Why do so many people replace the standard floor mat?
- Thread starter Unclebob
- Start date
Many people do this.
Thanks, good to know it's an option. I don't have a load mat in the back, but I found a 2nd hand one for $100 (pretty rough but that's fine by me) - just the time saving alone from this would be awesome (we're going away to the snow in a week and currently the back is stripped, most of the dash is off, and the passenger seat is chilling in the garage).
However, there are a lot of people pulling them out, which begs the question - why?
Height of the floor.
People often use the mat if putting caravelle or claifornia rails. The disadvantage is you will need a new side step and tailgate threshold due to the increase on the height. Have a look for the threads about fitting cali/caravelle rails for more info.
Thanks @Skyliner33. That does sound unfortunate!
And as said above wouldn't be solid enough for a fixed bed, only a bed on the OEM rails.
Good point!
Try lifting the original mat out! Do you really want to carry all that weight about just for sound & heat insulation?
You would be better to replace it with Kingspan or similar, that works quite OK when covered with a wooden floor panel or at least it has done for me in four conversions.
As I use the Reimo seat/bed on runners the insulation and appropriate thickness board make up the height of the runners and also equate to the higher version sliding door step. The rear threshold plastic can be re-fitted with slightly longer screws to fit over this raised floor.
You would be better to replace it with Kingspan or similar, that works quite OK when covered with a wooden floor panel or at least it has done for me in four conversions.
As I use the Reimo seat/bed on runners the insulation and appropriate thickness board make up the height of the runners and also equate to the higher version sliding door step. The rear threshold plastic can be re-fitted with slightly longer screws to fit over this raised floor.
What's the thickness of that Kingspan stuff? Also how compressible is it and how does it work with the ridges in the floor?
Just remember it won’t be a completely solid base as it has give in it.
We had to redo Caravelle conversions with this under the floor (we didn’t do the original build) because the floor had too much flex in it due to the give in the rubber floor.
Im would recommend you sound deaden the floor and then you have a solid base to build on.
We had to redo Caravelle conversions with this under the floor (we didn’t do the original build) because the floor had too much flex in it due to the give in the rubber floor.
Im would recommend you sound deaden the floor and then you have a solid base to build on.
What would you use? Wooden batons to fix the 12mm ply floor to? If so with thickness? Then insulate between them?
I've never had any problems using the Celotex product which is much the same as Kingspan. These products are available in many thicknesses although the thinner ones as used for this job does take a bit of searching out.
For the way that I have done my conversions in the past I have used 22mm Celotex with an 8mm ply topping that. This may sound a to be a bit thin to use along with Reimo runners but additionally I always carpet the floor with industrial (hospital quality) carpet which brings the thickness up to the desired level. As for the ribs in the floor, by compressing the wooden topping and screwing it through with stainless steel screws to the floor (Waxoil or similar treated on the underside where ever possible) is sufficient to make it firm enough for all fitments above.
The Caravelle higher sliding door step will require a different light plus a short adaptor harness and if the budget will stand it the one with the stainless insert looks good.
I can supply pictures of how the current T6 floor looks but it will have to wait until I return from holiday at the end of the month as we are a bit cluttered up whilst out in France.
For the way that I have done my conversions in the past I have used 22mm Celotex with an 8mm ply topping that. This may sound a to be a bit thin to use along with Reimo runners but additionally I always carpet the floor with industrial (hospital quality) carpet which brings the thickness up to the desired level. As for the ribs in the floor, by compressing the wooden topping and screwing it through with stainless steel screws to the floor (Waxoil or similar treated on the underside where ever possible) is sufficient to make it firm enough for all fitments above.
The Caravelle higher sliding door step will require a different light plus a short adaptor harness and if the budget will stand it the one with the stainless insert looks good.
I can supply pictures of how the current T6 floor looks but it will have to wait until I return from holiday at the end of the month as we are a bit cluttered up whilst out in France.
Thanks, I get what you mean. I am not planning to screw the ply to the metal van floor though.
When we haven’t go a Caravelle floor to adapt(which does make life easier) then making from scratch is the way to go and build it up.
Similar threads
