Help with set up leisure battery and etc.

Snakelimit

Snakelimit

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Hi everyone, I looking to replaced in my RAC T6 AMG battery and would like to help with an upgrade to a Lifepo4 battery with a new DC-DC charger, inverter, and other accessories.

My primary requirements are a battery that can provide power for up to four days to run essential appliances like the fridge lights, night heater, and water heater. I also need an inverter to power the kettle, hair dryer, and possibly an air fryer or induction cooker.

I would like to have a backup power source like solars as well, but I’m still undecided about whether to install a pop-up roof or not. However, I would appreciate having a backup option just in case.

I’m open to suggestions for the best battery and power system to meet my needs. I’ve been considering the Orion XS 50A DC-DC charger, but I’m also open to other recommendations.
Originally wanted install in double seat but recently my wife complain about how comfy it is and we will need change to singles one for her and wonder if all would fit in single etc.
Thanks for your help!

Please see below my current set up
IMG_1847.webpIMG_1850.webpIMG_1852.webpIMG_1853.webp
 
4 days off grid just on battery power? fridge , lights, night heater, water heater, kettle, hairdryer and hob
Have you calculated all that ?
 
As mentioned you need to workout your power usage. That is the first step before designing the system. You will need a very big battery to cope with 4 days, including some pretty heavy inverter use, with no other charge source. Or you will need to run the engine to top up - are you stationary the whole time or driving each day? Have a look on Nohma.com for some excellent system design guidance.
 
JumpShip said:
4 days off grid just on battery power? fridge , lights, night heater, water heater, kettle, hairdryer and hob
Have you calculated all that ?
Click to expand...
No not really, 4 days are just maximum what I would stay in case my wife don’t feel well and it’s not like we will use all them each day except fridge, it’s hard to do this until you actually out and use it
 
ginkster said:
As mentioned you need to workout your power usage. That is the first step before designing the system. You will need a very big battery to cope with 4 days, including some pretty heavy inverter use, with no other charge source. Or you will need to run the engine to top up - are you stationary the whole time or driving each day? Have a look on Nohma.com for some excellent system design guidance.
Click to expand...
Where I find some help how to calculate power usage?
 
To give you an idea, 2 years ago we went to Lyme Regis to stay on a dreadful 'Long Drop Loo' type of camping field.
We didn't think it could get worse, it did, our solar panel packed up on day 1.
Fortunately our old 200Ah Roamer battery was fully charged on the way down by the Orion TR30 (Now replaced with Orion XS50)
We used a 2000watt induction hob, fridge permanently on, lighting, diesel heater, hair straighteners, toaster etc. 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter installed.
We went out once to the beach which put a few Ah back into the battery. Apart from that no other power input.
After 5 days the battery was down to 15%, the lowest I have ever taken it. The solar usually tops the battery up nicely, don't like to manage without it, but we had to!
What you want is very doable, it just takes up a lot of space and can be expensive!
 
Hi, thanks for info.
Now it’s time to get cracking on it!

I did some research and studied on the page, and I asked Norma for a free design. 😂

Currently, I have:

- 3000w Renogy inverter with auto pass-through for 230v and 12v
- Victron Tr Orion xs 50a DC to DC charger
- Victron smartshunt 300a (might need a bigger 500a)
- Victron Cerebo GX with GX touch display
- And 1 mega fuse 150A after the old exhaust installation

I need to buy:

- Battery, something around 200-250Ah
- Ablemail
- Solar controller (not sure what size will need)
- And the rest of the fuses etc.

I’ll wait for Norma’s design first, and then if needed, I’ll do my own.
 
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nodecentral said:
Hi @Snakelimit - how’s it going ?

Did you get your free Design ?

How did you decide on a 3000w inverter ?
Click to expand...
Ok for now
No they did not email me back yet or at all 😂 I got 1st email from one of them then ghosted
I plan do myself and then post here and see what needs to be changed etc.
Was for 2000w originally as no need for bigger but when shopping around find one new on eBay and send offers for cheeky price and I win it…. For cheaper price then 2000w
Still need to purchase battery min 250ah not to mention rest of cables fuses etc
 
nodecentral said:
Hi @Snakelimit - how’s it going ?

Did you get your free Design ?

How did you decide on a 3000w inverter ?
Click to expand...
Ok got email today about that free design but I believe it’s only when you buy parts from them (minus whatever you got already)
I will update as soon as I find more
 
Ok
Please check for me if all ok and what extra I need
Thank you

IMG_9267.jpeg
The dote line from xs Orion was not sure should go to shout or just ground it under driver seat.
Cerbo on side for now as will need to see how to connect etc.
Distribution fuses are 300a for inverter 60a for xs Orion 100a for load
Battery its Fogstar 314Ah
 
Last edited:
You need to add a fuse to the starter battery cable, at the battery.

Screenshot_20250623_153322_Chrome.webp
 
The Cerbo connects:

12v POS + neg. (5A feed)

Ve direct data cable to shunt
Ve direct data cable to Orion xs

If it's a Fogstar Pro, then CAN calls cable.

If a non Pro v version, then no link to cerbo
 
@Dellmassive does negative from xs should go to distribution? I was checking some schematics from Victron and a bit not sure here defo need to go to body of van as there no other connection to it? Smartshount 300A should be ok or should buy 500A version.
I will set up tomorrow all equipment to measure wires length.
Dint buy yet lynx distribution but I assume would be most easy and single solution if you got any other recommendations please share and might go different way
Thank you for your help!
Appreciate
 
Snakelimit said:
@Dellmassive does negative from xs should go to distribution? I was checking some schematics from Victron and a bit not sure here defo need to go to body of van as there no other connection to it? Smartshount 300A should be ok or should buy 500A version.
I will set up tomorrow all equipment to measure wires length.
Dint buy yet lynx distribution but I assume would be most easy and single solution if you got any other recommendations please share and might go different way
Thank you for your help!
Appreciate
Click to expand...
Any chassis ground, or the neg busbar. Shorts as possible is best.

Just not direct to the battery neg, as you have a shunt fitted.

I would go for the, 500A shunt, as it has bigger terminals and better power handling, as you show a 3kw inverter.

The lynx distributer is great, but huge in a T6. To big for most people.
 
Dellmassive said:
Any chassis ground, or the neg busbar. Shorts as possible is best.

Just not direct to the battery neg, as you have a shunt fitted.

I would go for the, 500A shunt, as it has bigger terminals and better power handling, as you show a 3kw inverter.

The lynx distributer is great, but huge in a T6. To big for most people.
Click to expand...
Forgot about this guy to buy

Ablemail AMT12-2 12v​

Where to fit in my case? Between starter and dc-dc?
Will measure size wise of lynx Before I buy today but all will be under bed then should be enough space I hope
500A added 300A will be for sale
 
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