Hello from Australia AXE , BPC and CFCA owner

[tiop]

Thought I'd report in cars going well, had an issue with rear crank trigger wheel not quite in sync with cam, had to pull gearbox back off, anyways done 200km and I have an oil leak looks like the rear main seal....under the fly wheel again..... not sure if its an install issue or a cheap China part issue. Ill let it leak for a while yet and drive it

 

[tiop]

Also I fitted the amarok cooler, used a hose from gates 02-0031 and fitted a crafter head needed 1m of 8mm hose and slightly clearance the bracket that holds high pressure diesel pump, and tapped and installed 1x stud for the existing exhaust manifold, over near the egr

 

[Jimmy Kim]

Hi All. Hoodee from Australia. Looks like a great forum and looking forward to finding some info and maybe even giving some.
I have had quite a few T5 s. Transporter and multivans over the years. I have a few now that I am wrecking and I do ALL my own work to them. Servicing and major mechanical. I am not a mechanic but I have learnt as I have always lived fairly isolated..and I just prefer to do the work myself.

My main van is a 05 128kw AXE T5 transporter LWB 4motion 5 seater 6spd manual with almost 600,000km on it. I believe its the original engine. It still goes but requires a lot of things done so I am shortly going to retire it. I already purchased a really nice 2010 T5 LWB CFCA Auto 5 seater with quite low km for the right price. Its got a buggered engine. The guy I purchased it from just spent a whole lot of money on it..dpf, injectors, new turbos, egr..ect..but the poor fellow was fisted as the damage to the engine was already done.
Anyway..I have already rebuilt a CFCA myself before..its actually still sitting in my shed but I have sold it, so I will pull this motor and do the same. Rebore. Recond head. Bearings, oil pump ect..
I want to completely remove the egr and I have seen the complete egr removal kit (for about $800au) but I was going to just make my own using the Amarok oil cooler. Any tips? I have not actually thoroughly searched the threads here but a quick search didn't show a lot..or a step by step guide on really getting completely rid of the main issue that haunts all the CFCA engines.

May even do a whole build thread on the engine if someone else is interested.
I use Spareto.com for most of my VAG parts. They are the best company I have dealt with for parts and the shipping to Australia is unbelievably quick and reasonably priced using DHL.

Anyway.. that's my bit done

Here is a good write up from another forum about completely removing the old CFCA egr system and replacing it with the 03l 115 389 c part.

VW T5.1 EGR Blank via ECU

Hi All, I'm aware I might be looking for a needle in a haystack here but is there per chance anyone with a 2010/11 VW Caravelle 2.0 BiTd Auto that has undergone an EGR blank via their ECU and/or has done an EGR blank on their machine ? My EGR is giving me a lot of trouble atm & would...

www.4x4community.co.za

I see there are new completely aluminium coolers available now..that have no plastic body so I think I will use that

Upgraded Aluminum Oil Filter Housing Assembly Fit for VW Amarok Passat 2.0L 2012-2014 A3 Q3 2.0L 2012-2014 Replaces# 03L115389H 03L-115-389-H 03L115389B 03L115389C 03L115389G 03L115389G : Amazon.com.au: Automotive

Upgraded Aluminum Oil Filter Housing Assembly Fit for VW Amarok Passat 2.0L 2012-2014 A3 Q3 2.0L 2012-2014 Replaces# 03L115389H 03L-115-389-H 03L115389B 03L115389C 03L115389G 03L115389G : Amazon.com.au: Automotive

amzn.asia

I did with aluminium oil cooler.
But in my case, the oil temperature was still high over 100°c sometimes. So installed extra oil cooler. But now I realised that my head has slightly problem though I still enjoy driving like that. I could have enough time to prepare CFCA engine rebuild. Anyway I paid about 70 for hose and cover plate and 130(?) for Amarok oil cooler. Also extra oil cooler for 200. Quite budget but works all well til now. I left DPF for preventing smoke but deleted on ECU.
Even my cylinder head or piston ring whatever has problem though no more than 95°c

Also when I removed EGR I didn't touch the front end. Just fully disassembled EGR each small parts. I took about 3-4hs

 

[DXX]

I left DPF for preventing smoke but deleted on ECU.

How does that work? If the DPF is in place but deleted from the ECU I would assume it won’t re-generate and soon clog up with soot.