Wheelarch tank

[McFlude]

I am just about to order a 24 litre wheelarch tank but thought that I would ask if anyone else has fitted one to see if there are any snags that I haven't considered before I press the button. The bit that rests on the floor is 180 mm and it looks like it could be quite a tight fit between the wheelarch and the rear wall of the wardrobe if I use a standard Evo design.

 

[Ads_Essex]

I am just about to order a 24 litre wheelarch tank but thought that I would ask if anyone else has fitted one to see if there are any snags that I haven't considered before I press the button. The bit that rests on the floor is 180 mm and it looks like it could be quite a tight fit between the wheelarch and the rear wall of the wardrobe if I use a standard Evo design.

Unless you’re seeking a deep wardrobe, it’s a good use of space. It’ll be easy to fill up without the need to drill holes in the panel, too.

@Nigel W and @CrickCampers have mentioned these tanks before, so they may be able to advise

 

[Nigel W]

I am just about to order a 24 litre wheelarch tank but thought that I would ask if anyone else has fitted one to see if there are any snags that I haven't considered before I press the button. The bit that rests on the floor is 180 mm and it looks like it could be quite a tight fit between the wheelarch and the rear wall of the wardrobe if I use a standard Evo design.

Unless you’re seeking a deep wardrobe, it’s a good use of space. It’ll be easy to fill up without the need to drill holes in the panel, too.

@Nigel W and @CrickCampers have mentioned these tanks before, so they may be able to advise

Sorry but I can’t assist as mine was fitted by converter and he didn’t use Evo furniture

 

[McFlude]

After much deliberation I purchased a wheelarch tank for my on board potable water storage. I would like to fit a level gauge to monitor the content especially when filling it. I need to fit a 400 mm sender to connect to a gauge but they all have large fixing plates but there is limited room due to the position of the large access cap in the tank. I contacted Wyedale who manufactured the tank and asked if they could recommend a suitable sender but they said that it is not something that they had considered or get involved in. I find it frustrating that during their design process they hadn't thought about this rather basic requirement which would easily be solved by moving the access hatch a few centimetres to allow space to fix a sender

Has anyone fitted a sender and gauge to one of these tanks?

 

[Nigel W]

I’m not sure which wheelarch tank the converter has fitted to mine but the level gauge is a Sargent, link below

Water Sensors and Dump Valves | Shop | Sargent Electrical

 

[DXX]

An alternative to a level gauge is a flowmeter. When the tank is full reset the flowmeter counter and you then know how much water is consumed and how much remains in the tank, far more accurate.
I have a level gauge on a different tank type, the calibration isn’t linear or accurate, I have 18L left in the tank when it goes into alarm mode.

 

[McFlude]

An alternative to a level gauge is a flowmeter. When the tank is full reset the flowmeter counter and you then know how much water is consumed and how much remains in the tank, far more accurate.
I have a level gauge on a different tank type, the calibration isn’t linear or accurate, I have 18L left in the tank when it goes into alarm mode.

That is an alternative to consider. I assume that the flowmeter is fitted on the outlet side.
My main fear though is overfilling as it is only a 24 litre tank and I will have no overflow fitted. I was hoping to install a gauge at the rear of the wardrobe to monitor the filling process electronically when filling. I think that I may be able to adapt (butcher) the flange around the top of the commercially available senders and was hoping that someone might have had some successful butchery experience

 

[DXX]

That is an alternative to consider. I assume that the flowmeter is fitted on the outlet side.
My main fear though is overfilling as it is only a 24 litre tank and I will have no overflow fitted. I was hoping to install a gauge at the rear of the wardrobe to monitor the filling process electronically when filling. I think that I may be able to adapt (butcher) the flange around the top of the commercially available senders and was hoping that someone might have had some successful butchery experience

I would fit an overflow, mains water pressure will easily damage a tank if not vented and if you spill inside the van it could end up under the floor.
It would need to be vented anyway as you can’t pump water out without allowing air in.
Yes the flow meter would be on the feed to the tap.

 

[Another planet]

That is an alternative to consider. I assume that the flowmeter is fitted on the outlet side.
My main fear though is overfilling as it is only a 24 litre tank and I will have no overflow fitted. I was hoping to install a gauge at the rear of the wardrobe to monitor the filling process electronically when filling. I think that I may be able to adapt (butcher) the flange around the top of the commercially available senders and was hoping that someone might have had some successful butchery experience

Hi, did you ever manage to figure this out. I would like to fit 24 litre wheel arch water tank but have the same overfilling concern

 

[DXX]

Hi, did you ever manage to figure this out. I would like to fit 24 litre wheel arch water tank but have the same overfilling concern

There’s a slam vent at the bottom of each D pillar. I suggest putting a bulkhead fitting in the highest point of the tank with a hose routed through the slam vent.
You can put a check valve in the hose and it will only vent excessive water and not admit air, if you leave the check valve out it will do both.
If you want a clean air source to admit air add a T piece in the first hose with a check valve that will only admit air, this should be inside the van with the open ended hose at high level.

 

[McFlude]

Hi, did you ever manage to figure this out. I would like to fit 24 litre wheel arch water tank but have the same overfilling concern

It has been a long and winding road and probably gave me more problems than any other part of the build in trying to find information. I find it very frustrating that the manufacturers of these tanks don't seem to have considered all the issues of actually making the installation work properly. They need to position the drain outlet in the side and the access hatch needs to be situated further along the top of the tank to allow a sender to be positioned in the deepest part of the tank.
I ended up with a long CBE sender fitted into the access hatch lid. I had to seal the recesses in the lid with copious amounts of black bonding (Puraflex) and fitted a couple of bits of 6 mm dowel in the top of the sender to allow me to unscrew the lid and sender by hand. The sender is wired to my CBE control panel which shows the level in the tank. I had a devils own job getting the correct wiring which took months to sort out but that is another story. (It should come as part of the CBE kit but if you have similar problems let me know as I have the part number and supplier info)
I ordered the sender from Leisure Lines who advised that it can be used to monitor up to 500 mm deep tanks. When it came it was much shorter, about 350 mm from memory, but Leisure Lines assured me that it would send a signal down to the full depth. I am still waiting for that signal to arrive!
So far I have only carried tests by filling a measured amount of 10 litres and emptying and seeing how this affects the reading on the control. It seems that it is only marginally accurate as the initial reading showed with varying amounts each time. I believe that it will not show a progressive indication of the water level in specific levels (say in 1/3rds) but at least it will give enough of an indication for me. This is fine as we tend to use bottled water for drinking and I shall usually only have the tank half full anyway. I shall probably monitor the input by decanting from a jerry can anyway but my concern was always not knowing how much would have been left in the tank when filling.
I fitted a vent to the top corner with spider protection by covering the end with a fabric which allows the passage of air that I used when veneering. It has occurred to me though that I could easily extend this tube so that it could be temporarily placed outside the van or into a bowl when filling if I wanted to be absolutely sure that I didn't overfill.
I didn't want to leave water in the tank over the winter as I have had past experience of black algae forming so I ran the tank "dry" with the pump and siphoned and mopped out the remaining 0.75 litre by removing the access hatch. This was quite successful and took very little time to do.
Just for the record, the sink that I used had a tap which didn't have a micro-switch to operate the pump and I got over that problem by using a Whale pressure flow switch. (Another issue that I fussed over for many weeks)
I have waffled on as I wanted to describe my experience and give as much information to help anyone considering a similar installation. It was hard going at times but I think that the overall result has been a success as it frees up so much space. (I have posted pictures of the (nearly) finished conversion on the site if you are interested and looking for any other ideas.

 

[Another planet]

There’s a slam vent at the bottom of each D pillar. I suggest putting a bulkhead fitting in the highest point of the tank with a hose routed through the slam vent.
You can put a check valve in the hose and it will only vent excessive water and not admit air, if you leave the check valve out it will do both.
If you want a clean air source to admit air add a T piece in the first hose with a check valve that will only admit air, this should be inside the van with the open ended hose at high level.

Thank you very much for this. Looks like my slam vents have been covered

It has been a long and winding road and probably gave me more problems than any other part of the build in trying to find information. I find it very frustrating that the manufacturers of these tanks don't seem to have considered all the issues of actually making the installation work properly. They need to position the drain outlet in the side and the access hatch needs to be situated further along the top of the tank to allow a sender to be positioned in the deepest part of the tank.
I ended up with a long CBE sender fitted into the access hatch lid. I had to seal the recesses in the lid with copious amounts of black bonding (Puraflex) and fitted a couple of bits of 6 mm dowel in the top of the sender to allow me to unscrew the lid and sender by hand. The sender is wired to my CBE control panel which shows the level in the tank. I had a devils own job getting the correct wiring which took months to sort out but that is another story. (It should come as part of the CBE kit but if you have similar problems let me know as I have the part number and supplier info)
I ordered the sender from Leisure Lines who advised that it can be used to monitor up to 500 mm deep tanks. When it came it was much shorter, about 350 mm from memory, but Leisure Lines assured me that it would send a signal down to the full depth. I am still waiting for that signal to arrive!
So far I have only carried tests by filling a measured amount of 10 litres and emptying and seeing how this affects the reading on the control. It seems that it is only marginally accurate as the initial reading showed with varying amounts each time. I believe that it will not show a progressive indication of the water level in specific levels (say in 1/3rds) but at least it will give enough of an indication for me. This is fine as we tend to use bottled water for drinking and I shall usually only have the tank half full anyway. I shall probably monitor the input by decanting from a jerry can anyway but my concern was always not knowing how much would have been left in the tank when filling.
I fitted a vent to the top corner with spider protection by covering the end with a fabric which allows the passage of air that I used when veneering. It has occurred to me though that I could easily extend this tube so that it could be temporarily placed outside the van or into a bowl when filling if I wanted to be absolutely sure that I didn't overfill.
I didn't want to leave water in the tank over the winter as I have had past experience of black algae forming so I ran the tank "dry" with the pump and siphoned and mopped out the remaining 0.75 litre by removing the access hatch. This was quite successful and took very little time to do.
Just for the record, the sink that I used had a tap which didn't have a micro-switch to operate the pump and I got over that problem by using a Whale pressure flow switch. (Another issue that I fussed over for many weeks)
I have waffled on as I wanted to describe my experience and give as much information to help anyone considering a similar installation. It was hard going at times but I think that the overall result has been a success as it frees up so much space. (I have posted pictures of the (nearly) finished conversion on the site if you are interested and looking for any other ideas.

Wow! Thank you so much for the detail. I think I would be in over my head and really don't want to think about black algae. Think I'll get some jerry cans

 

[Murray95]

It has been a long and winding road and probably gave me more problems than any other part of the build in trying to find information. I find it very frustrating that the manufacturers of these tanks don't seem to have considered all the issues of actually making the installation work properly. They need to position the drain outlet in the side and the access hatch needs to be situated further along the top of the tank to allow a sender to be positioned in the deepest part of the tank.
I ended up with a long CBE sender fitted into the access hatch lid. I had to seal the recesses in the lid with copious amounts of black bonding (Puraflex) and fitted a couple of bits of 6 mm dowel in the top of the sender to allow me to unscrew the lid and sender by hand. The sender is wired to my CBE control panel which shows the level in the tank. I had a devils own job getting the correct wiring which took months to sort out but that is another story. (It should come as part of the CBE kit but if you have similar problems let me know as I have the part number and supplier info)
I ordered the sender from Leisure Lines who advised that it can be used to monitor up to 500 mm deep tanks. When it came it was much shorter, about 350 mm from memory, but Leisure Lines assured me that it would send a signal down to the full depth. I am still waiting for that signal to arrive!
So far I have only carried tests by filling a measured amount of 10 litres and emptying and seeing how this affects the reading on the control. It seems that it is only marginally accurate as the initial reading showed with varying amounts each time. I believe that it will not show a progressive indication of the water level in specific levels (say in 1/3rds) but at least it will give enough of an indication for me. This is fine as we tend to use bottled water for drinking and I shall usually only have the tank half full anyway. I shall probably monitor the input by decanting from a jerry can anyway but my concern was always not knowing how much would have been left in the tank when filling.
I fitted a vent to the top corner with spider protection by covering the end with a fabric which allows the passage of air that I used when veneering. It has occurred to me though that I could easily extend this tube so that it could be temporarily placed outside the van or into a bowl when filling if I wanted to be absolutely sure that I didn't overfill.
I didn't want to leave water in the tank over the winter as I have had past experience of black algae forming so I ran the tank "dry" with the pump and siphoned and mopped out the remaining 0.75 litre by removing the access hatch. This was quite successful and took very little time to do.
Just for the record, the sink that I used had a tap which didn't have a micro-switch to operate the pump and I got over that problem by using a Whale pressure flow switch. (Another issue that I fussed over for many weeks)
I have waffled on as I wanted to describe my experience and give as much information to help anyone considering a similar installation. It was hard going at times but I think that the overall result has been a success as it frees up so much space. (I have posted pictures of the (nearly) finished conversion on the site if you are interested and looking for any other ideas.

Any any chance you could link me to the pictures you refer? Would love to have a look.

 

[McFlude]

Any any chance you could link me to the pictures you refer? Would love to have a look.

The pictures were of the conversion

Home built furniture. Can I see yours?

It is one year ago today (at day of post) that I purchased a 2017 Kombi to convert. I still have to finish the door to the rear cupboard and a other few bits and bobs but thought that it is near enough finished to post a few pictures. When I was planning my conversion I was desperate for ideas...

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