Where Is The Vw Split Charge Fuse?

t0mb0

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Hi,

I have a factory leisure battery under the passenger seat and am in the process of fitting a DC-DC charger. There is an existing 80amp fuse on the leisure battery side of the existing split charge relay and I assume there is also a fuse protecting the cable to the relay from the starter battery. Does anyone know where this fuse is? I want to know as I need to put a fuse in of the correct spec for the DC-DC unit (and because removing it would be a convenient way of cutting the power whilst I fit the DC-DC unit).

I've looked around the starter battery and the fuse panel in the centre lower dash but can't see anything that looks like it could be it.

Thanks very much!

Tom
 

Dellmassive

204 T32 DSG LWB SPORTLINE PV MY18
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The feed comes from one of the big strip fuses in the Fuse box next to the battery in the engine bay.

Out at Brands Hatch ATM so will get you a pic or diagram later.

Unless someone else gets one in the meantime.
 

t0mb0

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The feed comes from one of the big strip fuses in the Fuse box next to the battery in the engine bay.

Out at Brands Hatch ATM so will get you a pic or diagram later.

Unless someone else gets one in the meantime.
Awesome, thanks! I must have missed the fuse box by the starter battery. I’ll go and have another look...
 

Pauly

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It’s in the E-box which is directly underneath the battery
If you remove the main engine battery you will see a metal plate with circa 10 bolts fixing it down remove this bolts and lift the lid off and you will see all the main fuses for fuse boxes/starter etc
 

t0mb0

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It’s in the E-box which is directly underneath the battery
If you remove the main engine battery you will see a metal plate with circa 10 bolts fixing it down remove this bolts and lift the lid off and you will see all the main fuses for fuse boxes/starter etc
Really, it’s actually under the battery??? I guess that’s the kind of engineering you expect from a company that puts in a split charge where current actually flows out of the battery you’re trying to charge...
 

Dellmassive

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They are massive fuses and not really expected to blow at any point unless there is a massive cable fault. Ie Road Crash.

so they are not accessible.

as @Pauly mentioned, they are tricky to get to . . . . . but you should never have to!

1-l225.jpg


For the purpose of fitting your kit. The best solution is, as always - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL.



Take a look at the wiring diagram: Second battery wiring diagram


and here for the location and description: VW T6 Fusebox - Fusebox/Fuse Chart SA - Primary Battery Fusebox


and here to become a VIP member to access all the downloads and good stuff and help the forum:

VIP Membership | VW T6 Forum - The Dedicated VW Transporter T6 Forum

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t0mb0

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Ah ok. The DC-DC unit specs a smaller fuse on the input but the factory one is sufficient to protect the cable. I guess I can always add a smaller one on the other end to protect the unit itself.
 

t0mb0

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Actually, the instructions seem to imply the fuse is purely for cable protection - I should just be able to hook it straight up.
 

Dellmassive

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what DC-DC charger you using?

The OEM factory supply fuse is a Large 80A and a 100A relay on ours (under the passenger bench), which is fed from the main 100A battery box fuses?

we are using a Redarc BCDC1240-LV DC-DC connected to the 80Amp incoming supply fuse (just put the Redarc in place of the OEM Relay and fitted additional fusing etc).

and fitted and additional fuse between the DC-DC and the Aux battery.

20180430_184807.jpg

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and the after effect with Redarc fitted and new additional fuse box. (original fuse and relay & carrier removed . . .

20180810_184313.jpg

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t0mb0

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Yep, that's my plan I think - I'll definitely just reuse the existing fuse holder for the aux battery connection.

The DC-DC unit is a Votronic 3324. I got that one because it's very compact and I've got a Votronic MPPT solar controller that I'm happy with.

I'm going to fit an additional changeover relay to cut the feed from the solar controller when the engine is running so it cleanly switches between solar when the engine is off and the DC-DC when the engine is on.
 

Dellmassive

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The install PDF calls for a 50A incomming and a 40A outgoing fuse.

so the existing 80A fuse could be down graded or just left as is.....



Votronic 3324 Battery-to-battery charger VCC 1212-30

w! VCC 1212 - 30 Cable Cross-section Cable Length "+ IN" to "+ START" "Fuse 2" Cable Protection Cable Length "– OUT" to "– BOARD" Cable Length "+ OUT" to "+ BOARD" "Fuse 1" Cable Protection 6 mm² up to 3.5 m 50 A 0.8 … 2.0 m 0.8 … 2.0 m 40 A 10 mm² up to 6 m 50 A 1.5 … 3.0 m 1.5 … 3.0 m 40 A 16 mm² up to 10 m 50 A 2.5 … 5.0 m 2.5 … 5.0 m 40 A

The install PDF calls for a 50A incomming and a 40A outgoing fuse.

Votronic 3324 Battery-to-battery charger VCC 1212-30

https://www.roadpro.co.uk/userfiles...5065 - 3324_ VCC 1212-30 oGT ab 04-2018_e.pdf

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t0mb0

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Yep, I've been reading that. The diagram implies in the incoming fuse is only for cable protection so I think I'm fine with the factory fuse there.
 

Salty Spuds

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I fitted a sterling power 40A B2B charger to my T5.1. I just put the charger in series between the existing factory split charge relay & the second battery, simples!
 

t0mb0

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Yeah, I would do that, except the Votronic unit has the facility to trickle charge the starter from solar/hookup so I’m going to remove the relay and hook it up direct.
 
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