Spares live in the house in an old safe that is fireproof, just for housekeeping reasons.
Mrs car is keyless entry so we bought a faraday box, which we keep the daily keys in, just to be tidy. I
Bit of a a weird one T6 150 T32 67 plate
- Thread starter ThunderboltFMF
- Start date
Mrs car is keyless entry so we bought a faraday box, which we keep the daily keys in, just to be tidy. I
The blockmap records last four events in groups 20 (the last) - 23 (the earliest).
The recorded time was 00:35 and the alarm source was code 12 = Alarm horn. Sorry but I do not have any more details what exactly that means. Wiring issue or water ingress in alarm horn circuitry?
Perhaps the following would need to be rectified?
The earlier codes were (possibly) more self-explanatory
21 = Central locking alarm delay driver's side
5 = Engine hood
10 = Interior monitoring
The alarm sounder battery report status OK.
So the blockmaps were recorded ignition OFF?
During the recording voltage was only at 11.2 Volts
Also the blockmap shows remaining battery capacity was 0 Ah, so obviously would need immediate charging.
Possibly a more serious indication of battery health is battery's internal resistance (normalised) reading (for comparison my battery readings, and readings 8 years ago ). My impression is that the internal resistance would be a fairly reliable measure for battery's long term state of health - on mine it has been steadily deteriorated over the years.
Perhaps you could try to charge the battery - just to see if the number get any better.
Interesting, I took the battery off on Sunday and had it drop tested, which came out as fine.
From the above it looks like the battery is goosed.
The 00:35/00:40 event is the alarm going off.
Thanks for your advice and guidance.
From the above it looks like the battery is goosed.
The 00:35/00:40 event is the alarm going off.
Thanks for your advice and guidance.
What kind of test exactly, what were the acceptance criteria?
I took it off, took it to a garage, the auto electrician there put it on a tester (two clamps, (two leads, metal finned box that looked like a heat sink/zenner diode thing), that ran for about 15 seconds and the gauge was green. He then put it on another thing (bigger plastic box). I think he said that it was about 1.5v drop.
I don’t trust it now.
I don’t trust it now.
Standard load tester by the sounds of it, as good a test as you can get as far as I’m aware. But was it 1.5V drop while on load or after the load was disconnected?
The first one, metal box said green it was a a needle that swept across a graduated arc, outside lane, then I think five staggered lanes, green x3, yellow and amber, it was in green 2/3. Connected for 10 maybe 15 secs. Then on to,
The second plastic box had a digital readout, connected and a button was pressed ( which I assumed was the test button -one time push) it said 1.5 which I think was volts.
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