Using a power bank for led lighting

VanMan48

Member
T6 Pro
It maybe unorthodox but I can't stretch to a full leisure battery install, but I'm looking at ways of powering ceiling leds with a dimmer switch on a B pillar.

Wanted to see if anyone used a power bank in this way and if so where it lives in the van? We only camp for a couple of nights a year using lights minimally (currently have a Beach which is being sold as we need a LWB kombi) and a dometic fridge.

So hence why a leisure system would be overkill for what we do. Can power banks be charged whilst driving? Would be good to hear what other set ups exists, if any!

Thanks!
 
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I don’t (nor I’m sure will anyone else on here) think that it’s unorthodox. You’ve got to go with what works for you and what suits budget, use, aesthetics and so on.
I do have a leisure battery as I specced it from build on my PV. I then converted into a day van/site van with the ability should I choose for overnights. As such my LB runs the ceiling lights and fridge and I have a Fossibot 2400 PB that I’ve bolted to the top of the drawer top above the fridge. (With a cover I had made to protect from cold and prying eyes). This is because I didn’t want to have EHU.
So I use the PB for charging phones, laptop etc when on site. Also to run a 230 v coffee machine, Makita charger for tool batteries etc. I have a solar panel on my roof tent which I can then use to charge the PB if needed.
TBF I normally charge the PB at home and its lasts flipping ages. But I have made up a lead to a 16A EHU commando plug so if I do come across a site with EHU I can charge it up by running the lead in through the drivers window. But….my main vibe is single pitch off grid hence why the PB suits and why my opening comment.
I have a 750 w solar and for three days off grid that’s plenty to keep fridge running and top up LB.
PB probably only used about 25% but this is open ended and subjective as it depends on your use.
Hope that gives food for thought but the short answer is ‘think what suits you, then it’s not wrong!!’
BTW I have a Cymru Campervan set up with bench style storage either side and a fridge cabinet hence where the PB fits.
👍
Sorry hit post too early 😂🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ edit to say I use PB for LED string lights/fairy lights so there’s no reason why you can’t have a fly lead come out of the B pillar off your dimmer and just plug it into the usb port on the PB. It just requires you to spec the correct lights with respect to total load. 👌

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I don’t (nor I’m sure will anyone else on here) think that it’s unorthodox. You’ve got to go with what works for you and what suits budget, use, aesthetics and so on.
I do have a leisure battery as I specced it from build on my PV. I then converted into a day van/site van with the ability should I choose for overnights. As such my LB runs the ceiling lights and fridge and I have a Fossibot 2400 PB that I’ve bolted to the top of the drawer top above the fridge. (With a cover I had made to protect from cold and prying eyes). This is because I didn’t want to have EHU.
So I use the PB for charging phones, laptop etc when on site. Also to run a 230 v coffee machine, Makita charger for tool batteries etc. I have a solar panel on my roof tent which I can then use to charge the PB if needed.
TBF I normally charge the PB at home and its lasts flipping ages. But I have made up a lead to a 16A EHU commando plug so if I do come across a site with EHU I can charge it up by running the lead in through the drivers window. But….my main vibe is single pitch off grid hence why the PB suits and why my opening comment.
I have a 750 w solar and for three days off grid that’s plenty to keep fridge running and top up LB.
PB probably only used about 25% but this is open ended and subjective as it depends on your use.
Hope that gives food for thought but the short answer is ‘think what suits you, then it’s not wrong!!’
BTW I have a Cymru Campervan set up with bench style storage either side and a fridge cabinet hence where the PB fits.
👍
Sorry hit post too early 😂🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ edit to say I use PB for LED string lights/fairy lights so there’s no reason why you can’t have a fly lead come out of the B pillar off your dimmer and just plug it into the usb port on the PB. It just requires you to spec the correct lights with respect to total load. 👌

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Great advice! It absolutely is all about doing what works best for the individual
 
An option for location of a power bank (or portable power supply as they're sometimes known) is show in my build thread here:-


Not perfect, not massive but importantly as others have said:- it meets my requirements in terms of power requirement and budget!
 
I don’t (nor I’m sure will anyone else on here) think that it’s unorthodox. You’ve got to go with what works for you and what suits budget, use, aesthetics and so on.
I do have a leisure battery as I specced it from build on my PV. I then converted into a day van/site van with the ability should I choose for overnights. As such my LB runs the ceiling lights and fridge and I have a Fossibot 2400 PB that I’ve bolted to the top of the drawer top above the fridge. (With a cover I had made to protect from cold and prying eyes). This is because I didn’t want to have EHU.
So I use the PB for charging phones, laptop etc when on site. Also to run a 230 v coffee machine, Makita charger for tool batteries etc. I have a solar panel on my roof tent which I can then use to charge the PB if needed.
TBF I normally charge the PB at home and its lasts flipping ages. But I have made up a lead to a 16A EHU commando plug so if I do come across a site with EHU I can charge it up by running the lead in through the drivers window. But….my main vibe is single pitch off grid hence why the PB suits and why my opening comment.
I have a 750 w solar and for three days off grid that’s plenty to keep fridge running and top up LB.
PB probably only used about 25% but this is open ended and subjective as it depends on your use.
Hope that gives food for thought but the short answer is ‘think what suits you, then it’s not wrong!!’
BTW I have a Cymru Campervan set up with bench style storage either side and a fridge cabinet hence where the PB fits.
👍
Sorry hit post too early 😂🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ edit to say I use PB for LED string lights/fairy lights so there’s no reason why you can’t have a fly lead come out of the B pillar off your dimmer and just plug it into the usb port on the PB. It just requires you to spec the correct lights with respect to total load. 👌

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This is great to see thanks!
 
I've got a jackery powering 6 leds and the halo, plus phone/tablet charging. Fits nicely under the bench seat. I'll see if I have any pics
That would be great thanks. It's the wiring side (for the lights really) that I need to get my head around and putting some kind of switch on the pillar maybe.
 
I've been looking at a Bluetti and you can buy an extra lead that plugs into the cigarette lighter.

Only going to be a trickle charge but if you charge it at home before you go then it should be fine.

I've got a leisure setup but think one of these would be handy for running 240v stuff now and again as I don't want to install an inverter.
 
I based my entire modular build around using a portable PowerStation My First Build.......

The build has grown quite a bit since the original post but a 200w solar panel on the roof and a Bluetti Charger 1 fast charger take care of recharging it.
I just upgraded to a Bluetti Elite 300 from and AC70, not tested it out yet in anger but it should give us enough grunt to last at least 3 days off grid without any power anxiety.
It currently powers:

Autoterm 2Kw diesel heater & comfort controller.
Dometic TCX14 cooler 60w.
40w water pump.
24v LED system consisting of: 24v 90w driver, 4 x 1.2w spotlights, 5m 50w COB & 2 x 5w spotlights, 1 dimmer & 3 switches = 65w (ish)
12v LED 10w strip light.
2 x 20W gas cannister heaters.
Charging for all phones, laptop & cameras.

Yes there are a shitload of losses in the system compared to a standard split charge & leisure battery setup but I never needed to butcher my van or touch the original electrics in any way. And it all works a treat if you acknowledge & work within the systems limitations and I cant be any happier with it, plus it give us backup at home when the weather frequently cuts the power.
 
I based my entire modular build around using a portable PowerStation My First Build.......

The build has grown quite a bit since the original post but a 200w solar panel on the roof and a Bluetti Charger 1 fast charger take care of recharging it.
I just upgraded to a Bluetti Elite 300 from and AC70, not tested it out yet in anger but it should give us enough grunt to last at least 3 days off grid without any power anxiety.
It currently powers:

Autoterm 2Kw diesel heater & comfort controller.
Dometic TCX14 cooler 60w.
40w water pump.
24v LED system consisting of: 24v 90w driver, 4 x 1.2w spotlights, 5m 50w COB & 2 x 5w spotlights, 1 dimmer & 3 switches = 65w (ish)
12v LED 10w strip light.
2 x 20W gas cannister heaters.
Charging for all phones, laptop & cameras.

Yes there are a shitload of losses in the system compared to a standard split charge & leisure battery setup but I never needed to butcher my van or touch the original electrics in any way. And it all works a treat if you acknowledge & work within the systems limitations and I cant be any happier with it, plus it give us backup at home when the weather frequently cuts the power.
This sounds great, v similar to my needs. Would been keen to see how you do the cable management and how it all connects up. Something I'd like to do myself if its easy enough to fit the led lights etc.
 
Cable management was a bit of a ball ache, but I have it all pretty tidy now, basically all the connections are hidden in the pillar at the back of the sliding door and you just plug them into the PowerStation when you set up the van, its actually visible in the pics in the link above just look at the one with my original Bluetti EB55.

The new Bluetti Elite 300 is a godsend for my setup as its pretty much the only Compact PowerStation on the market (its not much bigger than my AC70 with only 700wh) that has a 12v 30amp outlet which just plugs directly into my fusebox which then distributes the 12v power to my devices, Heater, lights, cooler ect.
I used a 240v-12v converter before which worked great but it just took up more valuable space and added more losses into the system. the Elite 300 gets rid of all that and gives us 3000wh of battery backup.
 
My approach has been very similar, if this info is any good to you.

I wanted a very flexible van, and that included the electrics. I didn't have a LB.

So I got a Power Bank, and happy it could actually sit virtually anywhere in rear of kombi, til I deiced where it may reside permanently. (if ever).

I was lucky the previous owner had boxed in the wheel arches, which in itself is easy and not a bad thing, as you can store quite a bit of stuff in them.

With the one near the main sliding door I'm siting a 'control panel' (consists of 5 switches, a usb and a 12v lighter).

This will be supplied via a 'selector switch' from:
1) the Power bank.
2) the SB for the very odd occasion so not to drain it, supplied and fused under the passenger seat.
3) A LB should I install one. ie swop the feed at 2) above.

so I can simply select one supply and only one. Mainly the power bank

The control panel will feed LEDs: being internal lights, two external pointing lights, (fixed inside but will light up outside through the side door and tailgate)
And can be taken to any of the switches so I can put on all lights or a combination of them. The Power bank also has a light, so if its not fixed in then it can be easily to put where you need the light.

It will also feed a fan....again by a switch.
It will also feed the alpicool fridge via the 12v cig supply

Its all 12v, no inverter, as I can take that 240v feed direct from the power bank.

I've literally tucked all the cables out of sight, fixed all the lights and fan in place and I will connect it all up to the control panel etc when the weather allows me a half day outside.

I'm pretty sure it will all work fine. I checked over what each item will draw, and decided on the correct size wires, switches and fuses.

In addition I've used a stealth flap at the rear to incorporate an EHU feed in, should I be near or need a hook up. This purely feeds a hook up fused consumer unit (off the shelf item), which again is not fixed in position so can be placed anywhere, inside or outside the vehicle (weather permitting)

This way all my 'new' electrics are not necessarily linked into the vehicle electrics.

I hope this makes sense, if not please ask, and again if anyone thinks I've cocked up in anyway which isn't safe or advisable then please let me know before I get hair like Doc Brown.

cheers Ali

Eventually has a nice day so could finish the job off. Hope photos show, battery bank plugged into to control panel, selecting number 1 takes this feed, and allows fan, and lights to operate. Also shown stealth door which feeds into the wheel arch box on the opposite side, and allows the 'consumer unit' to operate.
inside 1.webpinside 1.webpinside 2.webpinside 3.webpinside 4.webpinside 5.webpinside 6.webpinside 7.webpinside 8.webpinside 9.webp
 
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That would be great thanks. It's the wiring side (for the lights really) that I need to get my head around and putting some kind of switch on the pillar maybe.
20260406_180813.webp
Not sure how clear it is. The box fits nicely under the bench, cut the plus off a 12c cigarette lighter extender and wired it all in using heat shrink crimps off amazon. Not that difficult really, plenty on youtube. Just need a bit of conduit on the wires to neaten it up
 
My approach has been very similar, if this info is any good to you.

I wanted a very flexible van, and that included the electrics. I didn't have a LB.

So I got a Power Bank, and happy it could actually sit virtually anywhere in rear of kombi, til I deiced where it may reside permanently. (if ever).

I was lucky the previous owner had boxed in the wheel arches, which in itself is easy and not a bad thing, as you can store quite a bit of stuff in them.

With the one near the main sliding door I'm siting a 'control panel' (consists of 5 switches, a usb and a 12v lighter).

This will be supplied via a 'selector switch' from:
1) the Power bank.
2) the SB for the very odd occasion so not to drain it, supplied and fused under the passenger seat.
3) A LB should I install one. ie swop the feed at 2) above.

so I can simply select one supply and only one. Mainly the power bank

The control panel will feed LEDs: being internal lights, two external pointing lights, (fixed inside but will light up outside through the side door and tailgate)
And can be taken to any of the switches so I can put on all lights or a combination of them. The Power bank also has a light, so if its not fixed in then it can be easily to put where you need the light.

It will also feed a fan....again by a switch.
It will also feed the alpicool fridge via the 12v cig supply

Its all 12v, no inverter, as I can take that 240v feed direct from the power bank.

I've literally tucked all the cables out of sight, fixed all the lights and fan in place and I will connect it all up to the control panel etc when the weather allows me a half day outside.

I'm pretty sure it will all work fine. I checked over what each item will draw, and decided on the correct size wires, switches and fuses.

In addition I've used a stealth flap at the rear to incorporate an EHU feed in, should I be near or need a hook up. This purely feeds a hook up fused consumer unit (off the shelf item), which again is not fixed in position so can be placed anywhere, inside or outside the vehicle (weather permitting)

This way all my 'new' electrics are not necessarily linked into the vehicle electrics.

I hope this makes sense, if not please ask, and again if anyone thinks I've cocked up in anyway which isn't safe or advisable then please let me know before I get hair like Doc Brown.

cheers Ali

Eventually has a nice day so could finish the job off. Hope photos show, battery bank plugged into to control panel, selecting number 1 takes this feed, and allows fan, and lights to operate. Also shown stealth door which feeds into the wheel arch box on the opposite side, and allows the 'consumer unit' to operate.
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This is exactly what I’m looking to do, literally need a Ecoflow to power a fridge and charge devices. I am looking at the alternator charger. Regarding hook up, I often use a the same consumer unit above plug into site and run fridge outside in my event shelter/base tent for the trip on longer breaks.

If I don’t keep the van it can all come with me, and also if I need portable power I’ve got the Ecoflow to do as I wish.
I am leaning towards the delta 2, I just want to see if it will power a Alpicool for a few days without driving/charging it. 👍
 
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