Dimmer Switches

[doncarlyon]

Bought a "Touch LED Dimmer Switch" from clearcut conversions. Was working fine for a few days, then wouldn't switch the lights on or dim them.

Just checked the wiring, disconnected and reconnected...

It now puts the lights on permanently so have had to disconnect it.

Anyone have any experience of these?

Are they problematic?

 

[Vinyl1210]

Hi. Sorry (might seem a pointless reply) I’ve had no experience of these in a van, but in my ‘other life’ as a Commercial and Domestic Electrical installer, I have had experience of similar 230v controls and those which utilise 12v step down transformers. I can say on this front, that on certain bits of kit, if the voltage is not super stable, it causes the electronics to throw a wobbly. I’ve had it with poor neutral connections or ‘amazon special’ 12 v transformers supplied by the customer. So it may well be worth checking connections for integrity and perhaps your source voltage (battery) has dropped below an acceptable level for the kit.
I would have thought an easy way to check this is to try it with the ignition off (presumably it’s fed from an LB?) and then try with engine running when battery has a good charge. (But I might be talking complete horse Trump if yours isn’t configured that way).
Apart from that I’m afraid I’d have to see it first hand.

HTH and hopefully someone with direct experience will be along soon.

 

[doncarlyon]

Hi. Sorry (might seem a pointless reply) I’ve had no experience of these in a van, but in my ‘other life’ as a Commercial and Domestic Electrical installer, I have had experience of similar 230v controls and those which utilise 12v step down transformers. I can say on this front, that on certain bits of kit, if the voltage is not super stable, it causes the electronics to throw a wobbly. I’ve had it with poor neutral connections or ‘amazon special’ 12 v transformers supplied by the customer. So it may well be worth checking connections for integrity and perhaps your source voltage (battery) has dropped below an acceptable level for the kit.
I would have thought an easy way to check this is to try it with the ignition off (presumably it’s fed from an LB?) and then try with engine running when battery has a good charge. (But I might be talking complete horse Trump if yours isn’t configured that way).
Apart from that I’m afraid I’d have to see it first hand.

HTH and hopefully someone with direct experience will be along soon.

Thanks for the input - it all helps.

The switch is fed from the LB, which is at 98% charge. There was only the lights and a USB port connected to it when we went away at the weekend, so very little use really.

The supplier is sending out a replacement, so I'll try that and see how it goes. I'd assume they are cheapy chinese things which won't last but I'll give the replacement a go and if it fails again, try something else.

 

[Psm1975]

I’ve got the switches that I think you’re referring to. They come in silver and black. I’ve not had any issues with mine. I think CCC only does silver. I got my black ones from eBay.
The covers are separate to the switches.