VW T6 bed conversion OEM cargo mounting point issue

[Bedford0]

VW T6 bed conversion - I utilised the OEM cargo mounting points to secure the frame. This initially worked great the plastic cargo lashing cups created a step off from the rubber OEM cargo matting preventing any long-term compression marks. However, this later became an issue due to the plastic deforming under the weight. The solution came by eBay where a private seller was manufacturing to order stainless steel replacements. I thought I would pass this information on and hopefully support their efforts. Please see attached photos of my replacement stainless cargo cups being used as replacement mounted supports.

 

[CooseVW]

Hove you got a link to the listing? Also, I'd love to see more photos of your bed. I'm looking to DIY something similar very soon.

 

[Bedford0]

Hello,

I have no affiliation with this seller just an appreciation. There is a current eBay listing of 127722590639.

I designed my 'Covid project' bed system to initially revert easily back to van use, but I did later add a full length and width drawer. I used 40/40mm aluminium extrusion to construct the side frames. The frames are secured to the floor via the upgraded lashing cargo cup mounts. I attached quick release cross sectional beams and headboard to form the strong bed structure. With the hex trailer board slotted into place the height matched the T6 kombi seats in their folded position. I purchased a mattress off Amazon of which I fold and retain in place between the upright kombi seats and the headboard when not in use.
If you would rather buy than build, Van-King supply a steel version very similar in concept.

 

[CooseVW]

Cracking job that!!

That looks exactly like what I'm trying to build! Does the 18mm board offer enough support to span the gap? Or does it have wuite a lot of give in it?

 

[Bedford0]

Cracking job that!!

That looks exactly like what I'm trying to build! Does the 18mm board offer enough support to span the gap? Or does it have wuite a lot of give in it?

Originally I installed four aluminium cross members to support the two 18mm board sections, but later reduced this to 3 - the front, rear, and the mid board joining section. I routed the mattress ventilation holes in the board, of which made the board lighter and easier to remove due to their handle like shape. The mid section attachment design was changed to a simple drop in cross member design. The picture shows the plyboard prototype which was later replicated in the black phenolic trailer board.
Feel free to ask any further questions, I'm willing to help.

 

[CooseVW]

That is a cracking job that. I'm certainly going to give it a go.

I've messaged the eBay seller to see if he can make any lashing point cups without the counter bore and he said he can oblige. Should give me a nice flat surface to build up from.

Still undecided whether to go with the aluminium extrusion or go with the hex ply. Gunna have to have a measure up of the lashing point locations and have a play in CAD I think!

 

[Bedford0]

That is a cracking job that. I'm certainly going to give it a go.

I've messaged the eBay seller to see if he can make any lashing point cups without the counter bore and he said he can oblige. Should give me a nice flat surface to build up from.

Still undecided whether to go with the aluminium extrusion or go with the hex ply. Gunna have to have a measure up of the lashing point locations and have a play in CAD I think!

I noticed in the listing description that the supplier off eBay is now offering an aluminium version at £19, that would definitely be worth a consideration.
If you decide to use the aluminium extrusion, I could offer some advice on the various attachment and bracket solutions I used.

 

[CooseVW]

I think I'm going down the ply route!

I'll ask him about the aluminium version... might be a better option!