Which monitor for 160W solar?

Outcycling

Member
T6 Pro
Hi,
Im just putting together a wiring system for my new T6 LWB conversion. Was probably going to put in a CTEK 250SE (with a 160W solar panel) as it seems to be well recommended but wasn't sure what monitor to use on the system. Didn't want to spend the earth and don't care about bluetooth. Would just like a display in the van that shows the state of the battery and the current Amp input/output. If it could also show the state of the car battery as well that'd be nice. Any thoughts ? When I looked online I couldn't find anything on this but the one that came up to buy was the Nasa Marine BM-1 Clipper Battery Monitor (12v). ?
Thanks all.
Russ
 
Hi,

Thanks for the reply.

I've had a look at them and the 700 etc and while good they seem expensive but I guess there is not a lot of competition.

The AiLi voltmeter Ammeter 80V 350A (on Amazon) at £45 seems to offer the same 'main' functionality & work in the same way via a shunt but the 700 does have some interesting extra bits of info that could be useful.

Thanks.

AiLi -
  • State of Charge (%),The remaining battery capacity (AH). Charge and discharge current (A), Voltage (V).
  • Charging status indicator, looks like a smartphone.

700 -
- Battery voltage
- Battery state of charge (%)
- Charge / discharge current (A) and power (W): Flowing into/out of the battery
- Amp hours consumed by the battery
- ‘Time-to-go: time left until battery requires charging

An in-depth data log also records historical values such as the highest/ lowest recorded voltages, deepest recorded discharge, time since last full discharge, cumulative Amp hours drawn, time since last full charge, total energy charged/discharged and more.
 
There's no excuse for a contemporary design to use shunts for current measurement, it's poor design particularly for high-current monitors. Hall sensors like the ACS758 are more accurate, more granular, and have no voltage drop. JMHO ;)
Cheers
Phil
 
Bit more info here...


.
 
Just back from camping for three days off hook up. Used newly installed Victron Smart Shunt 500A to keep an eye on things. Very happy with the app and monitor information.
TN Power 100A lithium Renogy 50A DC-DC and a Photonic Universe 160w panel. Generous use of lights, fridge, heater and charging all the phones and devices for four people. The SOC never went below 83%. The solar just about managed to keep up with the Vitrifrigo 20l chest fridge and the heater dragged things down a bit. Felt confident that it was all under control either the Smartshunt
 
There's no excuse for a contemporary design to use shunts for current measurement, it's poor design particularly for high-current monitors. Hall sensors like the ACS758 are more accurate, more granular, and have no voltage drop. JMHO ;)
Cheers
Phil
Thanks, you've given me another arduino project idea. Just off to read up about this sensor now :thumbsup:
 
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I’ve had NASA BM1 in previous t5 and current t6 van. Got 100w solar, nowt else fancy. Always been reliable enough for me to judge what is going on with leisure battery.
 
Bit more info here...


.
Blimey Dell, you’re somewhat into your battery monitoring :) thanks for the thread link, interesting reading. While I think the Bluetooth is all very nice, for day to day I think you just want a nice looking display somewhere that’s easy to cast an eye over. The simple inline monitor for solar is good as well although I guess a kill switch for the rest of the system would mean whatever is on the main monitor display is coming from the solar anyway.
Thanks.
 
Just back from camping for three days off hook up. Used newly installed Victron Smart Shunt 500A to keep an eye on things. Very happy with the app and monitor information.
TN Power 100A lithium Renogy 50A DC-DC and a Photonic Universe 160w panel. Generous use of lights, fridge, heater and charging all the phones and devices for four people. The SOC never went below 83%. The solar just about managed to keep up with the Vitrifrigo 20l chest fridge and the heater dragged things down a bit. Felt confident that it was all under control either the Smartshunt
Hi, what monitor did you get with the smart shunt ? I’m currently looking at the CTEK 250se but see you went for the Renogy 50A. The Renogy can be got for a lot less but I was told 20A is better to avoid damaging the battery ? How come you went for the 50A? Is that cos you have lithium ion batteries?
 
Hi, what monitor did you get with the smart shunt ? I’m currently looking at the CTEK 250se but see you went for the Renogy 50A. The Renogy can be got for a lot less but I was told 20A is better to avoid damaging the battery ? How come you went for the 50A? Is that cos you have lithium ion batteries?
The Victron Smartshunt uses a smartphone to display the data. There is no external display. I have a USB socket with a voltmeter display on the switched side of my system. This gives a quick check and also serves to indicate if the camper electrics are on.
Yes. The TN Power lithium will suck up loads of charge very quickly which the Renogy can deliver if it is wired up with a cut off switch on the solar side. @Dellmassive has loads of good threads on DC-DC and Solar. A lot of my stuff was bought after reading his posts and others on here.
Nothing wrong with the CTEK AFAIK but I have only ever used the Renogy. Not so important but the Renogy is also very neat and hides all its connections under covers. It fits perfectly at the front of the seat base and you can see the LEDs it uses for status.
 
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