Right wheel alignment way out

[Lukavell]

This is my steering wheel centred.



Look at the right wheel!! It's well off. I replaced the steering tie rod both sides and I reckon I've done something wrong.

Worst bit is driving forward both front wheels are pointing outwards at the front. Might explain the really bad tyre hum on the last trip too.

Any ideas?

 

[DaveD]

I think you have already identified the problem and the cause of the problem!
In terms of ideas, I think you need to get it to a garage, preferably on the back of a recovery truck.

 

[Yzfr1]

This is my steering wheel centred.

View attachment 74854

Look at the right wheel!! It's well off. I replaced the steering tie rod both sides and I reckon I've done something wrong.

Worst bit is driving forward both front wheels are pointing outwards at the front. Might explain the really bad tyre hum on the last trip too.

Any ideas?

Did you not get the wheel alignment done when you changed out the tie rods?

 

[DaveD]

Did you not get the wheel alignment done when you changed out the tie rods?

I might be wrong but I read the original post to mean that Lukavell did it himself, I can't believe a garage would let the vehicle leave like that if they'd done the wheel alignment!

 

[Lukavell]

I changed the shocks myself. I got the wheel alignment done shortly afterwards. I noticed a knocking so investigated. The drop links were not quite up to torque so I tightened them up. Knocking is gone but now this. I'm off to check the steering tie rods first thing tomorrow.

 

[Pete C]

You’ve either fitted the wrong rod ends, or not screwed them up onto the rack far enough - I would guess.

I certainly would not drive it far as the tyre wear will be horrific.

Pete

 

[Lukavell]

You’ve either fitted the wrong rod ends, or not screwed them up onto the rack far enough - I would guess.

I certainly would not drive it far as the tyre wear will be horrific.

Pete

I reckon the right hand side has not been tightened up the rack far enough. The new ones are identical to the old ones so I'm confident that is not the problem. I was very careful not to alter them although that doesn't mean that I didn't!

Worryingly I've driven a fair few miles since doing the work, the only big difference was a lot of tyre hum which might be explained by this, I put it down to a larger gap between the tyre and wheel arch creating a resonance chamber effect.

I noticed the issue walking up my drive as I've parked it over the road - I don't normally see it from this angle.

 

[Yzfr1]

I've figured it out.........your T6 has the F1 AMG Mercedes DAS system and one of the linkages has failed!

 

[Lukavell]

So, I've finally got it into a garage. The mechanic started with a new alignment. Took it for a test drive and he thought all was fine, until he reversed on full right lock. He heard a grinding noise and the steering wheel was off centre again.

I think it is pretty obvious that something is out of alignment on the right hand side; the left is fine. Whilst I was preparing the van to go to the garage I took this video whilst the front was on axle stands:

Not good. When there is weight on the front suspension the gap between the tie rod and drop link is much larger, I checked prior to driving it the half mile or so to the garage. I suspect that this clearance is reduced on full lock in reverse, which coincidentally is what I have to do to get out of my drive which is also up a steep incline.

The roads here are bloody awful. I'm pretty sure that my changing of the shocks is just coincidental but I'm starting to wish I'd paid somebody to do it now.

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome as we're supposed to going on a three week adventure in the van on the 15th August!!!

 

[Pete C]

You are going to need to work through the suspension and steering components, taking measurements on one side, then comparing with the other. Something has to be moving a lot though, for the tracking to jump that far out just by reversing.

Pete

 

[Lukavell]

I've spoken to the mechanic this evening and he's got a few more ideas for tomorrow one of which will be comparing either side. I'll keep the thread updated.

 

[catfood12]

Your video doesn't look like stock droplinks. Are they longer than stock ? Either that or the new shock has the ARB droplink bracket welded on too low. Here's mine. A good 15mm clearance on full extension, that increases as the suspension is compressed...

 

[Lukavell]

Well spotted @catfood12, they aren't stock but they are identical length to stock. That was my initial though too but the left hand side is fine and they measure the same. I think it must be the ARB which is bent somewhere as I also compared and measured the tie rod ends.

It also throws up a steering angle sensor issue.

 

[Pete C]

One question - you took the van into your mechanic with a massive offset on the right wheel - what did he do to get it re-aligned before he drove it ?

Pete

 

[Lukavell]

I aligned the wheels myself by eye, by adjusting the steering rod but the mechanic took it to a suspension specialist he knows to do a laser alignment.

 

[RedUn]

So, I've finally got it into a garage. The mechanic started with a new alignment. Took it for a test drive and he thought all was fine, until he reversed on full right lock. He heard a grinding noise and the steering wheel was off centre again.

I think it is pretty obvious that something is out of alignment on the right hand side; the left is fine. Whilst I was preparing the van to go to the garage I took this video whilst the front was on axle stands:

Not good. When there is weight on the front suspension the gap between the tie rod and drop link is much larger, I checked prior to driving it the half mile or so to the garage. I suspect that this clearance is reduced on full lock in reverse, which coincidentally is what I have to do to get out of my drive which is also up a steep incline.

The roads here are bloody awful. I'm pretty sure that my changing of the shocks is just coincidental but I'm starting to wish I'd paid somebody to do it now.

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome as we're supposed to going on a three week adventure in the van on the 15th August!!!

Drop links too long, you need shorter ones, needs a new arm too you can see the groove you've worn into it!

 

[Lukavell]

@RedUn, I'd completely agree with you on the drop link length if it wasn't ok on the left hand side.

The arm will be replaced but not until the problem is solved.

 

[Fluff34567]

initial view is the tie rod is too long or not screwed in properly. however if the wheels are straight then its out after a large steering movement if suggests a suspension arm movement when under load. If the rack was moving then the other wheel would also be out.

did you remove any suspension arm bolts during the replacement by any chance?

 

[Lukavell]

Hi, thanks for the input, but no I did not, although it did cross my mind so that I could get the hub back on a little bit easier. Could they bushes be knackered on the arm or something? Whatever the issue is it is just the front right corner.

Also I checked the torque on the tie rod in the beginning of the fault finding.

 

[RedUn]

@RedUn, I'd completely agree with you on the drop link length if it wasn't ok on the left hand side.

The arm will be replaced but not until the problem is solved.

Not a daft question, are they both the same length? How close is the other side? It's not uncommon for cars to be slightly different from side to side, a few mm isn't surprising but it might just be enough to cause an issue on one side?