Renogy Battery Monitor Wiring Question

[CooseVW]

So, with my renogy 100ah lipo4 mini core battery, I got a free battery monitor. The manual which came for it is confusing me a little...

Can anyone clarify where the shunt goes?


Nowhere in the manual does it tell you what 'C-(Charge-)' or 'P-(Output-) mean.

I'm assuming this shunt goes in series between the Neg of the leisure battery and the Neg on my CTEK D250se charge controller?

Looking for a sense check before I commit to cutting cables really.

Thanks!

 

[EAN]

Basically:
The B connection of the shunt goes to the battery negative terminal. Nothing else at all except this connects to the battery negative terminal.
The P connection or Charge- or P - output (whatever they call it) becomes your system negative. All your negative connections go to this side of the shunt, which in 99.99% of installs will be connected to the chassis of the van.
This is so all the current flows through the shunt.

 

[CooseVW]

Hi EAN, Thanks for that. So would I connect as follows? Where the orange box and arrow are?

 

[EAN]

Hi EAN, Thanks for that. So would I connect as follows? Where the orange box and arrow are?

View attachment 313841

Yes where the orange box is: Left side would be B and right side would be P.

 

[Dellmassive]

B to Battery NEG terminal (nothing else connected here)
P to chassis/NEG Busbar

 

[CooseVW]

Thanks for the replies lads. I was confused as to if I needed to connect it between the battery neg and charger neg.

I think their terminology could be improved.

Thanks again!

 

[burnsy79]

I’ve just had delivery of mine. All I want it to do is monitor my new leisure battery. Why am I confused by their wiring diagram? B- to battery neg and B1 to battery pos?

 

[Stay Frosty]

The only wire from the shunt that goes to the battery positive is that thin wire lead to supply a + for the small amount of electronics onboard the brass lump.
Go back up to the Renogy wiring diagram and it's almost a side view of the shunt showing the B1 side of the shunt being the only negative connection to the battery, look to the right and that's where any negative accessory connections should go and in addition where your negative link to the vehicle bodywork will go.
Just like the factory ECU shunt at the starter battery if all negative connections have to pass through the shunt before getting to the battery then any current flow can be measured and displayed, any live to negative connection that bypasses the shunt eg. where some t**t just connects something across the battery posts, starter or leisure battery, then that mucks up the concept completely as any drain won't show up straight away unless it's a hefty load.