Wheel Speed Sensor

[Salty Spuds]

Some info here
The difference is the VW spec/ part numbers.
One of those is listed as WHT003856C, the other is a D suffix. It's visible if you click on "show specifications" then " Show OEM numbers". The letters are not simply later revisions.
I can't tell you which number you need but the linked thread should help. FWIW, my 2016 T6 needed the rev. D.

Excellent, thanks

 

[SMHinthewild]

Usual scenario......abs/tyre pressure warning light on........start/stop not working etc. Carista is throwing up all the fault codes. I replaced my rear left sensor last year and that worked fine. Now it's my right rear. This time it's more intermittent.......sometimes the warning lights disappear whilst driving. I can clear them with Carista......but they return after a while. Obviously, it's not a good idea to be driving around like this. My question is.....this time, could it be the loom? I ask that because I watched something on youtube (admittedly about a jag) that suggested intermittent faults like this tend to be the loom rather than the sensor. Does this make sense? I forgot to make a note of the codes in case anyone code decipher them. Is the loom a straight forward job? I bought the wheel speed sensor for the oem right left wheel from euro car parts and it's been fine. I wont buy anything spurious so does anyone have any thoughts as to what it's likely to be and where to buy it from?
Cheers guys!
Dave

50k on our T6 front right sensor according to the ODBC all the usual warning lights. Got it fixed locally £300. 4 weeks later rear right same issue been too busy to sort it out. Looking at the one they took out of the front it's just dead / disintegrated / corroded. Think these sensors are just past sell by date (9 years)

 

[manfrotto]

I am pretty sure there is a diference between right and left - It is the angle which the connector comes out at which is different sides

 

[DXX]

I am pretty sure there is a diference between right and left - It is the angle which the connector comes out at which is different sides

There is, front and rear are the same though.

 

[Salty Spuds]

Just to add. I bought a couple of Bosch sensors from my local motor factors, £30 each. It’s a 1/2 hour job to change them. The hardest part is getting the van jacked up & wheel off. Don’t bother trying to get the old ones out intact, just snap them off & drive a wood screw into the bit left in the hole & use a claw hammer to pull out the remaining bit. Quick road test & all’s well.
As stated above, they are handed, but front & rears are the same.

 

[sparkzer]

I also had the dreaded dash warning the other day, I ended up picking up 4 Febi Bilstein from Parts In Motion. a shade over £40 for the 4 and german quality so seemed like a good comprimise. The old one came out without breaking (i used a combination of a small flat headed screwdriver under the tab where its bolted on and a pair of pipe grips on the bit where the plug goes and it popped right out.

Febi PNs for refference were:

Right - 23822
Left - 23824

 

[Alied]

Here's a link to the ATE web catalogue if you need to double check TecDoc

 

[Rico26]

Hi there,

I have had this issue come up whilst on holiday. I've looked at the link you kindly posted but am a bit confused about which ones I need, im finding the construction dates confusing.

According to the build sheet Pauly sent me mine was built 21.01.2019

So which ones would I need its the left rear thats gone and would I need to replace both rears at the same time ?

Thanks

 

[Salty Spuds]

Hi there,

I have had this issue come up whilst on holiday. I've looked at the link you kindly posted but am a bit confused about which ones I need, im finding the construction dates confusing.

According to the build sheet Pauly sent me mine was built 21.01.2019

So which ones would I need its the left rear thats gone and would I need to replace both rears at the same time ?

Thanks

If you go to Autodoc/Euro car parts et al. And put your reg number in to the search function, it will come up with the correct part.

 

[Rico26]

Cheers

I did that and its still giving (to my eye) confusing dates.

10 / 2020, 11 / 2019 ???

 

[DXX]

I’ve just had the second one fail within a couple of months, it looks like they fail due the expansion of rust in the hub orifice crushing the coil.
Hopefully if the new ones are installed with a good anti-seize grease they won’t fail for the same reason.
Planning on changing all of the remaining ones next time the wheels are off.
The van is 9 years old, my car is 24 years old and never had one fail.
I used to protype this sort of auto equipment when I was an engineering modelmaker, it’s amazing just how penny pinching the big auto companies are including the luxury car market.

 

[Kind of Blue]

I’ve just had the second one fail within a couple of months, it looks like they fail due the expansion of rust in the hub orifice crushing the coil.
Hopefully if the new ones are installed with a good anti-seize grease they won’t fail for the same reason.
Planning on changing all of the remaining ones next time the wheels are off.
The van is 9 years old, my car is 24 years old and never had one fail.
I used to protype this sort of auto equipment when I was an engineering modelmaker, it’s amazing just how penny pinching the big auto companies are including the luxury car market.

Mine is a 2019 vehicle and have been forced to have wheel speed sensors changed 4 times now and presently having an intermittent problem I guess with the same with christmas tree lights covering anything remotely to do with Wheel Speed Sensors, the Caravelles Achilles Heel.

 

[nimrod]

Some info here
The difference is the VW spec/ part numbers.
One of those is listed as WHT003856C, the other is a D suffix. It's visible if you click on "show specifications" then " Show OEM numbers". The letters are not simply later revisions.
I can't tell you which number you need but the linked thread should help. FWIW, my 2016 T6 needed the rev. D.

might be silly question, but,, is there only one sensor per wheel that stops all these faults,

I have had all mine done now and recently realised I could have easily done it myself. garage made very good money. they are saying I could need front pads soon, so assuming that is a straight in/out. or is there anything that needs coding, or special pads etc

 

[Salty Spuds]

might be silly question, but,, is there only one sensor per wheel that stops all these faults,

I have had all mine done now and recently realised I could have easily done it myself. garage made very good money. they are saying I could need front pads soon, so assuming that is a straight in/out. or is there anything that needs coding, or special pads etc

I recently did my front pads and discs using parts from the lovely people @Nutexa Frictions. It’s an hour a side allowing for a tea break. You need a special 9mm Allen key, easily available from any motor factors/Halfords/Euro car parts etc. apart from that it’s just the normal tools that any motor DIYer would have to hand. The hardest part is getting the van jacked up/secured/and wheels off.

 

[manfrotto]

might be silly question, but,, is there only one sensor per wheel that stops all these faults,

I have had all mine done now and recently realised I could have easily done it myself. garage made very good money. they are saying I could need front pads soon, so assuming that is a straight in/out. or is there anything that needs coding, or special pads etc

One sensor per wheel - They can be hard to get out if they are a bit stuck though, but otherwise pretty easy
Re brake discs and pads - the pads are pretty straight forward, but to chenge the discs (which may not need to be replaced), the caliper carrier needs to be removed, and this is held on with bolts that are torqued up something beyond most torque wrenches, and use "stretch" bolts that should be replaced.