Newbie t5.1 Caravelle owner and I could do with some advice how to proceed...

[FerrisBFW]

Afternoon,

I joined this forum last week on the day I purchased my new/old van, and I could do with some help and input on where I go next.

So here goes its a 2014 BiTDI DSG 4motion Caravelle. One business owner from new - 130k. A flower importing business from Holland and based in SW London. Its seems an honest well used and okay looked after unit. The engine seems okay. Its got a light covering of dust and a few small bumps. Inside is pretty good and has cleaned up well.

So I am okay with engines, etc, (well I thought I was). I am very mechanically minded and have had a previous life in the motor industry a long time ago. The engine isnt smoking at start up, when hoofing it down the road, cold or hot. Oil & Coolant looks fine, last changed 9 months ago/5k ago a big service inc timing belt and pump was done, DSG had a filter and oil done, and some suspension items etc. So I have not had an old car for a long time. In fact the in recent times my only 'old car' was a L200 that I had owned since new for 13 years so it doesnt really count. Owning an old car is quite scary but fun at the same time.

Lots of history, 5k ago a big service inc timing belt and pump was done, DSG had a filter and oil done, and some suspension items etc. Later this week I am driving a neighbours almost identical spec Transporter camper with 100k less on the clock to get a comparison on how it could of felt v how bad mine is. I am aware of the big issues with these engine, and my EGR is an original A, but the engine seems okay?

So now what?

• I was thinking an extended engine, DSG and 4 Motion service, inc smoke and road test with Onyx Performance
• Then Onxy offer a turn off the EGR in the management system, I guess my concern is 1. with 130k miles is it too late maybe, and 2. is 'turning it off enough, or should I replace for a new unit and then use a Tafmet unit and blank off the unit?
  
  
• I did a compression test with a cheaper Sealey compression tester which I had to modify to fit so less than ideal. I was getting 250'ish psi across all, no1 was a little down but the battery was running out of umph. I guess I really need to get this completed correctly. I am guessing 250 is not great, but the engine seems to run sweet.

Part of me is thinking, get everything serviced and just get on with driving it. Happy to do some preventive work though. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Ferris

 

[airhoguk]

Get an oil test, that will tell you if there are particles in the oil which will indicate whether there is something amiss. Miller oils amongst others do kits to collect a sample and send off

 

[FerrisBFW]

Get an oil test, that will tell you if there are particles in the oil which will indicate whether there is something amiss. Miller oils amongst others do kits to collect a sample and send off

I forgot to mention I have ordered one already. Thanks though.

 

[Rob1978]

Afternoon,

I joined this forum last week on the day I purchased my new/old van, and I could do with some help and input on where I go next.

So here goes its a 2014 BiTDI DSG 4motion Caravelle. One business owner from new - 130k. A flower importing business from Holland and based in SW London. Its seems an honest well used and okay looked after unit. The engine seems okay. Its got a light covering of dust and a few small bumps. Inside is pretty good and has cleaned up well.

So I am okay with engines, etc, (well I thought I was). I am very mechanically minded and have had a previous life in the motor industry a long time ago. The engine isnt smoking at start up, when hoofing it down the road, cold or hot. Oil & Coolant looks fine, last changed 9 months ago/5k ago a big service inc timing belt and pump was done, DSG had a filter and oil done, and some suspension items etc. So I have not had an old car for a long time. In fact the in recent times my only 'old car' was a L200 that I had owned since new for 13 years so it doesnt really count. Owning an old car is quite scary but fun at the same time.

Lots of history, 5k ago a big service inc timing belt and pump was done, DSG had a filter and oil done, and some suspension items etc. Later this week I am driving a neighbours almost identical spec Transporter camper with 100k less on the clock to get a comparison on how it could of felt v how bad mine is. I am aware of the big issues with these engine, and my EGR is an original A, but the engine seems okay?

So now what?

• I was thinking an extended engine, DSG and 4 Motion service, inc smoke and road test with Onyx Performance
• Then Onxy offer a turn off the EGR in the management system, I guess my concern is 1. with 130k miles is it too late maybe, and 2. is 'turning it off enough, or should I replace for a new unit and then use a Tafmet unit and blank off the unit?
  
  
• I did a compression test with a cheaper Sealey compression tester which I had to modify to fit so less than ideal. I was getting 250'ish psi across all, no1 was a little down but the battery was running out of umph. I guess I really need to get this completed correctly. I am guessing 250 is not great, but the engine seems to run sweet.

Part of me is thinking, get everything serviced and just get on with driving it. Happy to do some preventive work though. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Ferris

I would fit a tafmet and blanks, then oil change. It takes away the issue for very little cost.

 

[FerrisBFW]

update so far:
Oil analysis wasnt terrible with what looked like old oil. Quick oil and filter change and then later that week off to Retro Resus in Taunton

Oil and filter change again, DSG and 4Motion service and a once over. Turns out its a good straight van, but DPF was completely blocked, plus some suspension bushes and thats it. Engine is a 50/50

Last week we did the DPF and now are watching the oil and see how bad it is. So far it looks like its done 250mls in 1000 miles since the oil change and 650 miles since the DPF went in. I will top up and watch again for the next 1000-2000 and do another oil analysis. So I am thinking for a 135k engine not too bad so far? Belt and Braces would be do a D cooler, block and map out, which I have been told is the best way. Plus if I ever want to sell it in the future a D cooler would be good. Still thinking 50/50...

If I blocked the D cooler and mapped out at least if I need a new engine at some point the cooler is still usable, so not a waste of cash
Just got back from a 500 miles weekend to Wales and back, half way home it went into limp mode, long story short we drove home taking it easy and now I have found a hole in the pipe to the engine from the Intercooler, it had been rubbing on the block. I think its part number 7E0145980, any thoughts if this is the right one for the BiTDI CFCA?

 

[B.different]

Don't know about the pipe, but regarding your oil usage I found if I run it on quantum oils it burned off at an alarming rate. I run millers oils now and it hardly burns any. And also there injector cleaner is brill. Getting between 4-7mpg more and it feels more sprightly.

 

[DaveD]

I think you're already doing everything that I'd suggest. Any vehicle is a good buy if A/ It's what you want and, B/ The price reflects the miles, age, condition and service history.
I can't get my head around the notion that you shouldn't buy a vehicle with over 100K on the clock - I've owned and driven vehicles with 200K on the clock and they had a lot more to give, at the right price and with a bit of careful servicing.
Replace the intercooler pipe, fix the cause of the problem (rubbing) and you should enjoy years of using that van without the big price tag of a lower mileage equivalent.

 

[Limalex]

Something you should keep in mind regarding the CFCA. The cause of the oil consumption issue is very high oil temperature. The EGR cooler is a horrible design. I suggest you do the oil cooler mod so further problems can be held back a bit.

I had my BITDI long time ago, but if I remember correctly without a mod the oil temperature was near 125 Celsius sometimes. With a mod you can keep it around the 100 Celsius constantly even with heavy use. In my case the oil rings ware melted and the particles scratched the bores, at that point I was using a liter oil over 600 miles. The EGR cooler also starts to melt due to high temperature even the latest D marked.

 

[FerrisBFW]

Interesting. I have been wondering about oil temperature. I watch it like a hawk. Last big run I drove, keeping oil temp hovering at 100.

Which cooler did you fit?

Last week Retro Resus blanked and mapped the EGR out. Interestingly fuel consumption jumped 5mpg better to 35 mpg coming home.

Front end is now in bits and I am rebuilding.

Next…. I noticed 2x faults coming up for glow plugs so thought I would change those next week.

Bought a mint used drive away awning and end of the month we are off to Devon in it.

Then…. Get the wheels powder coated as a cheap fix. Getting there

 

[Limalex]

Interesting. I have been wondering about oil temperature. I watch it like a hawk. Last big run I drove, keeping oil temp hovering at 100.

Which cooler did you fit?

Last week Retro Resus blanked and mapped the EGR out. Interestingly fuel consumption jumped 5mpg better to 35 mpg coming home.

Front end is now in bits and I am rebuilding.

Next…. I noticed 2x faults coming up for glow plugs so thought I would change those next week.

Bought a mint used drive away awning and end of the month we are off to Devon in it.

Then…. Get the wheels powder coated as a cheap fix. Getting there

Great, If it mapped out it is fine, 100 Celsius is ok but above 108 problems starts.

The other solution what many Bitdi owners did is the oil cooler mod. You simply fit the 140 bhp model oil cooler. Need a little bit of plumbing but other than that it is a straight swap. Changing the oil filter much easier too.

I sold mine but really miss it. So I am considering to start a project end build a petrol 2.5 tfsi.

Once you got the motor there is always reason to spend on it it is a never ending love and constant fight with the wife

 

[FerrisBFW]

Great, If it mapped out it is fine, 100 Celsius is ok but above 108 problems starts.

The other solution what many Bitdi owners did is the oil cooler mod. You simply fit the 140 bhp model oil cooler. Need a little bit of plumbing but other than that it is a straight swap. Changing the oil filter much easier too.

I sold mine but really miss it. So I am considering to start a project end build a petrol 2.5 tfsi.

Once you got the motor there is always reason to spend on it it is a never ending love and constant fight with the wife

what is the 140 engine code, do you know? Darkside cfca kit is £300'ish. Lets see how cheap I can do this

 

[FerrisBFW]

Great, If it mapped out it is fine, 100 Celsius is ok but above 108 problems starts.

The other solution what many Bitdi owners did is the oil cooler mod. You simply fit the 140 bhp model oil cooler. Need a little bit of plumbing but other than that it is a straight swap. Changing the oil filter much easier too.

I sold mine but really miss it. So I am considering to start a project end build a petrol 2.5 tfsi.

Once you got the motor there is always reason to spend on it it is a never ending love and constant fight with the wife

Ha! "Once you got the motor there is always reason to spend on it it is a never ending love and constant fight with the wife " so true.... I quite fancy a T3 Syncro. She doesnt get ANY of this