Anyone fitted a subwoofer?
- Thread starter t6stu
- Start date
The 10W1v3 is an outstanding choice when space is very tight and amplifier power is moderate. It features shallow mounting depth (4.6 in. / 117 mm) and a compact motor structure, allowing it to comfortably fit in a lot of spaces where a typical 10-inch driver will not. Lacking a pole vent, the rear of the motor structure can be placed directly against an enclosure boundary. Excellent excursion capability and linearity allow it to reproduce sub-bass with shocking extension and quality. Several of JL Audio's proprietary technologies enhance its performance and reliability.
The 10W1v3-4 is best used with amplifier power in the 75W - 300W range and is optimized to operate in a compact 0.55 cu. ft. (15.57 l) sealed enclosure. Detailed enclosure recommendations can be found in the "Specifications" tab.
Got this little chap under the driver seat, driven through the standard head unit via this
JL xd500/3v2 - under the passenger seat
180w RMS@4 ohms (sub channel) Little remote turn knob to control level, all auto on/off.
Sounds absolutely fab, and much quieter when the mrs is in the Vel
Also drives front component upgrades
The 10W1v3-4 is best used with amplifier power in the 75W - 300W range and is optimized to operate in a compact 0.55 cu. ft. (15.57 l) sealed enclosure. Detailed enclosure recommendations can be found in the "Specifications" tab.
Got this little chap under the driver seat, driven through the standard head unit via this
JL xd500/3v2 - under the passenger seat180w RMS@4 ohms (sub channel) Little remote turn knob to control level, all auto on/off.
Sounds absolutely fab, and much quieter when the mrs is in the Vel
Also drives front component upgrades
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The amp can take un-amplified signals or an amplified signal. There are no RCA outputs from the VW unit, and also I have rear speakers which I have not touched.
So the fronts LHS and RHS amplified signal go straight to the amp; then there is an amplified sub out from the amp. Also have updated components in the front, and standalone Cross-Overs hidden in the doors. Jason from Absolut5 did it all for me, but he also sells the bits if you want to DIY, he posts on this forum, so you can pm if you want to. Absolutely love the upgrades, all hidden other than the tun knob for the sub level; this is really handy as it is a pain to go into the head unit menu to adjust bass, when the knob is fitted into one of dash spare switch holes, so a really stealthy install.
I am like a 17 year old all over agin, great fun.
love it
Im having absolut5 under seat sub enclosure for a sundown sd3 10" sub woofer. Other subs used like the jl audio slim don't drop low enough for my music tastes 35hz and below.
I'm not using the oem stereo though.
I'm not using the oem stereo though.
Yep, i'm pretty much going thro' that nowI had a subwoofer in my VW Polo in 1997. Loved it. Whole car used to shake and I'd get blurred vision.
I'd love another but the wife would have me up the divorce court
, the sub level control knob is on the passenger side, and it stays looooow level, when my co-driver is on board
Look forward to hearing about your setup, please keep us all informed
I'm sure my oem head unit is now by far the week link in my set up, but functionality wise it is good, and keeps the oem look inside.
Are you going Alpine ?
Look forward to hearing about your setup, please keep us all informed
I'm sure my oem head unit is now by far the week link in my set up, but functionality wise it is good, and keeps the oem look inside.
Are you going Alpine ?
Yes I'm going with the Alpine. Mainly because the Van is my daily drive and I use the sat Nav going to many different customer houses every day.
In the t5 the angle of the dash creates so much glare I can't see the screen.
The x801 has a massive capacitive screen so it's clear in direct daylight plus with the 801t5 kit it can be angled more vertical.
Plus the unit has decent processing and crossover capabilities to run my proposed setup.
As far as oem systems go the Vw one seems actually good.
I think people in the know think the Alpine head unit is by far the best (sonically), as obviously you do.
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I don't understand the spec sheet, but if my enclosure is effectively ported, then the sub is at around 32hz, I think.
But I guess you would have to take as-installed measurements, because the enclosure (the under drivers seat space) is along way of the spec sheet for the sub, in terms of an empty space.
If the port is tuned for 32hz then that's where it will peak but the enclosure and port length and diameter need to be right to be properly tuned for the sub.
I was going to run an infinite baffle sub on the bulk head but decided against cutting the bulk head up.
I was going to run an infinite baffle sub on the bulk head but decided against cutting the bulk head up.
Underneath my driver's seat is pretty ramed with oem stuff, so any enclosure I guess is very compromised, in terms of pure design
only got a single passenger seat, with a second battery and now an amp under that one
You cannot run any sub free air. Very few are designed to run in an infinite baffle configuration. (ie where the front and rear sound waves are separated but the rear enclosure is infinitely large. I run IB in my car and the sub is designed to run it and it will play flat right down to 15hz.
Ported enclosure design will dictate how the sub plays. Each sub is different.
I have the double front passenger seat. Absolut5 make an enclosure to fit under one half and provides roughly 0.55cuft for a 10" sub. They mainly use them for the JL audio 10 tw1 and tw3 and it will work great.
Ported enclosure design will dictate how the sub plays. Each sub is different.
I have the double front passenger seat. Absolut5 make an enclosure to fit under one half and provides roughly 0.55cuft for a 10" sub. They mainly use them for the JL audio 10 tw1 and tw3 and it will work great.
