Perfect.
Risk assessment completed.
No separate fuse needed.
......
Just Fuse all the outgoing circuits from the busbar.
Another wiring diagram for scrutiny
- Thread starter middle-englander
- Start date
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- camper electrics
Risk assessment completed.
No separate fuse needed.
......
Just Fuse all the outgoing circuits from the busbar.
this is why i like to use FUSED Busbars. . . "two birds one stone", a BusBar and fusebox in one.
and even with these - i still use a master fuse.
for example. . .
..
battery box. . . - https://amzn.to/3vWcHEE
..
leisure battery fuse block. - https://amzn.to/3w7cgaU
..
starter battery fuse block: - https://amzn.to/3w7cgaU
++++++++++++
then the smaller stuff we can use the regular ATC style fuses. . .
examples:
++
....
this 12v relay switch fuse box looks interesting. . .
and even with these - i still use a master fuse.
for example. . .
..
battery box. . . - https://amzn.to/3vWcHEE
..
leisure battery fuse block. - https://amzn.to/3w7cgaU
..
starter battery fuse block: - https://amzn.to/3w7cgaU
++++++++++++
then the smaller stuff we can use the regular ATC style fuses. . .
examples:
++
....
this 12v relay switch fuse box looks interesting. . .
Who knew there was a fused busbar.
They’ll be for my next camper.
They’ll be for my next camper.
I finished the 230v setup yesterday with the CU, which leads me to a question...
If I'm on hookup and want to plug in my 15A charger, I'm guessing the 10A MCB that came with the CU isn't going to like that very much?
Should I replace it with a 15A MCB? How about when I'm on a site with 10A or less? Does that mean I shouldn't use it at all since it will blow the site fuse?
If I'm on hookup and want to plug in my 15A charger, I'm guessing the 10A MCB that came with the CU isn't going to like that very much?
Should I replace it with a 15A MCB? How about when I'm on a site with 10A or less? Does that mean I shouldn't use it at all since it will blow the site fuse?
Thanks, that makes sense. I couldn't actually find the input power but stumbled across something on another forum:
Battery Voltage x Battery Charge Current x Efficiency Factor
So for a 10A charge current and the battery nearly full at 14.8V and an efficiency or 94%
10x14.8x1.06 = 157W
So for me that would be 15x14.8x1.06 = 235W = ~1A.
Battery Voltage x Battery Charge Current x Efficiency Factor
So for a 10A charge current and the battery nearly full at 14.8V and an efficiency or 94%
10x14.8x1.06 = 157W
So for me that would be 15x14.8x1.06 = 235W = ~1A.
Yep remember the overall power of electrical energy is watts which is volts x amps.
And the reason you see different voltages is that resistance, which causes losses through heating, is entirely related to amps. So if you want a higher energy transfer with minimal losses you want to increase the voltage. Hence the higher voltages in the national grid but also things like EV traction systems (400v or 800v).
And the reason you see different voltages is that resistance, which causes losses through heating, is entirely related to amps. So if you want a higher energy transfer with minimal losses you want to increase the voltage. Hence the higher voltages in the national grid but also things like EV traction systems (400v or 800v).
