Using 12v Jump Starter For Power

[Ann3x]

Building my kitchen pod and I need a 12V supply for the cooker's ignition. As it's removable I can either setup external wiring (bit of a faff for just an ignition) or use a portable 12V source.

Was considering killing 2 birds with one stone by wiring in a 12V jump starter like this via some plugs. Looks to me like this is just a battery bank with a high current output but it'd be handy to have around for emergencies too.

Anyone see an issue if I were to wire the 12V jump start output to my cooker ignition? Wondering if the current would fry the circuit or some other reason this is a bad idea!

Backup plan is just wiring in a basic 12V battery but a 2 in 1 solution would save space & weight.

 

[Loz]

Sounds fine to me, but please put a fuse between your pack and your cables rated appropriately for the cable you use.
Most of those packs use EC5 connectors so you can buy them loose and make up your lead with a 6way fusebox to power water pump, lights etc..

@slidepods should adopt this for their pods to power water pump, lights etc. this would save space and weight at the rear.

 

[Dellmassive]

No reason why you cant just use a separate jump pack... it will not auto charge obviously...

But there are some awesome small size lithium jump packs that can be stored away into a side pocket etc.

Have a look at the NOCO stuff, they are very good.

I have a GB150 and a GB40. (Amazon, ebay)

NOCO - Power


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Bit more info here . . .
Which Jump Starter?


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[Ann3x]

No reason why you cant just use a separate jump pack... it will not auto charge obviously...

But there are some awesome small size lithium jump packs that can be stored away into a side pocket etc.

Have a look at the NOCO stuff, they are very good.

I have a GB150 and a GB40. (Amazon, ebay)

NOCO - Power


....

Bit more info here . . .
Which Jump Starter?


...

Noco looks nice, bit more expensive but the non-discharge aspect of Li actually makes decent sense for this application.

 

[Ann3x]

With those nocos is the 12v out always on (when the banks powered up) or does it need a manual button press to set the socket live as if you are jumping?

@Dellmassive you seem to be our resident noco collector

 

[Dellmassive]

@Ann3x

As normall with the Lithium style you need to switch the device on for the output to power up...

The GB150 has a separate 12v 15A socket lead, plus the main jumper cables.... the GB40 just has jamp cables....


Like this....



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But saying that I also have a Clark 12/24 heavy duty jump pack that has the 12v socket live all the time..... it's not lithium... so it's big and heavy, but could still work for you....



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Or what about just a smallish 12v leisure battery, that's charged at home and dropped in the van for trips? ..... seeing as all the above will need charging at some point anyway..?

 

[Dellmassive]

Installing 12v Socket /s - How Its Done -

 

[Lord Mfwic]

So, is it possible to use 1 of the Lithium packs above to run a 12 v coolbox then, when its depleted could you charge it off your leisure battery 240 socket and if so, how long does a full recharge take?

 

[Lord Mfwic]

So, is it possible to use 1 of the Lithium packs above to run a 12 v coolbox then, when its depleted could you charge it off your leisure battery 240 socket and if so, how long does a full recharge take?

A quick look on the website has answered my own question (should have done that first).
The answer is yes and 3 hours.
What I don't know is if the leisure battery would have enough juice to power a full recharge of the GB150?

 

[Dellmassive]

Lol... yes but the GB150 wouldn't run a 3-6amp fridge for very long. As the total Ah capacity is not very high.... but fine for LED lights or short water pumps it's fine.

Charge time is 3-23hrs depending on method....(12v/15A, 500mA USB

Capacity wise I think it's about 25Ah.... so maybe 4x full recharges from a 100Ah leisure battery.

 

[Dellmassive]

I always take mine camping and use the 12v outlet to run the air compressor for the air-tents.... then use it to power the 12v/USB chargers etc..

Have used it to run the 12v absorption fridge but it was flat after a 3hr drive.

 

[Lord Mfwic]

I have the Halfords cool box which runs ok off my leisure battery for around 24 hours. I also take a Ring RPP 265 booster battery pack which will run the fridge for around 12 hours. I was wondering if the GB150 would replace the Ring as that is quite heavy and bulky but I think my current set up is the better of the 2 for my needs.

I'm thinking about the T6f Summer camp where we will be off grid for 4 days. I'll run it and cool everything from the house a couple of days before I leave so it won't being working as hard when I'm away. A quick run of the engine will also boost my leisure battery.

Nice bit of Kit the GB150 but I really have to stop buying stuff just because I like how it looks.

 

[Ann3x]

@Ann3x

As normall with the Lithium style you need to switch the device on for the output to power up...

The GB150 has a separate 12v 15A socket lead, plus the main jumper cables.... the GB40 just has jamp cables....

Sorry i should have been more specific. Im thinking of the GB40 and dont need the bigger output for my needs so with this unit there is no dedicated 12v output, just the jumps @12V. Im wondering if the jumps are live WHEN the device is switched on - or ONLY when the device is switched on AND the boost button has been recently pressed.

 

[mmi]

As jump starter comparable to Noco GB40 is "Telwin Drive 13000" (or even "Telwin Drive 9000") - except besides being just a jump starter it has "always on" 12V output, USB's and 19V for computers.
--> Products

EDIT: To clarify: the USB and 19V computer outputs activate by pressing the button.

 

[Dellmassive]

Sorry i should have been more specific. Im thinking of the GB40 and dont need the bigger output for my needs so with this unit there is no dedicated 12v output, just the jumps @12V. Im wondering if the jumps are live WHEN the device is switched on - or ONLY when the device is switched on AND the boost button has been recently pressed.

The Nocos have a anti-spark safety system where there is no power delivered to the jump clamps until it detects a battery connection of 4vdc (edit 2v or more) or more...

But...

You can override this by pressing and holding the button...

So in a nutshell, you need to press a button to firstly switch it on...... then if using as a power supply and not connecting it to a battery you need to press and hold the button to enable power at the clamps.... (but the 12v socket is live after the first switch on)

 

[Dellmassive]

NOCO - 4000A Lithium Jump Starter - GB150

NOCO - 2000A Lithium Jump Starter - GB70

NOCO - 1500A Lithium Jump Starter - GB50

NOCO - 1000A Lithium Jump Starter - GB40

NOCO - 400A Lithium Jump Starter - GB20



Low Voltage Batteries & Manual Override The GB150 is designed to jump start 12-volt lead-acid batteries down to 2-volts. If your battery is below 2-volts, the Boost LED will be “Off”. This is an indication that the GB150 can not detect a battery. If you need to jump start a battery below 2-volts there is a Manual Override feature, which allows you to force “On” the jump start function. CAUTION. USE THIS MODE WITH EXTREME CARE. THIS MODE IS FOR 12-VOLT LEAD-ACID BATTERIES ONLY. BOTH THE SPARK PROOF AND REVERSE POLARITY PROTECTION FEATURES ARE DISABLED. PAY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE POLARITY OF THE BATTERY BEFORE USING THIS MODE. DO NOT ALLOW THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY CLAMPS TO TOUCH OR CONNECT TO EACH OTHER AS THE PRODUCT WILL GENERATE SPARKS. THIS MODE USES VERY HIGH CURRENT (UP TO 4000 AMPS) THAT CAN CAUSE SPARKS AND HIGH HEAT IF NOT USED PROPERLY. IF YOU ARE UNSURE ABOUT USING THIS MODE, DO NOT ATTEMPT AND SEEK PROFESSIONAL HELP. Before using the Manual Override feature, make sure the HD battery clamps are connected to the correct polarity

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https://no.co/media/nocodownloads/format/g/b/gb150-lithium-jump-starter-user-guide.pdf


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[Ann3x]

The Nocos have a antiapark safety system where there is no power delivered to the jump clamps until it detects a battery connection of 4vdc (edit 2v or more) or more...

But...

You can override this by pressing and holding the button...

So in a nutshell, you need to press a button to firstly switch it on...... then if using as a power supply and not connecting it to a battery you need to press and hold the button to enable power at the clamps....

Not too bad for a cooker ignition but for something long term (cool box, light etc) would be a deal breaker I guess.

For those applications the bigger pack with the normal 12v out would seem a better choice.

 

[Dellmassive]

To run a cool-box plus lights etc you will find that . . . . . in the end.

your research will take you full circle and you will end up . . .

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stage#1 110Ah leisure battery + a DC-DC charger to charge it while driving. (fine for a day/24hrs)

stage#2 100W or so solar setup (mobile or fixed) (anything above 24hrs ie 3day weekend etc)

stage#3 beef-up any of the above for more Ah, solar watts or whatever to suit your needs.

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mobile solar:

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[Ann3x]

To run a cool-box plus lights etc you will find that . . . . . in the end.

your research will take you full circle and you will end up . . .

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I've got a Lithium based leisure setup so Im good on that. The question is what to do for the portable pod, messy wires from my leisure setup or something portable. I think this is a good solution for small power drain uses (eg ignition, lights etc) if it stays on. Clearly high draw isnt ideal but other people were clearly thinking about that.

 

[Ann3x]

So I got a Noco GB40 and tested this via the jumps. Works fine, just needs to be powered on then the override button long pressed. Once this is done the jumps are live and they power my 12V cooker ignition as expected.

Its stayed live for >1h now, with no current draw and is still showing at 100% charge, not sure if itll eventually turn off automatically (it does if just left "on", but perhaps override doesn't cancel.... not sure).

Definitely not as elegant as running via the 12v socket but worth it for the weight / space saving.