Replaced power steering pump...
- Thread starter Algypan
- Start date
There doesn't seem to be any restrictions when I flush the fluid through. The guy who sold me the pipe has given me a refund and asked if maybe my pressure release valve is faulty...
I've mentioned this previously but wasn't sure exactly how to test it. So far I've managed to be able to push on the pin in the high pressure side of the pump and it moves freely under spring loaded tension. Could I be missing something else?
Thanks for all the help! This is starting to raise my blood pressure to dangerous levels at the moment
Yeah, that was me
You have no luck do you mate. Have you checked all your other pipes for kinks? Can you trace when the fluid is is heating up? After the pump before it enters the rack? The return from the rack? Can you take the pipe from the pump going to the rack and put it into a container and see if it still gets warm? That would rule out the rack. If it’s a new pump then it would be a restriction in the hoses. I am baffled too
There are three potential causes of raised PS oil temperature;
1. Friction - damaged pump, try disengaging the belt and see if the pump turns freely by hand.
2. Throttling oil through the pressure relief valve, the valve is constantly lifting and the pressure drop across the valve increases the temperature.
3. PRV not lifting when it should while steering is inactive, pump trying to discharge the same oil and no flow.
I’m doing an engine oil service in the next couple of days, I was planning to check and feel how quickly the PS oil temperature increases.
Regarding the second leaking hose; it was probably made is the same way, by the same person with potentially the same defective equipment as the previous hose.
Did the hose manufacturer offer to pressure test the second hose prior to dispatch?
1. Friction - damaged pump, try disengaging the belt and see if the pump turns freely by hand.
2. Throttling oil through the pressure relief valve, the valve is constantly lifting and the pressure drop across the valve increases the temperature.
3. PRV not lifting when it should while steering is inactive, pump trying to discharge the same oil and no flow.
I’m doing an engine oil service in the next couple of days, I was planning to check and feel how quickly the PS oil temperature increases.
Regarding the second leaking hose; it was probably made is the same way, by the same person with potentially the same defective equipment as the previous hose.
Did the hose manufacturer offer to pressure test the second hose prior to dispatch?
Story of my life, Pal.
I have checked other hoses, I have even replaced a couple with new genuine as they were damaged, for example the cooler. I'm really hoping it's not the rack 
Maybe another pump is on the cards... 3rd one in less than a year
The hose should burst before the coupling leaks. The PS pump is a low pressure system, nothing approaching the rating of a typical hydraulic hose. The working pressure (WP) will be marked on the hose skin and the minimum burst pressure will be available in the hose tech’ spec’ online.
That would explain the dirty PS fluid that you flushed out.
@Algypan
I’ve just had the lower engine cover off my van for an oil service so I took 10 minutes to see if the PS warms up at idle without steering.
From cold after 4 min’s I could just sense a change in temperature, for the further 6 min’s I couldn’t detect any further rise in temperature. Certainly not even warm let alone too hot to touch.
In your case I’d advise removing the pump, disassemble it and investigate what it wrong. I would think it is oil paper and O ring joints so if you are careful it should go back together OK.
I’ve just had the lower engine cover off my van for an oil service so I took 10 minutes to see if the PS warms up at idle without steering.
From cold after 4 min’s I could just sense a change in temperature, for the further 6 min’s I couldn’t detect any further rise in temperature. Certainly not even warm let alone too hot to touch.
In your case I’d advise removing the pump, disassemble it and investigate what it wrong. I would think it is oil paper and O ring joints so if you are careful it should go back together OK.
Here we go again, ladies and gents... 
So I'm about to order another new pump and another hose. Is there anything I should do before sticking them on and filling it with fluid, firing it up and bleeding? This whole ordeal has made me nervous and doubting myself as I don't want to risk wrecking another pump and bursting another hose for whatever reason.
The thing that worries me is that the old pump pretty much boiled the fluid due to what I can only imagine was a faulty pressure release valve or a blockage from before I installed it and the new hoses. I have now taken off and returned that pump and binned off the new damaged hose, and have replaced the cooler and the pipes going to and from the reservoir. How can I be sure that when I stick the new pump on and fire it up that I'm not going to have some kind of potential blockage again?
I wanted to check that I hadn't damaged the new rack that I installed last year by pulling the boots off and seeing if there was any fluid in the boots but they were dry.
As always... thanks for the help!
So I'm about to order another new pump and another hose. Is there anything I should do before sticking them on and filling it with fluid, firing it up and bleeding? This whole ordeal has made me nervous and doubting myself as I don't want to risk wrecking another pump and bursting another hose for whatever reason.
The thing that worries me is that the old pump pretty much boiled the fluid due to what I can only imagine was a faulty pressure release valve or a blockage from before I installed it and the new hoses. I have now taken off and returned that pump and binned off the new damaged hose, and have replaced the cooler and the pipes going to and from the reservoir. How can I be sure that when I stick the new pump on and fire it up that I'm not going to have some kind of potential blockage again?
I wanted to check that I hadn't damaged the new rack that I installed last year by pulling the boots off and seeing if there was any fluid in the boots but they were dry.
As always... thanks for the help!
Update:
New pump and new hoses fitted. Still f***ed.
It started to smoke from the engine bay. The pump and pipes were boiling to touch. I had to shut it off as I seriously think it was about to catch fire.
I don't know what else to do. I suspect whatever step I take next will likely involve another new pump and new hoses seeing as they seem to have boiled.
My only guess is that my year old rack has tanked, thus causing the other new components to yet again fail
New pump and new hoses fitted. Still f***ed.
It started to smoke from the engine bay. The pump and pipes were boiling to touch. I had to shut it off as I seriously think it was about to catch fire.
I don't know what else to do. I suspect whatever step I take next will likely involve another new pump and new hoses seeing as they seem to have boiled.
My only guess is that my year old rack has tanked, thus causing the other new components to yet again fail
Sorry, out of ideas. It would seem the rack is at fault. If you know anybody with a hydraulic hand pump equipped with a pressure gauge you could try connecting that to the rack and see if the rack operates without excessive resistance / pressure.
Is there any warranty on the rack? Surely there should be some good will gesture as you have had this problem for some time nowUpdate:
New pump and new hoses fitted. Still f***ed.
It started to smoke from the engine bay. The pump and pipes were boiling to touch. I had to shut it off as I seriously think it was about to catch fire.
I don't know what else to do. I suspect whatever step I take next will likely involve another new pump and new hoses seeing as they seem to have boiled.
My only guess is that my year old rack has tanked, thus causing the other new components to yet again fail
It did come with an 18 month warranty and I've got a few months left on it but the problem is I'm going to need to prove it is definately the rack, right? Or it's failed due to something that wasn't my fault. That's going to be pretty hard when it wasn't fitted by a professional or hasn't been properly diagnosed by a garage
I've pinged them an email so hopefully I'll hear back soon. Now I need to have it towed to a place where I can get the rack off.
I don't suppose you happen to have a spare rack kicking about for sale, do you? Just incase
I disagree, as mentioned the OP is not a qualified mechanic and there isn’t a visible record of the maintenance / repair process. IMO a time consuming distaction with little chance of a positive outcome.
