Manky Tank? - Fresh Water Tanks on a CamperVan - How I Done It -

This pool has been out for two days.....

Filled with fresh mains water, for the dog to play with...been nice and warm summer weather.

Added a little USB pump for a water feature.

Went to turn it on today and it's all slimy...kinda see through slimy.

And has some greeny good too at the bottom.
Assuming this is the Biofilm we are talking about.?

The dog seems to like it though, he's still drinking it..... :mexican wave:

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This pool has been out for two days.....

Filled with fresh mains water, for the dog to play with...been nice and warm summer weather.

Added a little USB pump for a water feature.

Went to turn it on today and it's all slimy...kinda see through slimy.

And has some greeny good too at the bottom.
Assuming this is the Biofilm we are talking about.?

The dog seems to like it though, he's still drinking it..... :mexican wave:

..

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That’s what I use inside my van with a home made 12V shower, works a treat and packs down. I’ll let most things with 2 legs in it but not 4.
 
First proper cleaning dose.

A full, drain . . . Then fill with dose.

I'll leave it in 24hrs then drain.

The dose said on Pure clean... Level teaspoon for 4.5L....

I've got 60L tank, so that was 13 odd level spoons, or a 1/4 ISH of the doeser thing in using. Then just connect up the water and pump it in.

..

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@Nash2o - Adam, I have a question relating to water filters.

I have one of these filters for use with my van's boiling-water tap...

According to AI, I should remove the filter before applying Puriclean and that I need to "remove the active filter element and then re-attach the empty filter housing" otherwise "...the Puriclean will damage the filter and the filter will prevent the Puriclean from doing its job".

My problem is that the filter appears to be a sealed unit and all AI can offer in this scenario is to "use an end-of-life filter and increase the soak time to 12 hours to make up for the filter absorbing a lot of the cleaning agent" - which is all well and good, but then AI goes on to warn that "with prolonged soaking, Puriclean can structurally break down the internal mesh bags holding the loose carbon granules inside a disposable filter" and that "...this can cause black carbon grit to burst out of the filter and flow down your lines, permanently blocking your tap valves, non-return valves, and water pumps."

Do you have any advice please as none of the options available seem to be without risk?

TIA
 
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@Nash2o - Adam, I have a question relating to water filters.

I have one of these filters for use with my van's boiling-water tap...

According to AI, I should remove the filter before applying Puriclean and that I need to "remove the active filter element and then re-attach the empty filter housing" otherwise "...the Puriclean will damage the filter and the filter will prevent the Puriclean from doing its job".

My problem is that the filter appears to be a sealed unit and all AI can offer in this scenario is to "use an end-of-life filter and increase the soak time to 12 hours to make up for the filter absorbing a lot of the cleaning agent" - which is all well and good, but then AI goes on to warn that "with prolonged soaking, Puriclean can structurally break down the internal mesh bags holding the loose carbon granules inside a disposable filter" and that "...this can cause black carbon grit to burst out of the filter and flow down your lines, permanently blocking your tap valves, non-return valves, and water pumps."

Do you have any advice please as none of the options available seem to be without risk?

TIA
Just had a closer look at the filter to ensure that it is actually a sealed unit. Initially it appeared to have a screw-top, but the top is actually bonded to the base. :(
 
Hi @Bav

A.I is mostly correct.

The carbon component will neutralise the disinfectant and depending on chemical strength and contact time, the chemical could breakdown and destroy the carbon cartridge rendering the process pointless.

The best solution is to remove/bypass the filter completely during the disinfection process. As per the link you sent, these filters have 10mm pushfit connections (quick release) therfore the unit can be easily disconnected, you then can fit a temporary or semi permanent hose to bridge to gap where the filter was.
If you purchase some spare hose, ensure it is the tougher/rigid pneumatic grade style (normally black or blue) rather than the clear flexible hose that could pop off during the process.
Run the whole disinfection without the filter, flush throught the filter before refitting and returning to normal operation.

These filters are normally limited use, as they can only treat a certain amount of water before the internal core is depleted, therfore depending on the make and model, I would suggest at least a yearly replacement, perhaps if you are planning to do a major disinfection at the start of your season, replace the filter post disinfection.

Tip to consider....
If you install a longer than required hose when you put it all back together, such as a loop. That excess hose (loop) is ready to bridge the gap each time you plan a disinfection, rather than looking for that temporary piece of hose in the back of "that" drawer.
 
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Hi @Bav

A.I is mostly correct.

The carbon component will neutralise the disinfectant and depending on chemical strength and contact time, the chemical could breakdown and destroy the carbon cartridge rendering the process pointless.

The best solution is to remove/bypass the filter completely during the disinfection process. As per the link you sent, these filters have 10mm pushfit connections (quick release) therfore the unit can be easily disconnected, you then can fit a temporary or semi permanent hose to bridge to gap where the filter was.
If you purchase some spare hose, ensure it is the tougher/rigid pneumatic grade style (normally black or blue) rather than the clear flexible hose that could pop off during the process.
Run the whole disinfection without the filter, flush throught the filter before refitting and returning to normal operation.

These filters are normally limited use, as they can only treat a certain amount of water before the internal core is depleted, therfore depending on the make and model, I would suggest at least a yearly replacement, perhaps if you are planning to do a major disinfection at the start of your season, replace the filter post disinfection.

Tip to consider....
If you install a longer than required hose when you put it all back together, such as a loop. That excess hose (loop) is ready to bridge the gap each time you plan a disinfection, rather than looking for that temporary piece of hose in the back of "that" drawer.
Not sure why I didn't arrive at that solution in the first place. 🤪

Anyway, thanks for your input Adam 🙏 - being helpful must be a genetic trait. ;)
 
We use Milton sterilising tablets - the same 1's for babies bottles.
Chuck 'em in - wait a day, then draw all the water through the tap.
Fill container with clean water.
Ok for drinking / water bottles / cleaning teeth / cooking / filling kettle etc
Been ok so far...

@Dellmassive
I also chuck a couple of the same tablets in our paddling pool after a couple of days.
No more green stuff :thumbsup:
 
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We use Milton sterilising tablets - the same 1's for babies bottles.
Chuck 'em in - wait a day, then draw all the water through the tap.
Fill container with clean water.
Ok for drinking / water bottles / cleaning teeth / cooking / filling kettle etc
Been ok so far...

@Dellmassive
I also chuck a couple of the same tablets in our paddling pool after a couple of days.
No more green stuff :thumbsup:
I've previously used Milton liquid, but found it left a chlorine taste/smell that no amount of rinsing through would entirely eliminate. Also, reading this thread, I don't believe Milton can tackle biofilm, hence the move to Puriclean. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
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