180 bi-turbo - New engine time - DPF / EGR questions

paradigm

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Morning all,

Long story short, my T5.1 Sportline is going in for a new engine this weekend, the full works.

Obviously the CFCA engine and its issues are well documented here and all over the internet but I'd like to hear from people whos vans have had a replacement engine and either:
a) had a new DPF/EGR fitted
b) kept the same DPF/EGR with a new engine (this is what the previous owner did with mine, hence another new engine needed!)
c) blanked/deleted/mapped out the whole lot - how has the van been after this? MOT's passed/failed etc

Would really appreciate some opinions and stories please.
Thanks, Oli
 
money no object new EGR and block and map it out. VW crate engines you get one, injectors and turbo/s supplied I think

DPF, personally keep it i think
 
Ok so basically the CFCA engine and its bolt on parts are very good except for the EGR valve. All CFCA EGR valves will fail it does not matter if it’s a D variant they can and do fail.
With this in mind if you have had a full engine replacement with absolutely everything replaced costing easily upto £14k it doesn’t make sense to leave a little ticking time bomb waiting to kill your engine again. You can go three routes now.
1) Leave to EGR in place and accept the inevitable.
2) Find a good VW engine specialist to try to retro fit a reliable EGR off of a 140 BHP VW engine.
3) Blank the EGR and fit a Non DPF exhaust pipe and have the engine remapped. Then find a tame and understanding MOT station to help you get your VW through its yearly tests.
Good luck with your quest.
 
I've used blanking plates on the EGR and running an EGR emulator. I've confirmed with VCDS that the DPF regen is still active and effective. Simplest way to prevent engine failure. It takes a little longer to warm up in the depths of winter but in general drives smoother and the oil temperature seems to stay under 100C on long hard motorway runs which it never did before.
 
Ok so basically the CFCA engine and its bolt on parts are very good except for the EGR valve. All CFCA EGR valves will fail it does not matter if it’s a D variant they can and do fail.
With this in mind if you have had a full engine replacement with absolutely everything replaced costing easily upto £14k it doesn’t make sense to leave a little ticking time bomb waiting to kill your engine again. You can go three routes now.
1) Leave to EGR in place and accept the inevitable.
2) Find a good VW engine specialist to try to retro fit a reliable EGR off of a 140 BHP VW engine.
3) Blank the EGR and fit a Non DPF exhaust pipe and have the engine remapped. Then find a tame and understanding MOT station to help you get your VW through its yearly tests.
Good luck with your quest.
Or the relatively very cheap option #4; Fit the Tafmet kit without renewing the EGR or doing anything to a healthy DPF.
 
#4 I considered Tafmet, would have been cheaper, but went remap route for no reason other than I had a guy who supply’s maps to other businesses on my doorstep. DPF regens continuing as normal.
 
I'm thinking along the lines of retaining the EGR valve, but binning off the troublesome EGR oil cooler & with it the issyes of a dissolving EGR Cooler.. Question: can this be done, has it been done & if so, how?

Thanks
 
I'm thinking along the lines of retaining the EGR valve, but binning off the troublesome EGR oil cooler & with it the issyes of a dissolving EGR Cooler.. Question: can this be done, has it been done & if so, how?

Thanks
I would give Retro Resus a call tbh, they certainly seem to be the authority on this.
 
Did email Darkside and they said not possible - or at least they couldn't help.. but keen to keep looking for a solution.

Have version D EGR oil cooler fitted, but still anxious! Hear that the Pierburg version .. or straight Pierburg variant is better??
 
Did email Darkside and they said not possible - or at least they couldn't help.. but keen to keep looking for a solution.

Have version D EGR oil cooler fitted, but still anxious! Hear that the Pierburg version .. or straight Pierburg variant is better??
If VW can't admit any fault can they claim any fix?
 
I'm thinking along the lines of retaining the EGR valve, but binning off the troublesome EGR oil cooler & with it the issyes of a dissolving EGR Cooler.. Question: can this be done, has it been done & if so, how?

Thanks
From what I’ve read it’s possible to remove the combined 180ps EGR / oil filter and oil cooler and then bolt on the oil filter from a 140. I believe you then add a separate oil cooler. That eliminates any EGR, obviously mapping is required to cope with this.

What you are considering isn’t possible, even if it were there is little benefit in re-circulating hot gases as the purpose is to reduce the combustion temperature.
 
So, for my understanding, if a Tafmet emulator is fitted will the EGR valve & Cooler assy need to be removed (to make a 100% belt and braces fix for the dissolving EGR Cooler issues) or can it remain fitted (appearing to be connected & working)?

My aim here is to remove all concern and any doubt regarding EGR engine issues (180 biturbo engine). So I can sleep well at night!

Thanks in advance
 
So, for my understanding, if a Tafmet emulator is fitted will the EGR valve & Cooler assy need to be removed (to make a 100% belt and braces fix for the dissolving EGR Cooler issues) or can it remain fitted (appearing to be connected & working)?

My aim here is to remove all concern and any doubt regarding EGR engine issues (180 biturbo engine). So I can sleep well at night!

Thanks in advance
Use blanking plates on the EGR cooler entry and exit ports and then use a Tafmet or map out the EGR valve opening. All exhaust gases will not be able to recirculate back into the engine and cannot bring any aluminium in with the gases. If you remove the EGR cooler or pipes you will likely fail an MoT as it's obvious you have tampered with the emissions system.

Further reading if you haven't been here - 2016 180 Bi turbo CFCA engine failure is the EGR valve corrosion the cause of the scored and worn out bores
 
So, for my understanding, if a Tafmet emulator is fitted will the EGR valve & Cooler assy need to be removed (to make a 100% belt and braces fix for the dissolving EGR Cooler issues) or can it remain fitted (appearing to be connected & working)?

My aim here is to remove all concern and any doubt regarding EGR engine issues (180 biturbo engine). So I can sleep well at night!

Thanks in advance
No need to remove anything with the Tafmet kit, it is well proven.
 
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