Swap out VSR for DC-DC charger

Smif81

New Member
Hi all, first post here and just looking for some advice before I get stuck into pulling my van apart. Done some research already, just need someone to tell me if I’m doing it all wrong or some reassurance from someone who has already done it.

I have a T6 conversion by Redline, and recently started to learn the VSR under the seat is not ideal and I need a DC-DC charger to get the most out of the leisure battery. The leisure battery is lead-acid.

Been through several posts on here so have already come to the conclusion it needs to be replaced, and the Ctek D250SE looks to be a popular option. I understand the Ctek would be a good choice for adding solar down the line too.

I have a Sargent EC160 so concerns me that may complicate matters. From the wiring diagram supplied the VSR runs a signal to the EC160 to enable the split charger of the Sargent. However, I checked the back of the EC160 and there is no cable running to this connection point so I assume the VSR must connect straight to the battery, and not via the split charger in the EC160 so the wiring diagram attached is not 100% accurate.
IMG_20210205_000412.jpgIMG_20210208_155540.jpg

My assumption would be the Ctek connects directly to the leisure battery in place of the VSR. The EC160 is isolated by a signal cable so will need to maintain that going forwards (white one in the picture I believe, not sure yet of the source). And I need to maintain the 240V charger to the leisure battery when on EHU.

As the VSR is not running to the EC160 as the circuit diagram suggests then this may not be too difficult. Would be handy if someone else has already done this with a similar setup?

Added couple of pictures, best I could do without taking the seat out, but may do that next weekend to get a better idea of what is happening.

I think these are the outstanding questions I need to answer initially if anyone has any advice or I need to start pulling the van apart…
  1. The VSR appears to have 5 cables, and 3 is standard so need to identify the purpose of the other 2?
  2. Where is the source for the EMC, is it likely this will be one of the cables from the VSR?
  3. Once I understand the actual wiring under the seat then the Ctek output to the battery would simply replace the VSR output to the battery?
  4. The Ctek looks suitable, or should I be looking at something else similar? For now, I am sticking with the current leisure battery and looking to add100W solar later in the year.
Is there anything else I need to be aware of at this stage? Think I need to pull the seat out to get a better view so will do that this weekend.

Any advice or tips appreciated
IMG_20210207_155020.jpgIMG_20210207_160207.jpg
 
Personally I’d ditch the vsr as soon as possible and if you think you’ll want solar go for the ctek if not to start with I’d go for the Victron Orion that’s my personal view and sure someone will correct me
 
Hi @Smif81, I have the same setup in a redline conversion, with solar, but I'm trying desperately to ignore this problem until I have the cash to get the whole system replaced.
There are not too many ec160's here from my research so not sure what is so abhorrent about them.
You also got more of a diagram than I did!
 
Ian have you been through the archives on here only I've reread a few threads despite not actually doing anything about the problem... actually along with @Sabre above we're starting to form a bit of a cluster of worried but can't be arsed... anyway this thread with input from @travelvolts is reasonably informative, haven't gone back to the start of the thread as there was a bit of "hand bags" on one and can't stand the sight of blind impotent fury...
 
@Sabre I've learnt on here the EC160 is not well-loved, but serves a purpose and good enough for me at the moment, just the VSR need to sort first I think :). The diagram is only good if it was followed, think I need to pull some bits apart and see exactly what is going on. I'll share anything I find that might be useful. I'll go back through that thread @Stay Frosty and ignore the less useful posts. Lots of useful stuff on here, just need to find the relevant bits that help :)
 
I have a CTEK 250 that I am willing to sell as soon as I have fitted my new Renogy.

PM me if this is of any interest to anyone, currently will be off in march time ready for spring.
 
Hi Drew thank you for your reply. I am still interested in it, could you just answer a few more questions.
How old is it approximately?
Can you tell me which 250 model it actually is?
As in D250S, D250SA, D250SE etc
Is it also a solar panel regulator?
Thanks
John
 
Thread reactivation time!
Thought I had killed my second lead acid battery on my Redline conversion but it's only mortally wounded so pulled it out ready to start (finally) installing a Renogy dc50 B2B/mppt charger, Victron smart charger and Roamer seat battery.
Obviously not much of this will fit under the fixed drivers seat however if I leave the Victron 30A charger at the back of the van in the wardrobe with the Sargent panel then the 13.8v dc leads going forward will be like welding cable, I'm thinking the Victron wants to be by the seat battery?
I would like to keep the Sargent unit as it's a tidy way of feeding the 12 volt circuits and the single 230V AC twin skt but figure I've got to disconnect or at least modify the wiring to remove any chance of the Sargent's built in charger getting into the leisure battery via the starter battery when on hook up... probably just do away with the Sargent charger altogether and carry jump leads on the off chance the starter battery cark's?
One more thought and where do I pick up an engine running/ accessory trigger wire from for the dc50 unit?
Cheers and yes I know I'm overthinking this but the van is so tidy and I don't want it to look like one of my street bass car installs from 20 odd years ago.
 
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