Brake fluid

Jimmock

Member
VIP Member
T6 Pro
Hi guys, I’m needing to change my brake fluid. Is ATE SL6 good to use instead of VW 501 14 ? I need a complete change so probably 5ltrs will be required. The VW 501 14 is much more expensive and only available in 1ltr cans.
 
501 14 is a pretty regular ISO-4925 DOT4. Any DOT4 of decent quality easily exceeds that spec, including SL6.

Id be surprised if a complete change, including cycling the ABS pump (some sort of forcing tool requkred for that such as vcds), took as much as 2 litres to flush through and fill.
 
Thanks for your prompt reply. I was looking at a few comments on some older posts and it was suggested that ATE SL6 was the one to use. Also looking elsewhere some have said up to 4 ltrs required to fully flush the system. I did think that was a lot and once a 5ltr can is open I can’t really keep it for the next change in years to come.
 
Its not super expensive. Probably best to have a litre too much than a litre too little!
 
I’ve struggled to use a litre.

After (fighting) removal of the strainer in the master cylinder, I suck out the old fluid in the master cylinder with a syringe. Whatever you do do not touch / press the pedal once you’ve emptied the reservoir as you’ll pull in air.

Refill the reservoir with fresh DOT4 fluid and start the bleeding procedure. I always start with furthest first and work my way back.

If the clutch shares the same reservoir then bleed that too (last). This is always something omitted by the dealers / not covered by the schedule. To me it makes no sense to ignore a circuit which shares the same reservoir as the brakes as it will contaminate the new brake fluid with 3/6/9 year old brake fluid!?
 
I’ve struggled to use a litre.

After (fighting) removal of the strainer in the master cylinder, I suck out the old fluid in the master cylinder with a syringe. Whatever you do do not touch / press the pedal once you’ve emptied the reservoir as you’ll pull in air.

Refill the reservoir with fresh DOT4 fluid and start the bleeding procedure. I always start with furthest first and work my way back.

If the clutch shares the same reservoir then bleed that too (last). This is always something omitted by the dealers / not covered by the schedule. To me it makes no sense to ignore a circuit which shares the same reservoir as the brakes as it will contaminate the new brake fluid with 3/6/9 year old brake fluid!?
Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I’ll be using my brake bleeder kit that uses my compressor. It works as a vacuum with the pipe attached to the bleed nipple. I just need to keep topping up the reservoir 👍😊
 
Oooh - I use an Easy Bleed which uses a (20psi) tyre to push the fluid through. TBH it works but never been 100% satisfied with it as seems slow.

Interested in your kit @Jimmock - can you post a link?
 
I’ve struggled to use a litre.

After (fighting) removal of the strainer in the master cylinder, I suck out the old fluid in the master cylinder with a syringe. Whatever you do do not touch / press the pedal once you’ve emptied the reservoir as you’ll pull in air.

Refill the reservoir with fresh DOT4 fluid and start the bleeding procedure. I always start with furthest first and work my way back.

If the clutch shares the same reservoir then bleed that too (last). This is always something omitted by the dealers / not covered by the schedule. To me it makes no sense to ignore a circuit which shares the same reservoir as the brakes as it will contaminate the new brake fluid with 3/6/9 year old brake fluid!?
That strainer is a pain. I pulled it out with a pair of pliers in the end.

I’ve also only just about used a litre. I reckon if I’d pulled a litre through each caliper, I’d have been there all day and I use a Sealey VS pneumatic bleeder as well. The fluid level in mine had already dropped to minimum as the pads have worn. I emptied the reservoir and then topped up and I was seeing clean fluid quite quickly. It wasn’t that mucky to begin with
 
Back
Top