Wiring connections for Ring RSCDC30 charger

superchargedpolo

Senior Member
T6 Pro
I am about to fit the above Ring battery to battery charger to a friends van. I need some suitable crimp connections for the wires. I have taken a photo of the screw down apertures. What sort of crimp have people used to do this job.

Thanks in advance.
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You don't need them with those connectors.. Or use the fork type if wanted...

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To my mind, the solid pins don't grip, as the clamp is smooth, as are the pins.. The contact area is also small.. But each to their own.. I'm not doing the job..
 
@superchargedpolo looks like you stuck that last one up as I was typing. They are the same as what I have on the stranded cable that goes into the consumer unit in my van. They are certainly what Travelvolts uses as he gave me a few.
 
@superchargedpolo looks like you stuck that last one up as I was typing. They are the same as what I have on the stranded cable that goes into the consumer unit in my van. They are certainly what Travelvolts uses as he gave me a few.

:eek: Best I go and check my household consumer unit the... :rofl::rofl:
 
The crimp connection to cable is another point of resistance.. And in this case an unecessary one..

Are home consumer units wired using crimps nowadays, or straight into these screw down blocks? As that's 240/3phase, and higher amps, and this is a mere 12volts system, all be it 30amps odd..

Over to the Sparks....
 
Google bootlace ferrules as per the pic above, similar connector but the cable goes inside the point of entry rather than the crimp extending out from the end of the cable, these do require a unique crimper though but for the size of cables you are looking at not overly expensive
 
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The crimp connection to cable is another point of resistance.. And in this case an unecessary one..

Are home consumer units wired using crimps nowadays, or straight into these screw down blocks? As that's 240/3phase, and higher amps, and this is a mere 12volts system, all be it 30amps odd..

Over to the Sparks....
Perhaps the difference is that 240v systems use solid core cable? I dunno not a sparky.
 
Google bootlace ferrules as per the pic above, similar connector but the cable goes inside the point of entry rather than the crimp extending out from the end of the cable, these do require a unique crimped though but for the size of cables you are looking at not overly expensive
That's exactly what I was trying to refer to, cool to know the name of them.
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Sorry, don't see the advantage over a solder of the exposed cable if required...
 
Perhaps the difference is that 240v systems use solid core cable? I dunno not a sparky.
The reason for the multi strand cable in automotive use is to stop fatigue through vibration, and easier conformability and reliability. As well as threading of multi cable looms in the manufacturing stage..
 
Ferrules are normally used on stranded cables in control panels and connectors that are taken in and out for testing and commissioning to reduce the risk of splaying and shorts etc.
On a large 6mm cable in this situation I normally just tin(solder) the ends.
 
Ferrules are normally used on stranded cables in control panels and connectors that are taken in and out for testing and commissioning to reduce the risk of splaying and shorts etc.
On a large 6mm cable in this situation I normally just tin(solder) the ends.

Likewise and my RSCDC30 is working well including with a 100W Solar panel attached.
 
Sometimes you can get too involved.. As mentioned before, solder is more than adequate.. No loose crimps etc, less resistance problems, as less joints...
 
I disagree with the solder option as it does not allow the conductors to conform to the shape of the terminal and presents a limited surface which in extreme cases can be a point of high resistance. The ferules are the best option.
 
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