Changing Auxiliary Belt & Tensioner

[YellowHound]

Got my parts together.
One question for those that have done this job themselves - is it best to attack this job from above or below?
Thanks.

 

[Pewt]

Think i did most from below......remember thinking i could have done with a second pair of hands when i fitted the new tensioner. Hold it in place underneath and someone to thread the bolt in from up top.

 

[YellowHound]

Think i did most from below......remember thinking i could have done with a second pair of hands when i fitted the new tensioner. Hold it in place underneath and someone to thread the bolt in from up top.

Thank you.
Just after I posted my question I went out and had a look at my van....
.....should have done that before I asked as it's obviously a 'from underneath' job!

 

[fatboy_fat]

Sorry to jump on your thread, mine's squealing like a pig at the mo'. Got a new belt and tensioner coming tomorrow, but not sure what size spline bit I need !
Cheers,
Stu

 

[YellowHound]

M12 - I'd advise fitting a new bolt too.
I actually did mine by removing both the wheel arch liner and the engine under tray.
Was worthwhile for access but also I found a large build up of crud behind the liner so good to clear that out (and know to watch for it in the future).

 

[fatboy_fat]

M12 - I'd advise fitting a new bolt too.
I actually did mine by removing both the wheel arch liner and the engine under tray.
Was worthwhile for access but also I found a large build up of crud behind the liner so good to clear that out (and know to watch for it in the future).

Brill, thanks very much bud ! I didn’t realise a new bolt was needed, probably have to order one up, and repeat the whole process to change it when it turns up

 

[JOG]

M12 - I'd advise fitting a new bolt too.
I actually did mine by removing both the wheel arch liner and the engine under tray.
Was worthwhile for access but also I found a large build up of crud behind the liner so good to clear that out (and know to watch for it in the future).

Good tip on what to look out for. I will be swapping my horn for a new one shortly, so I’ll have a rummage then.

(There you go @Stay Frosty - “horn” and “rummage” in the same sentence!)

 

[Stay Frosty]

Funnily enough I'm currently watching Death and Other Details which seems to feature a lot of both although snuffling might be more accurate than rummaging.

 

[Chilledpharaoh]

M12 - I'd advise fitting a new bolt too.
I actually did mine by removing both the wheel arch liner and the engine under tray.
Was worthwhile for access but also I found a large build up of crud behind the liner so good to clear that out (and know to watch for it in the future).

Just swapped my tensioner/belt/idler pulley on my 2015 T6. The idler pulley requires a M10 spline bit, and the tensioner is held in place by a very, very difficult to access M13 Hex bolt, from the rear. The tension is released using a M16 spanner/socket on the tensioner pulley.

 

[Phil_j89]

Just swapped my tensioner/belt/idler pulley on my 2015 T6. The idler pulley requires a M10 spline bit, and the tensioner is held in place by a very, very difficult to access M13 Hex bolt, from the rear. The tension is released using a M16 spanner/socket on the tensioner pulley.

This is if the vehicle is fitted with a euro5 engine, the later euro6 engine has a tensioner that is held on with an m12 Bolt.

 

[CarreraRSR]

Is there a 'how to' for changing the aux belt for a CFCA anywhere here. Thank you

 

[The Tangerine Dream]

This is if the vehicle is fitted with a euro5 engine, the later euro6 engine has a tensioner that is held on with an m12 Bolt.

Great info and saved me a lot of bother!

What's the length of M12 bolt, please?

 

[Merryman]

How do you get to the M13 hex bolt ( re the tension pulley) on the euro5 engine, I have dropped the alternator. I can see 2 bolts 16mm head, for what I think is the power steering pump But can only get at the nearside one. Spanners are either too long or a short stubby, not enough leverage to undo the offside bolt. Is there lurking hidden somewhere ,a 3rd or more bolts or just those 2. Will removing this pump unit, will it give me access to the tensioner pulley bolt. If not, how on earth is it done, can't get your hand in there and no light does it, as the human head is a tad too big, and not enough room for a light and mirrors.
VW engineers had a real laugh on future repairers with this one.
If I can't get this done, have to strap up the alternator, put the sump guard back, wheel back on and drive 4 miles or more without any power steering.

 

[dazzler1973]

I've just done my 2019 CXHA. Put it up on two axel stands at the front really high so I could get decent access. I used a 12-15 inch breaker bar with the socket attached.....was a bugger to get in and onto the bolt but just took a little bit of time.....then lever the bolt anti clockwise and the tensioner moves to release the the belt which can then be removed. I would suggest taking a picture of the layout of the belt as it's not obvious how it goes back on unless you have done before. I didn't do this and took some time to find it on YouTube so I could put the new one back on in the right way.
I removed the breaker bar and socket to get the belt mostly on and then replaced onto the hex bolt and turned anti clockwise in order to move the tensioner so I could get the belt seated.....making sure that the belt was exactly on on all of the parts it should be as easily moved whilst getting in place.
Took me 1hour 45 mins all in all but having done it now it would take very little time if I needed to do it again as is actually quite straight forwards.......its just doing it for the first time and working out everything as yo go along.......and watching YouTube to make sure of what I was doing.

 

[Merryman]

Having just read the above, realised hadn't given an update.
The long and short, I couldn't do the job with the van jacked up. Needed the hoist, so oft to Oz-Cars at Honingham. (soon to move to bigger premises). They did remove the bolt, and then replaced the new tensioner, back on with the skirt and undertray, charged me 30 minutes labour. Which was pretty decent. I asked if it was hard, replied it's all about the feel and visualising the run of the bolt to the hex head nut. But as I said above, VW Engineers had a real laugh on mechanics with that one.