New to me T6 4mo
- Thread starter indy4x
- Start date
nice blank canvas
@Sasquatch it will be getting AT tyres slightly larger than standard but that's in the future once the current boots have worn out
It'll be turned into a Kombi and be my daily drive so side and rear windows, 2nd row of seats, van paneling removed, single front passengers seat etc
Already bought these out of a Tiguan
Now shopping for a single passenger seat box and need to try and figure out how to wire up the drivers seat as its full electric
It'll be turned into a Kombi and be my daily drive so side and rear windows, 2nd row of seats, van paneling removed, single front passengers seat etc
Already bought these out of a Tiguan
Now shopping for a single passenger seat box and need to try and figure out how to wire up the drivers seat as its full electric
Every now and then put your vehicle onto a loose surface grass or gravel, that sort of thing and operate the differential lock over a short distance and then turn it off. Check the instrument display to see it goes on the off while moving. diff/lock on most vehicles is mechanical but if they are not used they have a tendency to freeze and may jam off or even on. It is not normally considered good policy to operate them on hard none loose surfaces and in fact may be reluctant to go either way once on tarmac or concrete so always try to operate them on more slippery surfaces. If one has forgotten they do turn off after a certain speed around 18mph but turning off does not always mean disengaged. A tell tail sigh of unsuitable engagement on hard surfaces is crabbing or difficulty in executing sharp turns. Normally then if one side of the vehicle is run on a grass verge that will be enough to disengage if not turn steering wheel briefly hard one way then the next until disengaged or try reversing. Any of those things normally results in disengagement so long as it is switched of. Turning the ignition off also switches the D/L off.
The D/L is a very useful aid when the going gets tough.
The HALDEX Oil need regular changing and the Haldex need proper cleaning the oil becomes contaminated and filthy far faster than might be suggested in technical articles. There is plenty of coverage on the relevant pages.
The D/L is a very useful aid when the going gets tough.
The HALDEX Oil need regular changing and the Haldex need proper cleaning the oil becomes contaminated and filthy far faster than might be suggested in technical articles. There is plenty of coverage on the relevant pages.
@Kind of Blue good advice 
Thank you indy4x, diff lock is very useful occasionally, mine gets operated most days just to keep it working but also because I live off road and it helps on strait sections in fields to help prevent any slippage so preserving the surface. By definition even on a slippery surface with the diff lock engaged when turning tightly a wheel must be slipping other wise turning and steering would be difficult. The soft ground or grass accommodates this but it might mark the surface if you tried it on your favourite golf course green or first class cricket wicket. 
@Kind of Blue This is my current 'toy', open diff in the front and LSD in the rear. It doesn't have a centre diff currently so 2WD only on hard surfaces, with 4Hi and Lo reserved for the loose stuff. I do have an alternative transfer box that has proper centre diff so you can use 4WD on hard surfaces or locked when on the loose stuff, just need time to install it.
Ah a Jeep had one of the smaller ones next size down, which was part time manual selected 4wheel drive but did not get on with it really it was OK but felt the build was poor on that. I thought that the Transfer Box in the image shown was full time AWD a bit similar to the Rangerover. Had you changed it to part time or is that how some came. Much prefer Limited slip differentials my self not the plate or disc type but the Torsen, Ferguson geared type or the Geared ones built in the USA Detroit or Warn I think. I think that their are a few more manufacturers of geared LSD these days so not up to date on what is currently available. Any way I guess i teaching how to suck eggs to someone with a paltry farm so to speak so no offence intended. Had quite a collection of 4x4 and a 6x6x machines my self.
@Kind of Blue
Absolutely no offence taken, with any new user you dont have an understanding of their background, skills, knowledge or experience. Most people are here to learn and your advice was absolutely sound. I do occasionally do some off road driving tuition and you have to assume that everyone is starting from ground zero until you get to know them
It's a ZJ and yes, from factory had a similar setup to the RR P38 with a viscous coupling instead of a centre diff in the transfer box. The VC does go bad and is a compromise to make it simpler for the general public to use. You can either go NP231 transfer case which has no centre diff giving you what Jeep call 'part time' 4wd. The other option is the NP242 which does have a selectable lockable centre diff where you can use 4wd on hard services.
Yeah, American build quality is variable
I do have an ARB air locker for the front of the Jeep and a lunchbox locker for the rear. Also want to regear the axles when fitting the lockers but limited free time ATM to do it
I've had lots of different 4wd vehicles with a variety of different diff lock or traction control technologies and they all have their pros and cons. I sold my Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ after buying the Transporter. It was an 09 plate Overland which has electronic locking diffs in both axles and the transfer box, very impressed with it's capabilities, just wish it wouldn't engage centre difflock automatically in low box so I could shunt trailers around on tarmac
Absolutely no offence taken, with any new user you dont have an understanding of their background, skills, knowledge or experience. Most people are here to learn and your advice was absolutely sound. I do occasionally do some off road driving tuition and you have to assume that everyone is starting from ground zero until you get to know them
It's a ZJ and yes, from factory had a similar setup to the RR P38 with a viscous coupling instead of a centre diff in the transfer box. The VC does go bad and is a compromise to make it simpler for the general public to use. You can either go NP231 transfer case which has no centre diff giving you what Jeep call 'part time' 4wd. The other option is the NP242 which does have a selectable lockable centre diff where you can use 4wd on hard services.
Yeah, American build quality is variable
I do have an ARB air locker for the front of the Jeep and a lunchbox locker for the rear. Also want to regear the axles when fitting the lockers but limited free time ATM to do it
I've had lots of different 4wd vehicles with a variety of different diff lock or traction control technologies and they all have their pros and cons. I sold my Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ after buying the Transporter. It was an 09 plate Overland which has electronic locking diffs in both axles and the transfer box, very impressed with it's capabilities, just wish it wouldn't engage centre difflock automatically in low box so I could shunt trailers around on tarmac
The Toyota 80 series Landcruisers had a very useful box full time 4x4 which could be locked but was also viscus when open so always had good traction on and off hard surfaces including tight twists. Also had both axles lockable also. Not overly powerful for their size they were adequate in that department but reliable very stable good platform missed ours when it went. Probably ought to have sourced another. Do not see many now or any for that matter.
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