Search results for query: Cable route

Hi @wombatom I recently bought the same van variant and have already completed 4 out of the 5 upgrades you're considering. Here's a quick rundown of my experience — hope it helps: I self installed the Alpine Halo 9 head unit, supplied by @Absolut5, who was incredibly helpful with advice. It's...

Hi all We are having a T6.1 T30 150PS Highline tailgate panelvan professionally converted (camper with kitchen) soon. We are considering having some original VW and/or third party retrofit options added, by other parties, either before or after conversion. Q. Which of the following are...

Here's how I laid the 6mm2 solar cables from the van to the pop top. I used 20mm flexible non-split conduit where the cable comes through the top of the light cluster held on to the bodywork with cable tie holders. I replaced the crap double sided tape on the holders with some proper foam tape...

Yeah I did the latter Chris. Drilled through to the pop top to the interior, close to the rear edge. Then working from the upstairs bed in the pop top I drilled another hole through the roof. Then glued a flexible Renogy 200w panel onto some corrugated poli carb sheeting which I glued to the pop...

In terms of cable routing for the panel, I'm coming through the grommet for the offside rear light cluster wiring. I created a small hole and put both cables through. Then I used black polyurethane sealant to make a good seal. I find any poly stuff which sets quite firm will be fine. Usually the...

Thanks for this - yet more to deliberate over. I’d prefer to have whatever components permanently fitted for reduced hassle and think the individual sizes of a traditional set-up would work out smaller and easier to install. But, all current set-ups I’ve seen is Victron components neatly laid...

Seems like such a little thing having a red 16mm and a H07RN cable (EHU) sticking out from here but routing these cables was a job I was dreading. Not in any way complete. Need to drill for two glands in the hatch under the bonnet still... but progress!

Hi all I can say is off my experience really as I needed to wire a led swamper light at the front in the bulk head you will see a rubber boot that goes inside the van I took out the vent on the passenger side and routed the wires with a relay and switch to the battery on its own fuse , my wiring...

All good after a year. Film and panel are exactly as they were when first fitted. The van lives outside so it has seen snow, ice, rain and some very hot sun with no issues. It’s also been exposed to some very strong winds plus prolonged high speed driving. The panel is a Renogy 200W flexible...

@ginkster Good writeup - a year on, how is the panel holding to the wrap? I've got a Reimo roof and am looking to put a 200+W panel on it. Probably would prefer rigid so it is easily removable but am a bit worried about the weight. So considering a flexible instead. What you have done here...

I’ve done the installation myself, so I never received a quote and don’t really have anything to compare it to. If that price is for labour only, it does sound a little on the high side. But if it includes the cables, brackets, and a charge controller, then it’s probably about right. That...

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I'm torn about sealing the front edge or not. If you do, thee cant be much airflow to cool, especially of pop top is up. On the plus side maybe less stuff will get in. ALthough I just thonght if park nose downhill it could get in from the rear. Hmmm I...

Suppose I'm thinking that by sealing the leading edge, they're shouldn't be too much stuff gets in there that will stick around. Even with pop top up, anything that does get in should run out with gravity as it'll be slanted downwards. I ended up going with a similar route (I think) to @Deaky...

Thanks, thats interesting. My thoughts about the polycarbonate are that the holes in it are not that big and fairly quickly could end up full of dirt/crap so not cooling as effectively as just left empty with one thick bead of sikaflex. As you went with a top mounted connection box on the...

This is how far I got with the cabling last night. Scanstrut gland on, 14-15mm diameter hole from hilo poptop into main van area, then cables rooted along soffit to B pillar on drivers side (electrics under drivers seat), but not routed behind pillar yet, because I didn't have the necessary...

Victron Energy SMART BatteryProtect 12/24-Volt 65 amp little use, was installed when i was running AGMS, BT version. ++++++ RRP £45 £20 collected + shipping ++++++ ++ https://www.victronenergy.com/battery_protect/smart-battery-protect ++ One of the best ways to shorten the life of...

Just bought a Miofive dash cam for the T6.1. Planning on fitting it next to the rear view mirror. Initially thinking of using the 12v socket on top of the dash before going down the hard wire route. Thinking of feeding the cable up in the headlining and along to the drivers side pillar. Coming...

Very useful. Mines converted and got some fancy roof lining with lights in so I really don’t want to butcher that. I’ll have to see how simple it’ll be to feed it I guess!

It was the first time I'd tried fitting one myself and went quite well. Mine is a T6 work van so I didn't have to remove as much trim. I mounted it on top of the old rear view mirror and just used a pry tool to push the wires up behind the head liner trim along the top of the windscreen and...

For me yes. I had to slightly scribe the middle section and the right hand side section as my roof inside trim drops down further as you go towards the rear of the van. Then use cabinet blocks to fix into the timber along the top and then finally screwed the right hand side into the actual...