Hi just thought I’d share my experience with my 2017 CXGB 102 138k EGR issue and how I seem to have fixed it. I’ve had the van 2 months, warranty specifically states no egr repairs.
I did an apprenticeship in mechanics then worked at a used car dealers for a few years but left that trade almost 30 years ago, so I’m a bit rusty but somewhat handy.
I had a repeat insufficient flow fault for a few weeks which I reset with Carista almost daily, figured best change it. Bought a new EGR and cooler (aftermarket) from GSF and fitted it.
I would have done everything from the top without removing the tray had I not dropped a nut!
Like everyone says the bottom nut and t30 is the worst part but it’s not horrendous just use the right extension bars to sneak over the steel pipe which you can pull slightly out of the way once you take the T30 bolt out. I was surprised how easy the starter was to remove, (just bung up the hole with a bit of cloth). Refitted and bled the coolant manually with no issues. From start to finish took me about 5 hours but nextime easy in 3!
It ran much smoother at idle with no engine light on however Carista was showing codes P144000 egr open circuit
P0403 A control circuit
P0405 A circuit low
P140200 egr electrical problem
None of these faults would clear but I still had no engine light on.
I thought ok it must need adapting but coninuied driving with no issues whilst contemplating buying VCDS. I figured hopefully it’ll still do a regen so monitored DPF soot level. Luckily it was getting close to the 0.86oz that Carista shows it triggers on. Within a few miles hey presto it started to regen, once it finished I re scanned and to my delight all faults had cleared. It’s been fine for a good few journeys so far today. I’m pretty sure it went through a cycle and adapted itself. Maybe I got lucky? Thanks for all the info I’ve gathered on here regarding this issue
I did an apprenticeship in mechanics then worked at a used car dealers for a few years but left that trade almost 30 years ago, so I’m a bit rusty but somewhat handy.
I had a repeat insufficient flow fault for a few weeks which I reset with Carista almost daily, figured best change it. Bought a new EGR and cooler (aftermarket) from GSF and fitted it.
I would have done everything from the top without removing the tray had I not dropped a nut!
Like everyone says the bottom nut and t30 is the worst part but it’s not horrendous just use the right extension bars to sneak over the steel pipe which you can pull slightly out of the way once you take the T30 bolt out. I was surprised how easy the starter was to remove, (just bung up the hole with a bit of cloth). Refitted and bled the coolant manually with no issues. From start to finish took me about 5 hours but nextime easy in 3!
It ran much smoother at idle with no engine light on however Carista was showing codes P144000 egr open circuit
P0403 A control circuit
P0405 A circuit low
P140200 egr electrical problem
None of these faults would clear but I still had no engine light on.
I thought ok it must need adapting but coninuied driving with no issues whilst contemplating buying VCDS. I figured hopefully it’ll still do a regen so monitored DPF soot level. Luckily it was getting close to the 0.86oz that Carista shows it triggers on. Within a few miles hey presto it started to regen, once it finished I re scanned and to my delight all faults had cleared. It’s been fine for a good few journeys so far today. I’m pretty sure it went through a cycle and adapted itself. Maybe I got lucky? Thanks for all the info I’ve gathered on here regarding this issue
