Greetings, I'm a fairly new member here, bought the 2017 T6 van about 10 months ago.
It already by then had a small leak in the steering, but so small that I just ignored it and topped up the fuid every 4 months or so. But suddenly, on a trip to Finland, it developed a major leak, and now I couldn't ignore it anymore.
Checked with the local VAG service center...cost would be minimum 23500 SEK (Swedish kronas, nearly 1900 GBP). Checked with some small local car service spots, they would do it cheaper but had no time until 3 weeks later.
So I had to bite the bullet and do it myself! Since I'm retired, I decided to take it easy. I have lots of old traditional tools, but no car lift so at the age of 71 I spent my time on the concrete floor.
To summarize, it wasn't too bad to replace the steering rack, in fact maybe a little easier than expected.
I had to buy a new half inch socket wrench of the type where the handle can be tilted down. This was necessary for removing the top bolt of the engine support that stands over the steering rack like an Eifffel tower. The engine support can the then easily be removed and reinstalled by pumping up the rear of the gear box a little.
To remove the hydraulic pipes I had to design a special tool, see the picture of the 17 mm wrench with a nut welded on. The steering coupler was a bit tricky with the rubber boot trying to slide down over the bolt. By installing a pin of any kind above the bolt the rubber boot can be stopped from sliding down, and you get easier access to the bolt.
Then just loosen the inner tie rods, the outer can stay in place. And loosen the drop links and let the sway bar tilt down.
Now it's actually possible to wiggle the steering rack out on the driver's side.
It already by then had a small leak in the steering, but so small that I just ignored it and topped up the fuid every 4 months or so. But suddenly, on a trip to Finland, it developed a major leak, and now I couldn't ignore it anymore.
Checked with the local VAG service center...cost would be minimum 23500 SEK (Swedish kronas, nearly 1900 GBP). Checked with some small local car service spots, they would do it cheaper but had no time until 3 weeks later.
So I had to bite the bullet and do it myself! Since I'm retired, I decided to take it easy. I have lots of old traditional tools, but no car lift so at the age of 71 I spent my time on the concrete floor.
To summarize, it wasn't too bad to replace the steering rack, in fact maybe a little easier than expected.
I had to buy a new half inch socket wrench of the type where the handle can be tilted down. This was necessary for removing the top bolt of the engine support that stands over the steering rack like an Eifffel tower. The engine support can the then easily be removed and reinstalled by pumping up the rear of the gear box a little.
To remove the hydraulic pipes I had to design a special tool, see the picture of the 17 mm wrench with a nut welded on. The steering coupler was a bit tricky with the rubber boot trying to slide down over the bolt. By installing a pin of any kind above the bolt the rubber boot can be stopped from sliding down, and you get easier access to the bolt.
Then just loosen the inner tie rods, the outer can stay in place. And loosen the drop links and let the sway bar tilt down.
Now it's actually possible to wiggle the steering rack out on the driver's side.
