Looking for an automotive electrician Yorks or North East to assist with design and then certify

[CJW]

Hello

I'm enjoying designing the electrical system for my second conversion. I know my limitations and so will my insurance company, and want to find an automotive / conversion electrician in York / Yorkshire / North East area who would be willing to check over my design, then certify it once I've installed it - of course I recognise this would be a paid service. I want to do as much of the work myself as possible so that I understand the beast when out in the field and something doesn't behave as expected. I don't mind driving the vehicle within Yorks / North East to have it certified and assume the assistance with design would be done by email. I include the schematic to date - if anyone on the forum has any observations to make on their experience with Transporters, then please do comment - it would be much appreciated.

I can't afford a lithium battery yet (dogs, kids, etc) but have designed the system around one in the future, hopefully just being a straight battery swap. I'm thinking Renogy, so have gone with their charger. The RJ45 cable that runs from drivers seat to the rear can be repurposed for the smart monitoring of that battery and the charger via the addition of the hub and BT2 later on.

Big thanks to @Deaky and @Dellmassive whose posts I've really benefited from on this topic.

If you are the electrician I'm looking for, please post or PM me.

Many thanks

 

[Bigsidavies]

I follow this guy on FB and he seems to have a good rep.
Can’t post a link so here’s a pic. He’s Leeds based.

 

[CJW]

I follow this guy on FB and he seems to have a good rep.
Can’t post a link so here’s a pic. He’s Leeds based.View attachment 140660

Looks great - thank you very much. Not come across him before. I’ll contact him.

 

[NorthernJoy]

Only had a really quick look while on break so haven't checked the full circuit in depth but one thing I did notice was the vehicle battery to DC-DC input ALT+ requires an input fuse (~75A). Also may be able to reduce cabling from 25mm2 to 16mm2 as the run from the battery to DC-DC charger is <5m.

 

[Salty Spuds]

Any particular reason you want the installation certifying?

 

[CJW]

Only had a really quick look while on break so haven't checked the full circuit in depth but one thing I did notice was the vehicle battery to DC-DC input ALT+ requires an input fuse (~75A). Also may be able to reduce cabling from 25mm2 to 16mm2 as the run from the battery to DC-DC charger is <5m.

Doh! It's in my sketch but not the digital version. Thank you! The drop down to 16mm2 would be a helpful cost saving. Thanks for that too. Definitely less than 5m.

 

[CJW]

Any particular reason you want the installation certifying?

Hi. For the 12v, peace of mind for when my family use the van when I'm not there. I suppose it would be useful if something went wrong and I ended up in a discussion with the insurance company, but mainly because it involves mains, and I thought a mains install had to comply with the BS for motorhomes - maybe I'm wrong?

 

[Salty Spuds]

Hi. For the 12v, peace of mind for when my family use the van when I'm not there. I suppose it would be useful if something went wrong and I ended up in a discussion with the insurance company, but mainly because it involves mains, and I thought a mains install had to comply with the BS for motorhomes - maybe I'm wrong?

Fair enough. AFAIK, & I'm happy to be corrected, the mains side only needs certifying if it's a commercial installation i.e. a professional conversion that you're paying for. I don't think it applies to DIY, not that it isn't a bad thing to do.

 

[bytejunkie]

I'm doing the same myself, also learning lots from @Dellmassive thread. where i think one of the things that i picked up was that if you want the shunt to be measuring all the electrics then it needs to be in front of the only earth point, where you bypass it for the fridge. i think this was the point being made, but definitely worth asking this of the more qualified guys on here.

 

[T6Jay]

You seem to have your Mains Charger 0V, DCC50S 0V, and SOLAR 0V connections directly to the LB

They should all be via the shunt.

The ONLY connection to LB 0V should be the shunt.

I like your schematics with locations identified!

 

[CJW]

Thanks @T6Jay and @bytejunkie - I see what you’re saying - the negatives are the wrong side of the shunt. It would work but the shunt reading wouldn’t include all the drawn current. One single connection between LB- and the shunt means everything is drawn through the shunt despite where it’s earthed to the chassis. Super helpful. Thanks again. Brilliant forum this.

 

[T6Jay]

Thanks @T6Jay and @bytejunkie It would work but the shunt reading wouldn’t include all the drawn current.

Yes, your appliances, lights, chargers would all work fine.

But as you say, the drawn current and the charging current would not be seen by the shunt, leading to totally inaccurate SOC data on the battery monitor.