Victron DC to DC charger - draining starter battery ?

Have a look over the Dc-dc charger thread......

IGN and BCM run feed talked about there....




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I’d check the condition of the starter battery first, there’s a chance it’s just knackered. Then check for any undue drain on the starter whilst stationary. Stuff like soft close doors does add up.

It’s possible the victron is so misconfigured it’s leaching off the starter but it seems unlikely.
 
Mmmm, I’ve got the original Moll battery in my 2017 It’s poo. Even after smashing all the hills on the NC 500 it’ll do the stop/start for about 10 seconds max.
But I’ve done a few weekends without hookup or starting the van for 3 or 4 days with constant door opening and stuff and it fires up first time off that crappy battery so something is deffo amiss in your setup.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I keep wondering about the isolated / non isolated versions of the Victron….

I have picked up ground from the stud under the seat (see first post) - do you think this is correct ?

so . . . yes.

The Orion may stay ON in the AUTO mode until the starter battery rest voltage drops to the switch off point. - it will the AUTO OFF.

you could look at getting the IGN feed connected to it?

you could look at upgrading to the SMART version.?
So…

I have read the threads about ignition feeds etc.

so a wire from the fuse box (one of the spare centre fuses) via a piggy back fuse - through to the green terminals on the Victron
 
the green connector block to the right just has a link wire across the terminals - straight out of the box
The DC-DC-converter has been forced ON, thus running full time - shut down at input 7 V.
 
The DC-DC-converter has been forced ON, thus running full time - shut down at input 7 V.
The DC-DC-converter has been forced ON, thus running full time - shut down at input 7 V.
Thanks MMI - sorry I am not overly technical when it comes to electronics !

so you are saying the link is causing the Victron to be on all the time and allowing draw from the starter battery ?
 
maybe look at fitting a battery monitor to the starter battery and leisure battery . .

then post the results.

some pics of the starter battery will help too.




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you can use the GREEN led to see what its doing . . .


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here is the 12/12/18 specs.

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its looking more like this unit is NOT a battery CHARGER . . . but a fixed 12v output device? (its even in the name - converter, not charger)

there is no mention of charging stages or anything. - just an Output voltage dial.

these are designed to separate battery banks with a max power through put, so a glorified relay.



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have a look at upgrading to the newer model . .

The SMART DC-DC Charger range.

they have proper charge profiles and BT APP etc . .





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this will be a direct swap for your unit.

this is the one i have. . . . . .











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Thanks MMI - sorry I am not overly technical when it comes to electronics !

so you are saying the link is causing the Victron to be on all the time and allowing draw from the starter battery ?
Yes, this DC-DC-converter (according to manual) indeed is switched on by having the link. It doesn't have engine-on detection logic - based on input voltage (as the later models have).

Thus I would say it's a candidate for the drain - although having a charger on leisure battery effectively reduces the drain to 80 mA (off load current in the spec) - because the EHU charger does the charging every now and then.



Another thing (according to manual) is that the output voltage by default is only 12.2 Volts which isn't very effective charging the leisure battery (when off EHU). I would adjust it to 13.3...13.5 Volts - but then definitely need to use ignition on -signalling to start/control the DC-DC-charger (converter).
 
its looking more like this unit is NOT a battery CHARGER . . . but a fixed 12v output device? (its even in the name - converter, not charger)

there is no mention of charging stages or anything. - just an Output voltage dial.

these are designed to separate battery banks with a max power through put, so a glorified relay.



++++++


have a look at upgrading to the newer model . .

The SMART DC-DC Charger range.

they have proper charge profiles and BT APP etc . .





View attachment 127843



this will be a direct swap for your unit.

this is the one i have. . . . . .











View attachment 127844



.


View attachment 127845

I think you are right - I have installed a DC to DC converter (as it says on the front)

The ones sold by Travelvolts are dc to dc chargers ! - should have gone there instead !

I will look at changing and post the results

thank you for all your help
 
hey I'm curious as to the solutions to this.

I have installed my dc-dc charger wondering if it'd imperative for a ignition switch or if its auto recognition once engines started.
 
hey I'm curious as to the solutions to this.

I have installed my dc-dc charger wondering if it'd imperative for a ignition switch or if its auto recognition once engines started.
Mine seems to be working fine on auto recognition. But Im interested as well
 
Mine seems to be working fine on auto recognition. But Im interested as well
I have ran a cable ready just incase, but I guess time will tell with this one I have seen a couple of contradictory statements.

gunna power it up this week and monitor the battery etc, then hook up all the 12v supply's later through the week and start testing.
 
hey I'm curious as to the solutions to this.

I have installed my dc-dc charger wondering if it'd imperative for a ignition switch or if its auto recognition once engines started.
Hi Sam,

I started this thread…. eventually I ran a switched live (ignition live) from the fuse board to the lower right of the steering wheel (T6.1) to the connection on the Victron.

As soon as I did this it worked like a dream

Hope this helps

Andy
 
Hi Sam,

I started this thread…. eventually I ran a switched live (ignition live) from the fuse board to the lower right of the steering wheel (T6.1) to the connection on the Victron.

As soon as I did this it worked like a dream

Hope this helps

Andy
Great thanks Andy, I'll get it setup tommorow glad I ran the extra cable.

Big test day tommorow thanks alot
 
Hi Sam,

I started this thread…. eventually I ran a switched live (ignition live) from the fuse board to the lower right of the steering wheel (T6.1) to the connection on the Victron.

As soon as I did this it worked like a dream

Hope this helps

Andy
Any more info as to how you did this? Pics? Thanks
Great thanks Andy, I'll get it setup tommorow glad I ran the extra cable.

Big test day tommorow thanks alot
Be interested to see if you try it without the cable first and then with to see if it makes any difference?
 
Any more info as to how you did this? Pics? Thanks

Be interested to see if you try it without the cable first and then with to see if it makes any difference?
yeah I'm still waiting also on the battery monitoring system turning up, so I'll try to gather some specifics when it does, however I don't have nothing hooked up on the load side yet to stress test it.

opted for the bm2 as a cheap fix for monitoring.

only went for the 95ah battery with rayne automotive so gunna make sure I always have enough charge as I'm guessing it won't last very long
 
yeah I'm still waiting also on the battery monitoring system turning up, so I'll try to gather some specifics when it does, however I don't have nothing hooked up on the load side yet to stress test it.

opted for the bm2 as a cheap fix for monitoring.

only went for the 95ah battery with rayne automotive so gunna make sure I always have enough charge as I'm guessing it won't last very long
Well the BT on the dc-dc and the BT2 should at least tell you if its charging. I will add a bit more info about my system if I get time as well.
As above, any details on the extra cable install?
 
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