Light steering
- Thread starter Nuttymike
- Start date
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- power steering
Ok, I thought they are usually set up marginally nose-down to avoid light steering. Having said that, I’m no suspension expert - maybe @CRS Performance will be able to confirm?
Oh, definitely speak to them first then, they seem to have an excellent reputation for aftersales service.
As @DXX suggests though, also check the tyre pressure isn’t too high.
If a van is leveled out. Ie the gap on both wheels is the same , the chassis will have a 40 mm forward rake. This needs to be measured on the sill.
the sill line to the floor. Behind the front wheel to in-front of the rear wheel .
if a van has a camper conversion the rear sags 30 mm approx. this makes the rake 10 mm.and it isn’t enough. Weight transfers from the front axle to the rear axle and the result is light steering. Light steering isn’t a result of updated roll bars as suggested by some traders on here ?..
the sill line to the floor. Behind the front wheel to in-front of the rear wheel .
if a van has a camper conversion the rear sags 30 mm approx. this makes the rake 10 mm.and it isn’t enough. Weight transfers from the front axle to the rear axle and the result is light steering. Light steering isn’t a result of updated roll bars as suggested by some traders on here ?..
Has the weight changed in the back of the van at all. Need to check the wheel arch measurements to make sure all is ok
Light steering is normally over inflated front tyres..
The tyre starts to bulge across the tread leaving less tyre to tarmac contact....that gives the light steering feel.
What's the pressures all round ant tyre sizes?
The tyre starts to bulge across the tread leaving less tyre to tarmac contact....that gives the light steering feel.
What's the pressures all round ant tyre sizes?
Exactly. (And technically an under laden vehicle, but that’s really not common)
The centre circumference of the tyre tread will wear far quicker than the edges as the tyre takes on a balloon shape.
Unfortunately the uneven wear is only really obvious when the tread gets low.
Im not quite sure if it works for van tyres, but on my bike by taking the pressure cold and then hot I can work out if the pressure is correct, too low or too high.
Basically is the tyre is under inflated then the pressure will increase a lot.
If its correct it will in crease a few PSI
If its over inflated the pressure hardly goes up at all.
Basically is the tyre is under inflated then the pressure will increase a lot.
If its correct it will in crease a few PSI
If its over inflated the pressure hardly goes up at all.
Similarly, after a steady run, put the palm of your hand on the sidewall of each tyre.
They should all be the same temp. But a gauge is much better!
If tyre pressure are too high they will make the steering lighter and reduce the contact patch.
I used to work out under /over inflated tyres front/rear tyres and radial /cross ply tyres from skid marks alone.
Whilst here FYI - Friction damage for under inflation - I've described this before but here goes.
Look head on at the front of a wheel,
The side walls should be upright, maybe a gentle touch of a curve where the tyre rests on the ground, but the rest of the sidewall is flat.
In an under inflated tyre, the sidewalls are flat all around the circumference EXCEPT where the tyre rests on the roadway, they bulge right out quite a lot more- bleeding obvious so far.
Imagine a point on the side of the tyre.
As the tyre rotates, that point on the sidewall travels past and beyond the road surface. As it passes the road it goes from flat to curved and then back again in a nano second. It does this thousands of times per minute at speed.
This flexing causes heat, and also causes the sidewall plies to separate. Thats why folks get bulges, and is the primary cause of ‘blowouts’ which is a whole separate topic in its own right.
so look after your tyre pressures, make sure they are even and that they don’t get over heated, all you need is the palm of your hand, I check my van when I stop at services for a leg stretch, doesn’t tak a minute-
They should all be the same temp. But a gauge is much better!
If tyre pressure are too high they will make the steering lighter and reduce the contact patch.
I used to work out under /over inflated tyres front/rear tyres and radial /cross ply tyres from skid marks alone.
Whilst here FYI - Friction damage for under inflation - I've described this before but here goes.
Look head on at the front of a wheel,
The side walls should be upright, maybe a gentle touch of a curve where the tyre rests on the ground, but the rest of the sidewall is flat.
In an under inflated tyre, the sidewalls are flat all around the circumference EXCEPT where the tyre rests on the roadway, they bulge right out quite a lot more- bleeding obvious so far.
Imagine a point on the side of the tyre.
As the tyre rotates, that point on the sidewall travels past and beyond the road surface. As it passes the road it goes from flat to curved and then back again in a nano second. It does this thousands of times per minute at speed.
This flexing causes heat, and also causes the sidewall plies to separate. Thats why folks get bulges, and is the primary cause of ‘blowouts’ which is a whole separate topic in its own right.
so look after your tyre pressures, make sure they are even and that they don’t get over heated, all you need is the palm of your hand, I check my van when I stop at services for a leg stretch, doesn’t tak a minute-
Agreed. It’s this heating effect in under inflated tyre that causes the tyre pressure to increase.
