T6Ollie's T6 (point 1) kombi to camper self conversion

Gutted Ollie. However, 5 weeks will fly by. What else is on your list?

Sorry I realise I didn't answer your question - The main expense outstanding is the bed then there are a few little bits like the sink and hob but otherwise the main bits are done and paid for!
 
I'm subbing to this thread as I'm going to start making a slow start on my Kombi over the summer. We're having a baby in August and I'm finishing my degree (whilst working full time) in June, but I've just bought a Kombi now, so I can try and sell on my T5 and start buying some bits for a kombi. I'm looking at using the hythe auto electric underseat thing for my leisure electrics, they've said It will fit a 185AH battery, and I want it to be charged when the engine is running, and to have some MC4 connectors under the bonnet, so I can plug in my briefcase solar panels when we're parked up for periods of time.

I'm thinking about sound deadening, and insulate under all the panels and floor myself, and I think I can carpet the original panels myself, but I'm not convinced I have the talent to Carpet the metal work so I'm intrigued to find you said you didn't find it too bad. Also thanks for the heads up you can't carpet line the black door store, I'd been intending on doing exactly that.
 
I'm subbing to this thread as I'm going to start making a slow start on my Kombi over the summer. We're having a baby in August and I'm finishing my degree (whilst working full time) in June, but I've just bought a Kombi now, so I can try and sell on my T5 and start buying some bits for a kombi. I'm looking at using the hythe auto electric underseat thing for my leisure electrics, they've said It will fit a 185AH battery, and I want it to be charged when the engine is running, and to have some MC4 connectors under the bonnet, so I can plug in my briefcase solar panels when we're parked up for periods of time.

I'm thinking about sound deadening, and insulate under all the panels and floor myself, and I think I can carpet the original panels myself, but I'm not convinced I have the talent to Carpet the metal work so I'm intrigued to find you said you didn't find it too bad. Also thanks for the heads up you can't carpet line the black door store, I'd been intending on doing exactly that.

I did my own carpeting too and whilst it's time consuming and can be somewhat frustrating, it's not actually that difficult. Sure, it won't be as good a finish as a professional but it's certainly a lot cheaper and the outcome is basically the same. I have my van build thread here if you want to see.
 
Today Dad and I attempted to remove the kombi rear seat brackets from the floor. We got the front of the van up and took all the covers off but we bailed. Even if we dropped the tank we couldn’t see how we would be able to remove the two brackets above the exhaust head shield. So not sure what to do next, find someone who can remove them for me I think.
 
Today Dad and I attempted to remove the kombi rear seat brackets from the floor. We got the front of the van up and took all the covers off but we bailed. Even if we dropped the tank we couldn’t see how we would be able to remove the two brackets above the exhaust head shield. So not sure what to do next, find someone who can remove them for me I think.

Looks like a bit of a pain without a ramp. After watching the below and seeing the install, I think I'd probably get it done by a pro.

 
I’ve contacted a few places, one sounds very promising so hopefully the bracket problem will be sorted soon.

In other news, I’ve just checked my order status with Evo and the kitchens been cut! Not long now hopefully.

Just waiting for some more samples from Titan then I can order the bed too.
 
I’ve finally been back on it today. I’ve had the kombi seat brackets removed since I wasn’t able to do it myself and that was the last blocker to getting it finished (other than time!).

First job was a clean and inspection, I’ve got 3 screw holes to repair and 8 seat bracket holes to fill.

All clean:

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Only 3 of these, I’ll sand them back and put some hammerite on.

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Next I laid out the 9mm packers that I’ve had sitting around for ages so I could make sure filling all the holes wouldn’t interfere with them:

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What I can’t work out is how there is supposed to be any room for insulation between the batons 🤔

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You can see here the floor would have high spots. I’m thinking I might not put anything down between the batons as I know a lot of people don’t bother.

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I’ve finally been back on it today. I’ve had the kombi seat brackets removed since I wasn’t able to do it myself and that was the last blocker to getting it finished (other than time!).

First job was a clean and inspection, I’ve got 3 screw holes to repair and 8 seat bracket holes to fill.

All clean:

View attachment 325128

Only 3 of these, I’ll sand them back and put some hammerite on.

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Next I laid out the 9mm packers that I’ve had sitting around for ages so I could make sure filling all the holes wouldn’t interfere with them:

View attachment 325129

What I can’t work out is how there is supposed to be any room for insulation between the batons 🤔

View attachment 325130

You can see here the floor would have high spots. I’m thinking I might not put anything down between the batons as I know a lot of people don’t bother.

View attachment 325131

Looks great! You’ve got the exact same setup as me mate, same packer kit too by the looks of it. I found the Dodo Deadn Duo worked well between them and didn’t interfere with the 12mm ply floor on top. I have more photos on my build thread, but here’s what I mean.

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Loving the van update the light carpet looks great.

I also used dodo deadn duo in between the spacers. I think once you use whatever bond/adhesive the size of that bead covers the small difference in height between battens and deadening.

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Thanks lads, I've got a sample of 6mm super liner here although I think I have a sample of the deadn duo somewhere as well so I will have a look for it
 
I’ve started sticking the batons down. There’s no way the super liner is going to work under the floor without causing problems.

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The deadn duo seems to have a different type of foam that compresses better but I didn’t really want the added weight.

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Maybe the 5mm dead ezy liner would work, or perhaps I just go with the duo?
 
I've just checked my spreadsheet of everything I've bought regarding the conversion and it was actually the Deadn Duo Pro I used. It comes in at 7mm, compared to the 4.5mm of the non-pro version. Is that what you have? I found the thicker pro one worked perfectly fine under my 12mm plywood floor on top of the packers. How does those thicknesses compare to the other liner you have?

One roll of it did (almost) the entire LWB floor, so would be fine for a SWB. Unfortunately it's £10 more than when I bought it a year ago..

 
Interesting thank you. I think I have muddled up my research! - Looking again it looks like if you want the insulation to sit between the batons you should use deadn duo (4.5mm) and then you can bond or screw your top 12mm ply. If you are going to cover the whole floor including the batons then it doesn't really matter what you use as it will need to be screwed down - just so long as your threshold covers still fit.

My two samples are the thinner deadn duo and 6mm superliner.
 
I've just checked my spreadsheet of everything I've bought regarding the conversion and it was actually the Deadn Duo Pro I used. It comes in at 7mm, compared to the 4.5mm of the non-pro version. Is that what you have? I found the thicker pro one worked perfectly fine under my 12mm plywood floor on top of the packers. How does those thicknesses compare to the other liner you have?

One roll of it did (almost) the entire LWB floor, so would be fine for a SWB. Unfortunately it's £10 more than when I bought it a year ago..


I suppose the Duo Pro is using the same type of foam as the regular Duo which to me seems more "compress-able" than the super liner.
 
Interesting thank you. I think I have muddled up my research! - Looking again it looks like if you want the insulation to sit between the batons you should use deadn duo (4.5mm) and then you can bond or screw your top 12mm ply. If you are going to cover the whole floor including the batons then it doesn't really matter what you use as it will need to be screwed down - just so long as your threshold covers still fit.

My two samples are the thinner deadn duo and 6mm superliner.

You can have the thicker Duo Pro insulation fit between the battens and still sit below the plywood floor though, even when you factor in the raised ridges on the metal floor. The battens are about 9mm high if I remember. Sorry, I don't have a lower angled photo of what I mean.

If you lay it over the top of the battens it'll raise it too much and leave it a uneven; and give you no real benefit anyway as wood itself is already a decent insulator.

At the end of the day, as long as you have some sort of insulation on the floor it can only be a good thing. In the grand scheme of thing it doesn't add all that much extra weight - that said, I have a T32 so it's less of an issue for me anyway.

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I'm not at home so can't tell you how thick my insulation is.
I will say wood is itself a good insulator and my floor seems fine with what I have under it.
 
Me again with more floor concerns! I ended up ordering the Deadn Duo which I'll be putting down this week but I did a test piece and noticed this part of the floor (arrowed) seems to slope away slightly causing a high point (circled). Is that normal?

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Me again with more floor concerns! I ended up ordering the Deadn Duo which I'll be putting down this week but I did a test piece and noticed this part of the floor (arrowed) seems to slope away slightly causing a high point (circled). Is that normal?

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That's towards the front of the van, yeah? Must be as I have piece 3 being in the same place (The perspective makes it look like a shorter piece of wood). This is the only photo I could find of mine at this point. It looks like it does raise slightly at the same point, but it's given me no issues. The combination of the sikaflex (or whatever adhesive you use), plus the weight of the 12mm ply on top, plus any subsequent screws that secure that down mean it'll all just level out and you'd never know. It's wood at the end of the day, and it bends, so I wouldn't worry mate.
 
I've been making good progress on the floor, shout out to @RichyJ91 for his input it has been a massive help!

It was supposed to be completed today but there has been one last issue. Over the course of a few evenings I sanded, rust treated and painted the three screw holes (I know I went OTT on these):

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And then I put a blob of sika flex in before putting a rivet in it as well:

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For the kombi bracket holes I got some aluminium sheet from B&Q and cut some pieces out then attached them with a good good blob of sika as well:

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Finally for the tie down bolt holes I picked up these from ebay and secured them with a bit of thread locker:

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The whole floor was then covered in Dodo Deadn Duo. I hated this job, out of everything so far this was the worst job I've done because the stuff is really difficult to work with, it doesn't bend very well and then because of the ridges you have to over size all the pieces otherwise you come up short and it didn't stick between the ridges that well either. Anyway it's all done now, one roll was enough and it will never be seen.

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Today we put down the 12mm one piece floor which was cut perfectly, I didn't need to trim it at all but for some reason the rear threshold cover doesn't quite cover the very end, anyone else had this problem? I'll just pack it and cut the altro floor slightly longer.

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The only issue still to be sorted now is the fact that they sent me 2m x 2m when I ordered 2m x 2.5m - d'oh!

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