Search results for query: ignition live feed

That sounds like a problem with the ignition live feed and the chances are both units are using the same wiring. When the HU turns off are you able to turn it back on using the power button?

I used a fuse tap from a heavy permanent live fuse into a relay which is switched on from an ignition feed so the seat can only work when ignition is on if you want it to work all the time don’t use the relay. If I lived closer ( I am in Bognor Regis) I would give you a hand I should say I am...

Recommendation on how best to tidy all these pig tails up ? Can I simplify it ? Do I need three pig tails looking for ignition/switch live ? Orange wire look like it goes under drivers seat, another is for a dash cam, another is for main stereo video feed.

Your challenge is going to be the ignition live aspect, there are a few high current options under the seat in standard wiring but nothing ignition switched. A 500w inverter is going to be about 50A draw on the 12v DC side. Anything over 30A is non trivial electrical work as a rule of thumb...

If your Kombi has a factory-fitted auxiliary battery then you can pick up an engine-run signal from the split charge relay (SCR) trigger wire (the thin grey wire shown in the pictures below). This wire connects to the SCR via the small plug (shown disconnected from the SCR).

They will be tapped into an ignition feed in the fuse box beside the battery. All the ignition lives in that fuse box stay live for 20-30 secs after you remove your key. Mines does the same

Thanks Howzat. No it won't switch back on using the head unit buttons. I have to pull over, then switch ignition off and then back on to resume normal play. Any ideas? Cheers

I've got a T6.1 kombi and trying to work out the best way to add a usb charging point (ideally ignition cut off) to either the rear seats or rear boot area. Only feed seems to be to the lights which are I assume only on a switched live. I'd love to avoid having to mess about too much, firstly...

That's what I've done, no shutdown detection, just the engine signal into the H Port. That bridge is just a simple switch - if it's connected between H and L then the Orion will be on and ready to charge. So you'll need to remove the small wire and add your van engine signal until the H port...

Yeah it was for an ignition live, I have piggy backed on Fuse 17 in the engine bay fuse box, but sounds like you did something different

I've got a dashcam / Android Auto unit mounted on top of the dash and plugged into the 12v outlet conveniently next to it. This is a permanent live so I have to pull the plug when I've finished with it to avoid the c. 80mA drain. Can I easily convert this socket to an ignition feed? I've read...

Ignition signal is normally taken from the centre section of the dash fusebox that is ignition switched. There are generally no switched feeds under the seats unless you have the factory second battery, or full factory 13pin towing electrics and are willing to configure things with VCDS...

...mentioned alongside the Start/Stop and load shedding during engine start. But for the purposes of triggering a DC-DC charger and ignition live feed is usually sufficient. The thing to remember is it will be putting a load on your starter whenever the ignition is on, even if the engine isn't...

It's not the board under the seat - there is (almost*) no ignition live there. For Dashcams you want to go for the fusebox in the middle of the dash, lots of thread around on this. * if you have a factory fit second battery there will be a "charge" signal and if you have a factory fit towbar...

Bottom pic is a bit blurry but the two little wires coming out of ctec are only about 4 inch long and go nowhere. I originally saw a thin red wire on the + terminal and thought that was it , I know realise that's the live ignition feed

Sorry for what? I have forgotten how I installed them however if it was an ignition live then I already had various spares I had installed myself triggered from a relay under the pasenger seat feeding to a seperate fuse box above the battery.

no other way round. . . IGN ON cam ON - IGN OFF CAM OFF. that stopped it running the starter flat as it was only on when the engine was running. now everything is connected to the LB. - and runs 24/7 USB chargers WIFI point dash cam cctv etc etc...

Hey - I have the same camera and the same problem. I had to turn parking mode off otherwise after 2-3 days the van battery would be flat. If you connect it to the leisure battery i assume it will just be on 24/7 as that will not have a "switched" live feed to it? Or maybe it will.... I...

Probably been asked a thousand times, but I'm just connecting the ignition feed. Says in the manual from Renogy, if voltage is between 12.5v- 13.5vdc then it's a Smart Alternator, if it's 14.7vdc it's probably a normal one. I've 2015 T6 Bluemotion 102 non adblue so think Euro 5 and I'm getting...

Nice hack! I've been considering something similar for T6 but to get ignition switched power *from* leisure battery. I was thinking of adding a separate relay that would be fed either from original split-charge feed or from the trailer relay activation (T6 still has a relay for trailer...