Upgrading H4s headlights to full LED headlights - programming high beams?

S

Skipp

Member
I recently purchased full LED headlight units to replace the factory headlights, which originally had H4 bulbs. These new headlights are advertised as plug-and-play, but the seller mentioned that programming might be necessary for the high beam if the factory units used H4 bulbs. To avoid any coding challenges , the seller offered an optional adaptor, which I decided to go for.

The lights arrived yesterday and they look great. However, I encountered a small issue - there were no instructions included for the adaptors. I've attached a picture of them for reference. They seem like they should be plugged in between the headlights and the original plug, with the little dongle connected to one of the loose ends (it only fits one of them).

I'm unsure if this setup is for programming purposes only and can be disconnected afterward, or if it's meant to stay permanently in place. I'd rather not take any chances and end up with loose wires in the car. I've contacted the seller by email, but since it's the weekend, I don't expect a response anytime soon.

Does anyone here have any information on this? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

IMG_4424.jpg
 
Do you have a link to the place you bought them from? Or a photo of the headlight units?
There is a very detailed thread about swapping to LEDs that’s stickied up in this subcategory.
www.t6forum.com

T6 OEM LED-headlight retrofit

I had HazzyDayz do the LED upgrade for me last week. Amazing the difference.
www.t6forum.com www.t6forum.com
 
I didn't intend to promote any shops here, which is why I didn't include any links, but this is the picture of the unit:

t6.jpg
 
I’m not familiar with those units. Are they t6.1?
I am interested to see where they came from. I’m currently amassing parts for a light swap myself for a 2019 T6.
 
these are full LEDs for t6 with T6.1 look :) I think they are relatively new and supposed to be plug and play (other than the issue I mentioned). So far reviews have been quite good. Also supposed to have all necessary European certifications, but I will be able to confirm that after my next annual inspection. Cost in the 1000Eur range.
 
Thanks for the link on the previous threads - overwhelming amount of info, but too in-depth. This is supposed to be relatively easy solution. I'm mostly wondering about these things: 1. what functionality would be affected if I don't program or attach the adaptor? (I'm thinking it's the ability to have high and low beams on at the same time) 2. how to attach the adaptor (I mentioned my guess in the post above) and 3. Do I need to leave the adaptor and dongle plugged in or is it only for re-coding and can be removed after update is complete?
 
I know you don’t want to promote a manufacturer but you might be able to attract the response you’re after a bit easier by stating these are GBrite T6 LED Headlights in the title. That way the people with these already fitted will most likely open the thread & help :)
 
I just remembered an older thread where I had seen someone with these. Sure enough, @CarreraRSR has them & with any luck might be able to assist…
 
I think the normal H4 behaviour is to turn the low beam off when the high beam is on to save power. You probably don't want that with LED as it they tend to have very precise beam shapes and rely on the low beam staying on.

Normally you would change the behaviour in the coding.

The adapters look like they are probably just a heat shrink covered high power diode to cascade the high beam line to the low beam line one way to replicate the coding behaviour. As such they would need to be in place all the time.

I'm assuming that the other connections are unused - in which case that leaves a lot of wiring without environmental protection. I'd really suggest going the coding route, the tools are useful to read error codes and you may find other forum members with them near enough to help (I've spotted a few Finnish members) If not then protect the connections as much as you can with heat shrink, water has a way of wicking up the cable if not and causing no end of issues.
 
T6Plumber said:
I know you don’t want to promote a manufacturer but you might be able to attract the response you’re after a bit easier by stating these are GBrite T6 LED Headlights in the title. That way the people with these already fitted will most likely open the thread & help :)
Click to expand...
As far as I know these are not branded and there a number of online shops selling them. I have PMed everyone who wanted to get links to the stores. Let me know if you need links :)

roadtripper said:
I think the normal H4 behaviour is to turn the low beam off when the high beam is on to save power. You probably don't want that with LED as it they tend to have very precise beam shapes and rely on the low beam staying on.

Normally you would change the behaviour in the coding.

The adapters look like they are probably just a heat shrink covered high power diode to cascade the high beam line to the low beam line one way to replicate the coding behaviour. As such they would need to be in place all the time.

I'm assuming that the other connections are unused - in which case that leaves a lot of wiring without environmental protection. I'd really suggest going the coding route, the tools are useful to read error codes and you may find other forum members with them near enough to help (I've spotted a few Finnish members) If not then protect the connections as much as you can with heat shrink, water has a way of wicking up the cable if not and causing no end of issues.
Click to expand...
thanks, roadtripper! Sounds plausible and makes a lot of sense! I definitely don't like the idea of unnecessary loose wires and 'hacky' solutions 'mimicking' anything, so coding sounds like the way to go. As today has gone by quickly, I'll wait for the answer from the seller and if they confirm this, I will skip the 'adaptors' and go for the coding solution.

roadtripper said:
I think the normal H4 behaviour is to turn the low beam off when the high beam is on to save power. You probably don't want that with LED as it they tend to have very precise beam shapes and rely on the low beam staying on.

Normally you would change the behaviour in the coding.

The adapters look like they are probably just a heat shrink covered high power diode to cascade the high beam line to the low beam line one way to replicate the coding behaviour. As such they would need to be in place all the time.

I'm assuming that the other connections are unused - in which case that leaves a lot of wiring without environmental protection. I'd really suggest going the coding route, the tools are useful to read error codes and you may find other forum members with them near enough to help (I've spotted a few Finnish members) If not then protect the connections as much as you can with heat shrink, water has a way of wicking up the cable if not and causing no end of issues.
Click to expand...
...how do I find members by country? New to the form and didn't know there was such option
 
As @Ads_Essex links to there is a map of VCDS users willing to help (also on this thread) and they have a "VCDS User" badge.

In general if you click on a user's name you can see the country in their profile.

Also if you start a thread asking for help and mention where you are you'll often find folks willing to lend a hand if they can.
 
Just to clarify linking of products to things you have bought and/or have questions about is absolutely fine the only restrictions are for businesses that are promoting their own products and services for financial gain
 
Lights not installed, so nothing to share in that respect, unfortunately. Can share two very different experiences with two online stores that sell these lights though. I ordered 2 pairs. They look exactly identical, but first pair did not have a dynamic option (my oversight when ordering), so unfortunately opted to return that pair. The shop was Licther-Profi in Germany. They, understandably, weren't too happy about the hassle even though I was prepared to cover all shipping costs, but they handled everything quickly and professionally. The other pair, with the dynamic option, came from Dejavu cars in Netherlands - a much less pleasant customer service experience with those guys. Upon delivery discovered numerous problems with the lights - scratched lenses, pieces of trash inside one of the lenses, sealant leaking from seams all over the place and corroded elements. In response to my question about these quality issues and possibility to replace with another pair, they replied that this type of quality is normal for aftermarket parts and if I don't like it I can return it at my own expense. :oops: So, if anyone looking for sh*t quality aftermarket parts - now you now know where to go..
 
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