Search results for query: Sump Removal

Could you rest knowing it is there? I know it would play on my mind. For the time and effort it takes to remove the sump I would be removing it and getting it out.

Defective belt tension caused by defective alternator pulley clutch. Plenty of youtube videos showing how to check the pulley clutch operation. Best done through the RH (UK offside) front wheel arch with the liner removed but probably possible from under the van with the sump guard off (if...

I use a Lazer 6ltr oil extractor, I removed the oil in two stages, emptied it after 4ltrs had be extracted and removed the the remaining oil. I then removed the sump plug to empty any residue oil. Note when removing the oil filter housing there is a central plastic bolt which drains the filter...

Sorry I do not think I have removed a sump from any of those models. I will ask a friend who may have done.

All euro5 tdi engines suffer with oil pump hex drive failure. Its Hex shaft 75mm for up to 2009 and 100mm up to 2015. Within some time one end gets rounded and it cant spin oil pump fast enough and you get Low Oil Pressure light. Old shaft had hole inside so you can undo clip, put screw in to...

Right, so I have found the regulating valve and its as mentioned previously, just above the front engine mount. The mount needs to be removed.. I have also found the problem, the value body was broken. The long thin piece is stuck inside the block and the back piece came out. Please, does...

Yeah those sump bolts can be a bit of a pain on these. The manual says to remove the flywheel, but in reality some people manage it by turning the engine and lining things up so you can sneak a tool in through the gap. It’s fiddly and takes a bit of patience, but it can save a lot of work...

so it sounds like its not burning oil in the classic sense a la worn engine (ie blue smoke screen if using 2 litres in 400 miles ) but rather its consuming the engine oil as its "fuel" via the worn turbo shaft. be wary of a runaway situation if its sucking those quantities out of the sump ...

I genuinely don't know if this could be catastrophic or even sucked into the oil pickup, but if it was me I'd drop the oil and pop a small magnet on a piece of wire into the sump via the drain hole and have a good fish around - I'm pretty sure the sump is alloy.

Flushing the engine with clean oil is an added expense and leaves you with more oil to dispose of. I'm not convinced that it serves a purpose. I get the engine up to operating temp then drop the oil through the sump plug, remove the old oil filter and leave it to drain for at least 15 minutes...

...is coming from, I'm thinking either clutch seal side or the front of sump join. I guess if I dropped the sump and could re-seal and then also see if oil is coming from the crankshaft oil seal as the sump removal exposes some of the flywheel area? Oil appears to come from somewhere in the...

The sump is a 24hr job. As per the VW book. Drain, remove, clean. Then apply sealant and leave 12hrs to set. Only After that .... refill with oil. Then get engine to operation temperature and check for leaks. .... My leak was very slight.... But enough to make the sump area look damp...

Nothing can be done, but the seals have been revised and the replacement will last longer.... Hopefully. (Regular driving and oil changes would help if assume) It's a plastic part, there are some ideas about how they start leaking, but ultimately it's a rubber shaft seal that wears and starts...

I do the same.......but I just watched something that says getting the oil hot first is a waste of time with modern synthetic oil! I'll still be dropping hot oil!!

To finish off this thread for anyone interested in the future, I have attached some pictures of the rear main seal replacement which turned out to be quite a simple procedure. All that was needed was a new RMS (£27 from Autodoc) and RMS installation tool (£32 from eBay) and a crank pulley TDC...

...removed a sump from a 2.0 but would expect it to be very similar to 1.9. The fly wheel can be rotated and there is a slot to make it easier to get to the bolts. They are usually torx and you can use a torx bit rather than a socket. There will be plenty of you tube video for sump removal on a 2.0.

@Algypan how easy was removing the sump? Looks like a few difficult to access 10mm bolts by the gearbox/flywheel

It kept having an intermittent actuator fault. The turbo place said it throws that fault when the VNT gets sticky. It was getting on, as the van has got 176000 miles behind it, so I’ve changed it along with the inlet manifold, EGR, and a new charge air cooler, as the mounts were broken or...

Not got the time this morning, i am heading to work shortly. I got as far as getting the lower engine/sump cover off, nothing untoward visually especially around turbo, I haven’t got it up on ramps etc yet though access is limited. Without removing bumper to get full access to intercooler what...

On my van it looks like it is part of the inner guard. There are a few different part numbers depending on the year, so you will need to verify which part of the underbody it is actually attached to. There is also a posting on this forum on replacing it, but it doesn't sound very straight...