Fusebox with -ve busbar or without?

[dhardyuk]

Hi everyone,

I'm choosing fuse boxes whilst waiting for my Roamer SB230 battery to trickle in.

So, I understand the difference between the -ve busbar and -ve to body ground types of fuse boxes; clearly the one with -ve busbar is good for those places where the body is fibreglass or wood - ie boats, sheds etc.

So the dilemma - do I get a fusebox with a -ve busbar or one without, is there an obvious benefit I'm missing when comparing the 3 pictured below (ignore the lack of +ve busbar in the 3rd picture)? Maybe something about battery management, logging or isolating?





or this:



I'm going to be putting a couple of monster solenoids in to allow me to use an Anderson plug for jump starts and for the inverter (Inverter will be wired with its own chunky fuse:


or is it better to bite the bullet and get one of these:

Jump leads will be wired to starter battery via solenoid/relay, no fuse.

Thx.

David

 

[T6Jay]

I'm stating the case FOR fuseboxes WITH 0V busbar;

A lot of the kit it feeds (fridge/heater/usb sockets etc) has 2 cores to connect. Fuse x and 0V(x) take in each pair. This keeps maintenance/troubleshooting easy, and the wiring neater. The chassis 0V connections then have a single large black cable to each fusebox.

All IMO of course, you do you!