Do i need solar?

Thanks. That sounds a bit "once started - no going back" lots of problems. :eek:

So from the top surface of the pop top to the bottom of the void underneath it, I would need about 40mm.
Will have to see what I can work out at the weekend.
That will depend on you're panel...

Mine was around 35mm from the underside of the panel to the bottom of the rear gland with the radius of the cable.
 
Do you have the BlueSolar or the SmartSolar? Rather confusingly the "BlueSolar" one is the one without Bluetooth...

For solar you need to look at what total Watts the MPPT can handle and the maximum voltage - the Open Circuit Voltage.

So that listing has 200 watts and 23.40 volts.

Looking at the SmartSolar MPPT 75/15:

1743695703031.png

So you are comfortably under the 75 volt limit, but quite close to the 220 watt limit - given most panels never reach the rated output in real world conditions you're probably fine
 
The max wattage doesn't actually matter, so long as the other parameters are met. You can use a bigger wattage panel, it just means you'll get to the max amps output sooner and get more solar power at all times except for when the panel is maxing out - which lets face it, is almost never!
 
The max wattage doesn't actually matter, so long as the other parameters are met. You can use a bigger wattage panel, it just means you'll get to the max amps output sooner and get more solar power at all times except for when the panel is maxing out - which lets face it, is almost never!
It somewhat depends on the design - voltage is the really critical one as that can pretty much instantly fry the silicon device controlling the current - but heavily overloading the input can cause those devices to overheat and fail as well in more, shall we say, economically designed controllers.

It's less important, but I'd be wary of connecting anything substantially over the documented wattage.
 
Do you have the BlueSolar or the SmartSolar? Rather confusingly the "BlueSolar" one is the one without Bluetooth...

For solar you need to look at what total Watts the MPPT can handle and the maximum voltage - the Open Circuit Voltage.

So that listing has 200 watts and 23.40 volts.

Looking at the SmartSolar MPPT 75/15:

View attachment 281415

So you are comfortably under the 75 volt limit, but quite close to the 220 watt limit - given most panels never reach the rated output in real world conditions you're probably fine

This is the one that I have currently

Screenshot_20250403-181610.png
 
It somewhat depends on the design - voltage is the really critical one as that can pretty much instantly fry the silicon device controlling the current - but heavily overloading the input can cause those devices to overheat and fail as well in more, shall we say, economically designed controllers.

It's less important, but I'd be wary of connecting anything substantially over the documented wattage.
Victron say 30% over panelling is perfectly fine and recommended, in fact it's included as a parameter on the Victron calculator.


So for a 75/15 that would be up to a 285w panel. Provided, of course, it doesn't exceed all other requirements.
 
Question @The Flying Scotsman if you don't mind - your 360W Victron solar, is that the one that can be bought from Splitcharge? Interested in one because it's almost the right width for the roof tracks already attached to my poptop, which would be a lot easier installing and removing to use a topbox.

Also, if it is this panel, I notice it's 24v. Do the MPPTs automatically step down the 24v input to 12v output, if so which one(s) are you using? I notice for example the Renogy 30A MPPT supports 24v/12v automatic panel detection on input, but it doesn't say anything about output.

many thx
 
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Question @The Flying Scotsman if you don't mind - your 360W Victron solar, is that the one that can be bought from Splitcharge? Interested in one because it's almost the right width for the roof tracks already attached to my poptop, which would be a lot easier installing and removing to use a topbox.

Also, if it is this panel, I notice it's 24v. Do the MPPTs automatically step down the 24v input to 12v output, if so which one(s) are you using? I notice for example the Renogy 30A MPPT supports 24v/12v automatic panel detection on input, but it doesn't say anything about output.

many thx
I got my panel off eBay
Here’s the link
It’s a big victron 100/30 MPPT that I use. I’ve not had to change any settings with the panel being 24v. The MPPT takes care of it.
 
All MPPT are essentially DC-DC chargers - what they do is vary the current flowing through the solar panels (which will also vary the voltage) to find the best point for maximum power generation for the conditions at that moment - hence Maximum Power Point Tracking.

For the input what you need to check is that the Open Circuit Voltage of your panel (or arrangement of panels) is below the input limit for the MPPT - the OCV is the maximum voltage a panel can theoretically get to. If the voltage is to high it will damage the input side of the MPPT - essentially it will break down the silicon components that are controlling the input current.

For the output you need to check that the settings are correct for the battery being charged, just like any other DC-DC charger.

Generally MPPT input needs no configuration it's the charger output that does, and many try and auto sense what that is if the battery is connected on first power up.
 
All MPPT are essentially DC-DC chargers - what they do is vary the current flowing through the solar panels (which will also vary the voltage) to find the best point for maximum power generation for the conditions at that moment - hence Maximum Power Point Tracking.

For the input what you need to check is that the Open Circuit Voltage of your panel (or arrangement of panels) is below the input limit for the MPPT - the OCV is the maximum voltage a panel can theoretically get to. If the voltage is to high it will damage the input side of the MPPT - essentially it will break down the silicon components that are controlling the input current.

For the output you need to check that the settings are correct for the battery being charged, just like any other DC-DC charger.

Generally MPPT input needs no configuration it's the charger output that does, and many try and auto sense what that is if the battery is connected on first power up.
Knew someone with far more knowledge than me would chip in
 
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