You need to use a cable that's in rated for the 100w though..
That usb-SL cable I linked above works, as does the 165w 12v-USBc adapter.
That usb-SL cable I linked above works, as does the 165w 12v-USBc adapter.
STARLINK (Satellite Internet and WIFI) -- How I Done It --
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
Ready for bed having watched that and about Starshield! Fascinating though!
DISHMONKEY
New Member
Unfortunately the Kessler Syndrome may screw us, not just the convienience of connectivity while travelling, just think of all the financial data backbone even though most is carried on fibre, air travel hazards... the doom mongering is actually based on fact... not just in movies. Search it, find it, then make a brew or pour a stiff one and forget about it 
I wont put a link, there is plenty out there. Meanwhile ~ *cough ~ very happy with my Starlink. - NB: I am aware orbital layers exist, i.e it's like an onion, so geo-stationary are further out than Starlink & Amazon constellations.
I wont put a link, there is plenty out there. Meanwhile ~ *cough ~ very happy with my Starlink. - NB: I am aware orbital layers exist, i.e it's like an onion, so geo-stationary are further out than Starlink & Amazon constellations.
People like photos! I certainly would like to see how it's placed up there!
This got me wondering if it would work through the ply bed board as well.
Amazon LEO still not here, although another tranche of satellites was launched yesterday.
Interesting news though. Business filings in the US strongly suggest Amazon plans to open up LEO to 3rd party receivers and/or antennae. I guess one would pay the subs and get a decoder module or dongle and then plug that into whatever physical kit one chooses.
That opens to door to potential for lower hardware prices and a choice of styles and sizes. With any luck someone might develop a Transporter or pop-top specific antenna, or something that requires less integration than Starlink.
Interesting news though. Business filings in the US strongly suggest Amazon plans to open up LEO to 3rd party receivers and/or antennae. I guess one would pay the subs and get a decoder module or dongle and then plug that into whatever physical kit one chooses.
That opens to door to potential for lower hardware prices and a choice of styles and sizes. With any luck someone might develop a Transporter or pop-top specific antenna, or something that requires less integration than Starlink.
I will post photos later today.
That’s good news. We don’t use our roof bed so I’m thinking of just fixing it up there. I’m assuming solar panels could cause a bigger issue though so probably need to place it somewhere it’ll miss them?
Looks like the dish uses KU band radio lines nk.
via Google FOO:
*****
Starlink primarily operates using Ku-band (12–18 GHz) for user terminal communications and Ka-band (27–40 GHz) for gateway links,
*****
alongside E-band (71-86 GHz) and V-band for higher capacity. User terminals typically use 10.7–12.7 GHz for downlinks and 14.0–14.5 GHz for uplinks, with newer V3 satellites introducing higher Ka/V-band frequencies for increased throughput.
Key Frequency Band Breakdown
Ku-Band (10.7–14.5 GHz): Used for daily, high-speed user internet connectivity. Downlink (satellite-to-user) is 10.7–12.7 GHz, and Uplink (user-to-satellite) is 14.0–14.5 GHz.
Ka-Band (17.8–30 GHz): Primarily used for high-capacity gateway-to-satellite communications.
E-Band (71–86 GHz): Utilized for high-speed satellite backhaul.
V-Band (40–75 GHz): Employed for increased, higher-speed data throughput, particularly on newer V3 satellites.
Optical Intersatellite Links: Satellites use laser links (approx. 1550 nm) for direct, orbital communication, bypassing ground stations.
Operational Context
User Terminals (Dishy): Use phased-array antennas to connect via Ku-band, often requiring clear line-of-sight, which can be affected by heavy rain, especially with higher bands.
Gateways: Connect the satellites to the internet backbone via high-frequency Ka and E-bands.
Hardware Evolution: V2 Mini satellites use Ku and Ka-band, while V3 introduces V-band and enhanced E-band for higher capacity.
Wi-Fi Router: The in-home router uses standard 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz, and 6 GHz fequencies.
...
via Google FOO:
*****
Starlink primarily operates using Ku-band (12–18 GHz) for user terminal communications and Ka-band (27–40 GHz) for gateway links,
*****
alongside E-band (71-86 GHz) and V-band for higher capacity. User terminals typically use 10.7–12.7 GHz for downlinks and 14.0–14.5 GHz for uplinks, with newer V3 satellites introducing higher Ka/V-band frequencies for increased throughput.
Key Frequency Band Breakdown
Ku-Band (10.7–14.5 GHz): Used for daily, high-speed user internet connectivity. Downlink (satellite-to-user) is 10.7–12.7 GHz, and Uplink (user-to-satellite) is 14.0–14.5 GHz.
Ka-Band (17.8–30 GHz): Primarily used for high-capacity gateway-to-satellite communications.
E-Band (71–86 GHz): Utilized for high-speed satellite backhaul.
V-Band (40–75 GHz): Employed for increased, higher-speed data throughput, particularly on newer V3 satellites.
Optical Intersatellite Links: Satellites use laser links (approx. 1550 nm) for direct, orbital communication, bypassing ground stations.
Operational Context
User Terminals (Dishy): Use phased-array antennas to connect via Ku-band, often requiring clear line-of-sight, which can be affected by heavy rain, especially with higher bands.
Gateways: Connect the satellites to the internet backbone via high-frequency Ka and E-bands.
Hardware Evolution: V2 Mini satellites use Ku and Ka-band, while V3 introduces V-band and enhanced E-band for higher capacity.
Wi-Fi Router: The in-home router uses standard 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz, and 6 GHz fequencies.
...
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Google AL:
Ku-band signals (approx. 10–14 GHz) generally do not pass through wood well, especially if it is wet, green, or thick. Because Ku-band has a short wavelength (roughly 2–3 cm), it is highly susceptible to absorption and scattering by moisture, which is found in living trees, leaves, and damp wood.
Here is a breakdown of how Ku-band interacts with wood:
Wet/Live Wood (High Obstruction): Water molecules in tree foliage and branches act as a barrier, absorbing the signal and causing heavy attenuation. This is why dense, wooded areas often block satellite internet signals like Starlink.
Dry Wood (Moderate Obstruction): Dry, thin wood (like thin plywood or shingles) may allow some signal to pass through, but with significant attenuation. It is not ideal, as even dry wood acts as an obstacle to these high-frequency signals.
Density Matters: Thick wood, wet wood, or dense foliage will likely block the signal entirely.
Practical Application (Satellite TV/Internet): For systems using Ku-band, it is strongly recommended to have a completely clear line of sight, as trees in the signal path cause intermittent service or complete signal loss.
In short, for reliable connectivity, you cannot expect Ku-band to penetrate trees or wooden structures effectively.
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so the signal wont go through trees and folage, as its wet and contains liquid. ( which is what i experiend when camping, trees and bushes show as blocking signal)
but it will go through dry wood/fiberglass ( ie poptop) with some signal attenuation.
it will not go through solid metal - van roof.
@Dellmassive I guess fibreglass is less of an issue due to its composition?
Also had another question for you. Wondering why you went down the 12v adapter route vs the other option you mentioned, given that you’re wiring into the battery anyway? I’m thinking for me I have a 12v supply in the roof bed area and maybe installing one of these with a switch (don’t think I’ll leave it on all the time!) might be a cleaner option. But you must have had your reasons not doing this?
Also had another question for you. Wondering why you went down the 12v adapter route vs the other option you mentioned, given that you’re wiring into the battery anyway? I’m thinking for me I have a 12v supply in the roof bed area and maybe installing one of these with a switch (don’t think I’ll leave it on all the time!) might be a cleaner option. But you must have had your reasons not doing this?
I've got most, if not all the power options that are available.
the main one i use is the:
12v leisure battery -> fused Anderson quick connect to 12v socket -> 12v USB-C PD plug -> USB-C PD to SL plug cable.
or
12v leisure battery -> fused Anderson quick connect to 12v socket -> 12v-19v SL PSU -> Original SL to SL plug cable.
or - New for this season.
The new Battery V2 unit . . . which @Mick and @eli have more run time on. . .
Are those the same things linked in your first post or new options? If new ones would you mind sharing the links please? Ta
I was also looking at this one. Any thoughts?
Starlink™ Mini 12v DC Power kit
#html-body [data-pb-style=B046OFI]{justify-content:flex-start;display:flex;flex-direction:column;background-position:left top;background-size:cover;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-attachment:scroll}The DC MINI Kit allows you to power the Starlink™ MINI directly from a 12V DC system...
starvmount.com
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Photo's
My setup
I bought this thing to "up" the power from 12volts - Simple install where the old light style socket was.
Mini dish cable puts in and stays in no matter what I'm driving over.
Ethernet socket the runs to rear of campervan where I have the router fitted.
The dish slides in between roof and bed (it also fits right in the middle so hidden away, but I find sticking here is fine and does not move with roof secured in place.
Close up. The insert (Black) locks cables in place and allow me to stick a mag mount on when parked up if needs be outside.
Example of mag mount on bonnet. 95% of the time it stays inside in roof when poptop is open. Avoids anyone seeing I have Starlink.
Mag mount on rear if needs be.....
The plate and mag mount.
Mag mount fitted.... Really strong has never fallen off yet.
