Charging leisure battery from portable solar panels

[nomislotsirb]

I don't believe there is a specific thread on this topic, although I believe some Forum members have a similar setup. @Dellmassive?

We have a dayvan with a 115Ah AGM leisure battery which typically lasts 2 days, powering compressor fridge, lights, charging devices. However, we usually opt for EHU.

However, in late July my wife and son will be staying for 8 days on a TaeKwon Do camp where there is no EHU on the field they are staying in. I'm looking to avoid them being forced to have to go for a drive (removing awning, windscreen cover, swivelling chairs etc.) for the sole purpose of having to charge up the battery.

I am looking to replace the leisure battery with Lithium, on the basis that even if I opt for a 105Ah, this will effectively double the use. A 230Ah seat base would be ideal however.

Additionally, I'm looking at the option of using portable solar panels to top up. I'm not keen on having fixed to the roof, simply due to the limited use, and also the flexibility of portable units means they can be paired to power bank. I appreciate this can not be absolutely relied on, but I'm working on the basis that if the weather isn't great, having to go for a drive isn't such a bad thing anyway.

So, my questions are:

1. Has anyone done this?
2. Would 100W be generally reasonable (I appreciate this is very much dependent on weather) - this size would fit on windscreen nicely, whereas I believe anything larger would need to be sat on the floor
3. I have a Jackery power station, so would most likely opt for the same for the solar panels
4. I currently have a Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12|12 -18 Isolated DC-DC charger - would this need to be upgraded when adding a solar charger
5. Can the connectors be left under the seat base to plug the cables from the portable solar panel into?

One bonus question ... the campsite does have electric car chargers. I understand it is possible to get a cable that allows you to charge the leisure battery, albeit at great expense (https://www.bobilvans.co.uk/product-page/hook-up-to-ev-charger-adaptor). This still would require 'packing down' just to travel 100m, but has anyone done this?

Many thanks in advance, and apologies for it all being a bit waffly?!

 

[Dellmassive]

I don't believe there is a specific thread on this topic, although I believe some Forum members have a similar setup. @Dellmassive?

We have a dayvan with a 115Ah AGM leisure battery which typically lasts 2 days, powering compressor fridge, lights, charging devices. However, we usually opt for EHU.

However, in late July my wife and son will be staying for 8 days on a TaeKwon Do camp where there is no EHU on the field they are staying in. I'm looking to avoid them being forced to have to go for a drive (removing awning, windscreen cover, swivelling chairs etc.) for the sole purpose of having to charge up the battery.

I am looking to replace the leisure battery with Lithium, on the basis that even if I opt for a 105Ah, this will effectively double the use. A 230Ah seat base would be ideal however.

Additionally, I'm looking at the option of using portable solar panels to top up. I'm not keen on having fixed to the roof, simply due to the limited use, and also the flexibility of portable units means they can be paired to power bank. I appreciate this can not be absolutely relied on, but I'm working on the basis that if the weather isn't great, having to go for a drive isn't such a bad thing anyway.

So, my questions are:

1. Has anyone done this?
2. Would 100W be generally reasonable (I appreciate this is very much dependent on weather) - this size would fit on windscreen nicely, whereas I believe anything larger would need to be sat on the floor
3. I have a Jackery power station, so would most likely opt for the same for the solar panels
4. I currently have a Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12|12 -18 Isolated DC-DC charger - would this need to be upgraded when adding a solar charger
5. Can the connectors be left under the seat base to plug the cables from the portable solar panel into?

One bonus question ... the campsite does have electric car chargers. I understand it is possible to get a cable that allows you to charge the leisure battery, albeit at great expense (https://www.bobilvans.co.uk/product-page/hook-up-to-ev-charger-adaptor). This still would require 'packing down' just to travel 100m, but has anyone done this?

Many thanks in advance, and apologies for it all being a bit waffly?!

Yes you can do all of the above,

I would say the 100 watt panel will be an absolute minimum, I would be more inclined to go for a 200 watt panel... With a victron mppt solar controller.

As for the size of lithium battery the 105 amp hour we'll double your runtime versus your AGM, but if you can go up to the 230 am power that will be much better.

Your dc dc charger is already suitable for lithium so you're good to go there.

As for mains hookup you might be better just getting the viktron 12 volt hookup charger anywhere between 5 and 15 amp should do.

 

[Dellmassive]

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[Sackmycook]

I have the same set-up.

I have a Jackery 500 as a back up in the van. The Jackery Solar Saga 100 folding panel can charge this and also my Agm leisure battery via a fly lead connected to a Victron Blue Solar Controller.
I pop my folding panel on the dash at home when the van is sat. This keeps the leisure and starter batteries topped up.....
All works pretty well and no drama, fitted by me with no electrickery experience....

 

[nomislotsirb]

@Dellmassive & @Sackmycook many thanks for your really useful replies. It's really reassuring.

I've since also come across the below YouTube videos which were helpful, but also raised further questions.

Are there any disadvantages/losses overconnecting the solar panels to the power bank which in turn connects to the hook up point,opposed to connecting direct to the leisure battery? One advantage of this setup, I presume, would be that, on the assumption there is morepower generated from the solar than the output, it is also keeping the power bank topped up.

@Sackmycook, what fly lead have you used please? One of the videos suggested doctoring a cable from Amazon that is currently out of stock (GELRHONR DC 8mm Splitter Adapter Cable, 14AWG DC7909 Solar Combiner Cable, 8mm Y Splitter Solar Panel for Generator Portable Power Station-1M/3.2Ft : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science).

 

[Sackmycook]

One of these I think.....

Solar Panel Extension Cable, HKY 10feet 8mm Extension Cable Female to Male Connector Power Plug for GZ Yeti Jackery 160/240/500/1000 Power Station Explorer Generator to SolarSaga 60W 100W Solar Panel: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

Solar Panel Extension Cable, HKY 10feet 8mm Extension Cable Female to Male Connector Power Plug for GZ Yeti Jackery 160/240/500/1000 Power Station Explorer Generator to SolarSaga 60W 100W Solar Panel: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

amzn.eu

Just cut off the end to connect to the solar controller....

 

[nomislotsirb]

I'm hoping to make a start on this shortly. I've looked at having a specialist undertake the works, but that will mean a day off and a fair amount of £££ labour, which I understand, given they need to remove, refit seats etc.

My question is, is it beyond the realms of a fairly competent DIYer to replace the AGM battery with Lithium, add a MPPT controller and fit a cable to connect to the portable solar panel? Will the new battery need coding.

In fact, another question. This weekend I plugged the compressor fridge into our Jackery Explorer 240, and then plugged SolarSaga 100W panel during the day and whilst the jackeryobviously went down overnight, in the morning it was back up to 100%. I also charged phones at various stages. With that in mind, is it worthtrialling just adding the MPPT controller andconnector cable, keeping the AGM battery in the first instance to see how that goes, before splashing out on a new battery? I've been recommended the Fogstar 172Ah which should take no more space, which would effectively last 3 times longer.

MTIA.

 

[Sackmycook]

I'm hoping to make a start on this shortly. I've looked at having a specialist undertake the works, but that will mean a day off and a fair amount of £££ labour, which I understand, given they need to remove, refit seats etc.

My question is, is it beyond the realms of a fairly competent DIYer to replace the AGM battery with Lithium, add a MPPT controller and fit a cable to connect to the portable solar panel? Will the new battery need coding.

In fact, another question. This weekend I plugged the compressor fridge into our Jackery Explorer 240, and then plugged SolarSaga 100W panel during the day and whilst the jackeryobviously went down overnight, in the morning it was back up to 100%. I also charged phones at various stages. With that in mind, is it worthtrialling just adding the MPPT controller andconnector cable, keeping the AGM battery in the first instance to see how that goes, before splashing out on a new battery? I've been recommended the Fogstar 172Ah which should take no more space, which would effectively last 3 times longer.

MTIA.

That's pretty much what I have done. Upgraded my Agm battery to a bigger one, added a solar controller and fly lead. All works well so far

 

[nomislotsirb]

That's pretty much what I have done. Upgraded my Agm battery to a bigger one, added a solar controller and fly lead. All works well so far

Thanks @Sackmycook, how did you code the battery, if required?

 

[Sackmycook]

Never did it ?

 

[doncarlyon]

Only the starter battery would need coding, not a leisure battery.

 

[Vinyl1210]

As yours is a day van I’m presuming you don’t have a pop top?
I have similar (albeit I do have a roof tent) so a more effective alternative WRT to power from solar would be to put on a couple of roof rack areo style cross bars and fix a rigid panel (180. - 200 watt ish) to the bars which can stay there period. Fit a solar controller (I use CTEK) and make up a small fly lead with Anderson connectors from the CTEK to pop out from under the seat. Then make an isolator and fly lead that connects from panel to Anderson on CTEK. when you arrive on site simply run it in through the window plug in a turn on. Also when LB is full the CTEK will charge the SB too. I have an OEM LB as I specced from new and that’s exactly what I did. I’d say IMHO that this would give better results and certainly the panel will have more longevity.
Yes I’m an electrical engineer/electrician by trade but for a competent DIYer the CTEK is a doddle to fit and making up the isolator is not difficult. (You do need crimpers and heat gun for heat shrink etc so may be easier for you and far more cost effective to get a local electrician to knock this up for you once you’ve got the bits).
See my post here.

V

Post in thread 'What Have You Done To Your Van Today?'

7 Aug 2025

Wired and fitted a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) with On/Off switch in my B Pillar Trim. It comes straight off the Solar connections on my CTEK 250 under the passenger seat. Fused in line with 1 Amp blade fuse (just incase the DVM has an eppy and goes s/c). Now when solar panel plugged in, I can quickly monitor the input voltage to the LB at the flick of a switch to ensure all is good. (I have a BM2 fitted also). Made up a lead with DC isolator with blade fuses tucked inside the isolator housing, and Anderson connectors at one end and MC4 the other. All covered in braid and heat shrink where...

• Vinyl1210

• 

See you are Bristol. I’m based Andover and can help if you are ever down this way

 

[GtiOli]

As yours is a day van I’m presuming you don’t have a pop top?
I have similar (albeit I do have a roof tent) so a more effective alternative WRT to power from solar would be to put on a couple of roof rack areo style cross bars and fix a rigid panel (180. - 200 watt ish) to the bars which can stay there period. Fit a solar controller (I use CTEK) and make up a small fly lead with Anderson connectors from the CTEK to pop out from under the seat. Then make an isolator and fly lead that connects from panel to Anderson on CTEK. when you arrive on site simply run it in through the window plug in a turn on. Also when LB is full the CTEK will charge the SB too. I have an OEM LB as I specced from new and that’s exactly what I did. I’d say IMHO that this would give better results and certainly the panel will have more longevity.
Yes I’m an electrical engineer/electrician by trade but for a competent DIYer the CTEK is a doddle to fit and making up the isolator is not difficult. (You do need crimpers and heat gun for heat shrink etc so may be easier for you and far more cost effective to get a local electrician to knock this up for you once you’ve got the bits).
See my post here.

V

Post in thread 'What Have You Done To Your Van Today?'

7 Aug 2025

Wired and fitted a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) with On/Off switch in my B Pillar Trim. It comes straight off the Solar connections on my CTEK 250 under the passenger seat. Fused in line with 1 Amp blade fuse (just incase the DVM has an eppy and goes s/c). Now when solar panel plugged in, I can quickly monitor the input voltage to the LB at the flick of a switch to ensure all is good. (I have a BM2 fitted also). Made up a lead with DC isolator with blade fuses tucked inside the isolator housing, and Anderson connectors at one end and MC4 the other. All covered in braid and heat shrink where...

• Vinyl1210

• 

See you are Bristol. I’m based Andover and can help if you are ever down this way

This is exactly what I have been thinking about, I don’t want to add a solar panel to the pop top full time as routing the cable will be hard as fully lined, and TBH I see so many people having failures. I do have the channels on the roof to accept bars I could 3D print some clips to hold a panel whilst onsite or have them on the floor in the sun and then run a connection lead through the window into my CTek. @Vinyl1210 you mention adding an isolator, can you advise the type, happy to let an electrician do it for me but prefer to know what I’m asking for lol!

 

[Vinyl1210]

can you advise the type

Certainly. I used this one. (See link at footer).

The reason you want an isolator (sorry if I’m teaching you to suck eggs) is that you do not want to disconnect the solar panel plugs when they are producing. (and or on load).

This is the type of isolator you may use for a domestic PV array.

You can add some in line blade fuses on +ve and -ve lines discreetly within the housing too.

I’ve seen debates about people saying ‘well that’s a bit large (physical size) and overkill for a single panel on a van. Just use a 20 A (or whatever rating) MCB ( like you’d find in your consumer unit at home).’ Some also argue as it’s rated for 230v what’s the problem

I agree with the aesthetics and siting it can be a PITA for some (as I say mine just sits in footwell when needed). But and it’s a big but…..

NO manufacturer will guarantee that their AC rated and designed MCB (breaker) will function correctly on a DC circuit. I deal with loads of manufacturers and I’ve rung Schneider, BG Electrical, Hager blah blah blah. All their technical support guys tell me “Yeah, I know why your asking and yes it may well be ok but we simply CANNOT state it will work correctly in a DC circuit as it’s only tested on AC and the parameters are completely different”.

Just thought I’d put this out there as from a DIY stance (Facebook experts) you will get some iffy advice, and the initial thought is why the hell has he fitted that big clumsy thing

I did try and track down a Two Pole DC rated MCB (as above it’s so much smaller) but just had no luck for the voltage I wanted and current rating).

HTH again apologies if you know all this.

Solar PV DC Isolation Switches | 12 Volt Planet

Solar PV DC isolation switches allowing you to disconnect & safely work on your system. For campervan, motorhomes, caravans boats & domestic installations.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk