forum,
I cannot start my 2017 Kombi. SGJ
I have a depress clutch measage on the dash to start, so I have assumed it’s the clutch position sensor. The fuse is good and I’ve now taken the clutch pedal off (part number 7E0721401F)
The part seems unavailable worldwide from Volkswagen and after market brands and stockists. Volkswagen say they might be available in April or May!
Does anybody know why this part is unavailable or have one I could buy.
It’s a 4 pin plug and the sensor is built into the clutch master cylinder.
The wires are red, green, yellow, black
I’ve tested the wires and the red has 12v, no volts or ground on green or yellow and ground on the black.
Would any one know if there’s a way to send a voltage through…….. I assume the green or yellow wires to trick the ECU, so that I can start the van.
It’s my work vehicle, so I’m pretty desperate.
Any help or advice would be very much appreciated.
Thanks, Alan

 

[T32Rich]

VIP membership may be useful to you, gives access to downloadable materials (wiring diagrams etc) £12.99/year.

 

[Scarista]

Thanks, I’ll look into the into the subscription

 

[KGCali]

Thanks, I’ll look into the into the subscription

Did you ever get this fixed? My van is having similar starting problems with clutch sensor, thought it would be a simple clutch switch but it doesn't have one, only the clutch position sensor built into the master cylinder.
Some are stating it could also be a faulty ignition switch/lock.
Be good to know how you got on.

 

[DXX]

@Scarista

 

[Scarista]

Did you ever get this fixed? My van is having similar starting problems with clutch sensor, thought it would be a simple clutch switch but it doesn't have one, only the clutch position sensor built into the master cylinder.
Some are stating it could also be a faulty ignition switch/lock.
Be good to know how you got on.

I waited months for a new clutch master cylinder with inbuilt sensor. When I plugged the new one in, it still wouldn’t start, so it wasn’t the sensor!
The van eventually started and I drove it for a couple of weeks and then it wouldn’t start again.
I’m now trying to trace the fault in the wiring or relays etc.
Unfortunately I live on a Scottish island and there’s no auto electricians. I’m not great with electrical circuits, but I’ll update the thread when I find the fault or have it fixed.

 

[Scarista]

(Update)
After weeks of listening to a computer that was telling me I had a clutch position sender issue that wouldn’t let me turn over or start the van, I went back to basics and found the fault!
I checked all the fuses, relays, connections and signal wires etc and was basically chasing my tail………
I put a test light on the starter trigger wire and videoed it whilst I tried to start the van.
I turned the ignition on then pressed the clutch and noticed that the test light lit momentarily when I pressed the clutch and then went out.
I had already cleaned all the earth connections etc, but then I checked the resistance readings starting from the battery earth lead to the chassis, then to the lead, then to the end of the lead and then to the engine block. There was no resistance until I went from the battery terminal to the engine block and I got a reading of 3 ohms!
It turned out that the engine mount then bolts to another solid aluminum secondary engine mount and the resistance was between the 2 aluminum faces and causing the high resistance readings.
Rather than dismantle the engine mounts I fitted another earth strap from the chassis, directly to a bolt to the engine.
Hey presto, the van turned over faster than it ever had and started immediately.
So in the end, when I was trying to start the van, the voltage and current drop caused by the resistance in the earth route was shutting down the ECU.
(See photo with the secondary engine mount mark with an X and the route of the new earth lead)

Hope this helps someone in future.

 

[T32Rich]

(Update)
After weeks of listening to a computer that was telling me I had a clutch position sender issue that wouldn’t let me turn over or start the van, I went back to basics and found the fault!
I checked all the fuses, relays, connections and signal wires etc and was basically chasing my tail………
I put a test light on the starter trigger wire and videoed it whilst I tried to start the van.
I turned the ignition on then pressed the clutch and noticed that the test light lit momentarily when I pressed the clutch and then went out.
I had already cleaned all the earth connections etc, but then I checked the resistance readings starting from the battery earth lead to the chassis, then to the lead, then to the end of the lead and then to the engine block. There was no resistance until I went from the battery terminal to the engine block and I got a reading of 3 ohms!
It turned out that the engine mount then bolts to another solid aluminum secondary engine mount and the resistance was between the 2 aluminum faces and causing the high resistance readings.
Rather than dismantle the engine mounts I fitted another earth strap from the chassis, directly to a bolt to the engine.
Hey presto, the van turned over faster than it ever had and started immediately.
So in the end, when I was trying to start the van, View attachment 326437the voltage and current drop caused by the resistance in the earth route was shutting down the ECU.
(See photo with the secondary engine mount mark with an X and the route of the new earth lead)

Hope this helps someone in future.

Great find and save!

 

[DXX]

Have you tried disconnecting the new earth strap just to double check it was the cause?