T6.1 Stealth LED Install and comments

archersam

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So I couldn't find anyone having fitted the grill lights from Stealth LED. So I bought myself some.......


I had been in contact with them previously as there kit is designed to be wired so that it operates standalone from a remote control. This in my view is stupid idea, however I get the impression that ALL of their light kits use the exact same loom so this was probably about simpler product development and them not getting drawn into possibility of bulb errors. They had said they do not recommend hard wiring into the main beam feed. So I ignored this. I mean they are just light units.

I had them installed when the front end was being repaired.

You get lots of loom that is plug and play. Each light links to the other then one feed is pushed to the wiring loom and then if you follow the recommended way you just connect live and earth and voila you are done, they operate at all times off of the remote so could be used as parking lights etc. I had them wired like this to start to test them and help me get the beams where I wanted before I changed it.

My thoughts:
I have the THQ full Audi lights which are a game changer in view. Whilst I like the style of these IF you are just about improving vision then I would personally recommend using the £349 and putting it towards the THQ full Audi lights. They improve your normal driving vision so much and then on main beam are superb. Sure these give even extra vision when in use however Id rather have the great normal vision and good high beam that the full Audi offer as the light from these is just a "bonus".

Install as follows:

They give you the white plastic bits that clip on the grill and show you were to cut.

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Then you add some of there brackets on and bolt the units to those.

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You also make a cut out of this piece however no photo of that as I was making the tea when he did it.

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I am yet to put on the cover caps as still playing with the angle of the units.

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I have them with the Autobeam switchable LED fogs that I also added - here in yellow

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I wanted them wired from the main beam so got out my trusty old voltage probe thing and located the main beam wire at the headlights.

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I stuck a relay over on the partition panel for ease of access.

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Wired the perm live from the relay to the supplementary fuse box I added ages ago (excuse the Wago that is for speed of disconnection of Knight Rider bonnet LED)
 
Great write up! They defo on my list the brackets do look a lot better than lazer. Which I am not a fan of the small T20 screw. I was going purchase on BF, however new brembo brakes and all season tyres have put that on hold until Xmas 😅🚐
 
;) You could have looked the wiring up as a VIP Member...

Looks the business though, how are they working out now it's dark?
 
;) You could have looked the wiring up as a VIP Member...

Looks the business though, how are they working out now it's dark?
I would have still checked it with a test meter before exposing the wire.............as there are only a few wires to probe it was just quicker to probe than go into the office to the laptop :-)

Someone on a FB commented has commented as follows (I had to google PWM)
"that supply can be PWM supply, which would mean you'll get relay chatter. Unless you've modified the relay with a capacitor and diode?
This would be part in reason why the supplier doesn't offer a plug and play loom into the headlight light loom as modern vehicles are no longer as simple as fixed 12v positive and negative.
I've seen modifications in vehicles where people think it's OK to just slice into the interior lighting loom. To later find out after they stop working that they have blown the bcm up, which is an expensive whoops!"

He might even be in this group, I know he has good comments about electrics from what I have previously seen.

I personally doubt a main beam light is on a PWM however I guess its easy to check. Wire up a volt meter, leave the engine running and stick the main beam on and video the meter for an hour then rewatch. Or is that too simplistic?
 
He probably means that you COULD have pinched in the wrong wire, theoretically.
On some T6.1 lights the DRL filament (of the same H15 bulb used for the high beam) is at occasion driven in PWM, to obtain the weaker side/parking lights. There are other combinations in other T6s that could use that system, i.e. for turning lights from DRL or Fog lights.

But:
1)- cannot see any wire that you could choose by mistake that would behave exactly like the High lights. I am not aware of any High Beam used in PWM, because you just want that, maximum power. Again, you COULD, i.e. using Adaptation in the Central Electric , force that funny behavior, but very theoretically.
2) If you use a traditional electromechanical (coil) relay, its time constant (the time that it takes to change status) would be most probably bigger than the PWM base period (1/f). So it means the relay, IF EVER mistakely driven by a PWM signal with reduced RMS voltage (i.e. 6V RMS with a duty cycle of 50%) will set itself ON or OFF, depending of its characteristics, but will not flicker. Of couse, if you use a Solid State Relay , then that is possible, because it is much faster. There an additional low pass filter with a capacitor could hep, but we are really reasoning in abstract.
 
As I was quite happy with beam placement I went out and fitted the caps.

Not very happy with the way the outside ones fit so I guess I’ll have to trim a bit off the top of the cap as I don’t want to trim more off of the grill to allow it to sit “level”.


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What do you think to the switchback led fogs ? Quite tempted by those myself but need to check what bulbs are fitted to my t5.1
 
What do you think to the switchback led fogs ? Quite tempted by those myself but need to check what bulbs are fitted to my t5.1
I quite like them. I was running some bright halogen things that got hot hot and I like the choice of the yellow.

Mine are wired on a separate switch as I sometimes run with them as additional drl’s even though it’s against the rules lol.
 
I quite like them. I was running some bright halogen things that got hot hot and I like the choice of the yellow.

Mine are wired on a separate switch as I sometimes run with them as additional drl’s even though it’s against the rules lol.
That's how I did myself before DRLs were available in Europe, as a safety measure. You want to be clealy seen at day, and you want to preserve your dipped beams for the real night use.
And I got caught a couple of times of course.
General Problem in EU, every country has its own traffic rules and priorities and on long cross trips it's really hard to make all happy.
For the fog lights worse were Hungary and France. Austria was always agnostic, Italy they encouraged you to turn them on in the winter, even when it was still officially forbidden. Then there are fire extinguishers, first aid kit, spare lamps, alcoholtest, Nordic DRLs, winter tires and chains, now GPS beacon (Spain). Once you give them the occasion to stop you, they will find something if they want. That is why now with more EU Countries that are in Schengen it is easier. No stop, no problem.
 
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Ah interesting I spend a lot of time in italy and had them on during the day and got flashed by the police coming the other way.

I am in an Italian T5 page and apparently the grill spotlights are not legal here.

I tend to run with a lot of stuff on board - all season snowflake tyres all year round, chains and socks when December hits, enough Hi vis vests for all passengers and a few extra, warning triangles, flashing triangle light things etc.

Ah yes I’d heard about Spain and its beacon and been meaning to get something similar as whilst I don’t travel there i do travel a lot on dark European motorways
 
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