Renogy 50 amp Dc-Dc charger ign pick up

[Shane_Long]

Hi all, I’m struggling to find a definitive answer and scrolled through all the posts without what I’m looking for unfortunately.
I’m about to fit a Renogy 50A dc-dc charger along with portable solar and reading the instructions about smart alternator it’s stumped me.
Where are we picking up the ign live from on the fuse box? I’ve tested them all and found that all the standard size fuses are permanent live and found a mini fuse 15a which I think is wiper motor to be ign live. My thinking is that I need the alternator to be putting out over 12v for the dc-dc charger to kick in.
I’ve seen that people mentioned about having fans on No.2 and that’ll kick the alternator in. It’s all a little confusing and would ideally not want to turn certain things on to ensure the charger wakes up.
Is there a known point I can take a pick up from to achieve this? I’ve added a picture of part of the system I’ll be using.
Thanks

 

[Andy.H]

Right or wrong i'm not sure, but mine has been fitted and running for 2-3 months now without the ignition wire

 

[drinfinity]

I used this photo from @Jlo for mine, stick a piggyback in here.

Post in thread 'T6.1 Ignition live fuse'

11 Mar 2021

Red: 12V Ignition switched live fuses.
Blue: The Common +12V side



I haven't look for a decent Ground point yet... That's a job for next month for me... watching this thread!

• Jlo

• 

 

[Shane_Long]

Right or wrong i'm not sure, but mine has been fitted and running for 2-3 months now without the ignition wire

Nice one thanks

 

[Shane_Long]

I used this photo from @Jlo for mine, stick a piggyback in here.

Post in thread 'T6.1 Ignition live fuse'

11 Mar 2021

Red: 12V Ignition switched live fuses.
Blue: The Common +12V side



I haven't look for a decent Ground point yet... That's a job for next month for me... watching this thread!

• Jlo

• 

There’s no terminals on the other side, just where blue is outlined. I bought a piggyback fused holder hoping I could use that but I’m unsure now. Would I have to fit a terminal in to the holder on the red side? Maybe I’m reading it all wrong

 

[sparkzer]

There’s no terminals on the other side, just where blue is outlined. I bought a piggyback fused holder hoping I could use that but I’m unsure now. Would I have to fit a terminal in to the holder on the red side? Maybe I’m reading it all wrong

That is correct.. the bit highlighted blue is +12V ign live, there are several unused fuse locations and as you said no connections on the other side of the fuse. As your using the piggyback holder however, that will not affect you as your piggyback holder will take power from the blue bit, go through the piggyback fuse and send it down the wire coming out of the piggyback.

The alternitive is get the corrrect crimps to put on the other side of one of the fuse holders, wire to that then put a regular fuse in there, it would look more 'OEM' than a piggyback, but is more work.

 

[Shane_Long]

That is correct.. the bit highlighted blue is +12V ign live, there are several unused fuse locations and as you said no connections on the other side of the fuse. As your using the piggyback holder however, that will not affect you as your piggyback holder will take power from the blue bit, go through the piggyback fuse and send it down the wire coming out of the piggyback.

The alternitive is get the corrrect crimps to put on the other side of one of the fuse holders, wire to that then put a regular fuse in there, it would look more 'OEM' than a piggyback, but is more work.

Brilliant. I’ve been out to the van and just tested it with a piggy back holder I had. You’re right. It worked a treat. IGN off no power, IGN on 12v and then engine running it was 14v. Perfect I’ll be using that. Thanks for your help

 

[rippelep]

Hm, I have the same charger and went another way. The charger should only transfer power to the aux. battery if alternator is working. That is not always the case even when driving. So the renogy charger has an input for this signal:


which I connected to the Onboard supply control unit (J519) which sends the signal " I am producing currrent". (73-pin connector -T73a- , black, pin 3 (not 100% shure)). I can see that smart behaviour looking at the voltage.
Normal drive 12.1V, no charging.
Braking or just rolling with the engine breaking the car, 14.9v (renogy charging).
Empty starter battery, 14.5V(renogy charging).
Lights on, 13,9V, charging.

If I want to force loading, I switch one of the heated seats on, then I always have >14v (renogy charging).

 

[JoshB_]

Another one here that hasn’t connected anything additional up.
I get a mixed bag of when it will actually charge, drove 2 hours home once and never started. Nipped to the shops for 5 mins and charged all the way.

Thanks for these posts as it’s on my list of things to do,

 

[Dellmassive]

Another one here that hasn’t connected anything additional up.
I get a mixed bag of when it will actually charge, drove 2 hours home once and never started. Nipped to the shops for 5 mins and charged all the way.

Thanks for these posts as it’s on my list of things to do,

Turn your fan blowers on to setting toe and turn your headlights on..

That will push the voltage up from the alternator and allow the charger to run at full rate..