mortismellivora
Member
Morning everyone, long time lurker, and you guys have saved me many times, I've decided to join and post (and do the vip member ship if I can get PayPal to sort it's life out)
I know it's not a t6, so hopefully I don't get the ban hammer thrown at me, however you guys seem very familiar with this Cr engine, and the crafter forum didn't have anything remotely close.
Van - 2018 LWB trendline
2.0tdi DAUA fwd
235k miles.
History -
Van dropped a valve on cylinder 4 at the start of 2024.
Owner sold it to the guy I got it from,
He purchased a 90k mile engine from a late 2019 man tge. Same engine code.
Fitted the engine, would crank but no start.
He tells me the following.
-Injectors rested, 1 replaced.
-ecu tested. Passed.
-clone ecu from ecu testing, still the same.
-genuine rocker cover, intake manifold, crank sensor /pickup and seal, genuine clutch kit, genuine glow plugs with pressure sensor plus lots more (someone fired the parts cannon at this)
I picked this up Saturday just gone and have done the following.
For reference, I own and operate a shop, building vw /Audi race cars. 18 years of Vw Audi diag work wiring and repairs.
-dayco Cambelt kit (timed with tools and checked)
-Injectors tested, no1 failed on spray pattern, rebuild by bosch service center.
-both ends of HPFP checked, no swarf.
-new fuel filter
-bled using the VCDS pump activation, and then cranking with Injectors unplugged until fuel at each injector, followed by 3x sessions of LPFP bleed procedures.
-strong flow at filter, too the HPFP and return line clear.
-vcds shows 700kpa fuel pressure with lift pump.
-replaced Lin bus 1 wire to alternator.
-replaced battery and coded.
Will run on easy start.
Now. The fault I promise you've never seen!
Whilst I had the rocker cover off, did the timing etc, I measured from the falling edge of the cam trigger wheel to the inside of the camshaft module, after being given a dimension of 90.2mm with the module correctly timed. My lobes looked correct, but my dimension to the trigger wheel was 104mm.
I then found a pound coin, sat on one of the cylinder head bolts on the top left of the engine (pics attached)
Did some more buggery, still wouldn't run.
I spent some time thinking, followed @mmi guide on block maps etc, fuel pressure immediately over 270bar, 0.5 on start of injection , and varying between 1509 and 2509us on injection time.
Still wouldn't run, it's got fuel, it's calling for Injectors, why won't it fire?!
So, last ditch attempt, I removed the camsensor, got the leading edge of the trigger wheel in a good place, and then knocked it round 10 degrees with a brass punch
Turn the key, fired straight up,tan for 10 seconds and stalled.
We think, the pound coin had got wedged under the wheel and moved it on the cam as they are only press fit.
Spent some more time adjusting the position, got it to run again for a good 30 seconds. I switched it off to disconnect the charger and move tools, then it wouldn't restart.
I'm going to do some more data logging today, with full maps and post them up with an auto scan, but I thought I'd start the post off with the background.
Some other interesting news.
-when trying to do basic settings with the snap on scanner, I get a "battery voltage 8.52v please connect a charger" even though. Top of the diag machine shows 13.9.
VCDS does not give me this error, and I cannot find any measuring block for term30 or 15 where battery voltage is below 12.5. Might be a red herring, but worth mentioning.
Last night I got a p034100 camshaft range performance.
It has a new, genuine sensor in it, but I have a febi one coming today.
On camshaft phase, it's constantly at 0.0 degrees. Never changes, not seen it move once. Both before and after I did the timing belt.
I've attached the video, excuse the awful quality, it was dark, raining and I'd parked it across from the shop so it was out the way and then couldn't move it on my own.
The dpf is disconnected, hence the smoke.
Autoscan, block maps and data to follow once the battery is fully charged.
Looking forward to seeing what you guys make of this one.




I know it's not a t6, so hopefully I don't get the ban hammer thrown at me, however you guys seem very familiar with this Cr engine, and the crafter forum didn't have anything remotely close.
Van - 2018 LWB trendline
2.0tdi DAUA fwd
235k miles.
History -
Van dropped a valve on cylinder 4 at the start of 2024.
Owner sold it to the guy I got it from,
He purchased a 90k mile engine from a late 2019 man tge. Same engine code.
Fitted the engine, would crank but no start.
He tells me the following.
-Injectors rested, 1 replaced.
-ecu tested. Passed.
-clone ecu from ecu testing, still the same.
-genuine rocker cover, intake manifold, crank sensor /pickup and seal, genuine clutch kit, genuine glow plugs with pressure sensor plus lots more (someone fired the parts cannon at this)
I picked this up Saturday just gone and have done the following.
For reference, I own and operate a shop, building vw /Audi race cars. 18 years of Vw Audi diag work wiring and repairs.
-dayco Cambelt kit (timed with tools and checked)
-Injectors tested, no1 failed on spray pattern, rebuild by bosch service center.
-both ends of HPFP checked, no swarf.
-new fuel filter
-bled using the VCDS pump activation, and then cranking with Injectors unplugged until fuel at each injector, followed by 3x sessions of LPFP bleed procedures.
-strong flow at filter, too the HPFP and return line clear.
-vcds shows 700kpa fuel pressure with lift pump.
-replaced Lin bus 1 wire to alternator.
-replaced battery and coded.
Will run on easy start.
Now. The fault I promise you've never seen!
Whilst I had the rocker cover off, did the timing etc, I measured from the falling edge of the cam trigger wheel to the inside of the camshaft module, after being given a dimension of 90.2mm with the module correctly timed. My lobes looked correct, but my dimension to the trigger wheel was 104mm.
I then found a pound coin, sat on one of the cylinder head bolts on the top left of the engine (pics attached)
Did some more buggery, still wouldn't run.
I spent some time thinking, followed @mmi guide on block maps etc, fuel pressure immediately over 270bar, 0.5 on start of injection , and varying between 1509 and 2509us on injection time.
Still wouldn't run, it's got fuel, it's calling for Injectors, why won't it fire?!
So, last ditch attempt, I removed the camsensor, got the leading edge of the trigger wheel in a good place, and then knocked it round 10 degrees with a brass punch
Turn the key, fired straight up,tan for 10 seconds and stalled.
We think, the pound coin had got wedged under the wheel and moved it on the cam as they are only press fit.
Spent some more time adjusting the position, got it to run again for a good 30 seconds. I switched it off to disconnect the charger and move tools, then it wouldn't restart.
I'm going to do some more data logging today, with full maps and post them up with an auto scan, but I thought I'd start the post off with the background.
Some other interesting news.
-when trying to do basic settings with the snap on scanner, I get a "battery voltage 8.52v please connect a charger" even though. Top of the diag machine shows 13.9.
VCDS does not give me this error, and I cannot find any measuring block for term30 or 15 where battery voltage is below 12.5. Might be a red herring, but worth mentioning.
Last night I got a p034100 camshaft range performance.
It has a new, genuine sensor in it, but I have a febi one coming today.
On camshaft phase, it's constantly at 0.0 degrees. Never changes, not seen it move once. Both before and after I did the timing belt.
I've attached the video, excuse the awful quality, it was dark, raining and I'd parked it across from the shop so it was out the way and then couldn't move it on my own.
The dpf is disconnected, hence the smoke.
Autoscan, block maps and data to follow once the battery is fully charged.
Looking forward to seeing what you guys make of this one.



















