Threading Of The Engine Oil Stopper Seat

[alter]

Hello everyone ..., my mechanic and friend owns a T5 with 5-cylinder engine. On the occasion of the first replacement of the engine oil, he found that the thread of the cap seat needed a "carry over" when the cap was reinserted onto the oil sump. This has also happened on other T5 vans that have passed from his workshop the change of 'engine oil ... it seems to be known to VW this problem .. I wonder if you have news that even the new 2.0 4-cylinder engines have this drawback .... or changes have been made to the oil cup ....

 

[PJfamilyguy]

what do you mean by carryover, not sure i understand

 

[alter]

I meant that you have to redo the fillet of the seat of the cap .... to do a good job the hole is widened and you put a thread in copper..this will not ruin any more ...

 

[Lord Mfwic]

I have no idea what any of this means.

 

[mopardave]

What??????

 

[PJfamilyguy]

I think adjusting p modules on the flux capacitor makes more sense !!

 

[zombie_T6]

Is he talking about the sump plug washer? That's the only copper thing I can think of in an oil change, something is definitely lost in translation here.

 

[alter]

sorry ... and 'the translation .... I speak of the thread on the engine oil sump, where you put the cap. the cup is made of aluminum and when, at the first oil change, the cap is replaced (which is on aluminum), the threading is damaged and does not hold any more .... at least on the previous series' engines.

 

[BiTurbo]

Are we talking about the aluminium sump plug in to a steel sump by any chance?

 

[alter]

I'm sorry but this translator makes me stupid .... and 'the thread of the aluminum cup that is ruined by tightening the cap .... I do not know if the new engines have a change ...

 

[Tourershine]

What I think @alter is refereeing to is the sump on the older T5's had an aluminium sump, with a steel sump plug.
Basically it's common for the sump plug to be over tightened and strip the threads in the sump, meaning it needs a helicoil thread tapping and inserting into the sump, and a different plug. (I only know this because my brothers Golf had the same problem happen several times, until it's now at the point where we need to replace the full sump because there's nothing more to tap a new thread into and it has a slow oil leak)
It's the other way round from memory to what Alter is saying. It's the sump that's aluminium, and the plug that's steel, otherwise it would just be a case of a new plug each time it's overtightened, with aluminium obviously being the softer metal.

I assume he's asking if the new T6 has the same Ali sump, and steel bung, and therefor potentially the same issue in the future?

 

[alter]

Yes!!
I finally managed to explain ....
tell me everything...

 

[Tourershine]

Yes!!
I finally managed to explain ....
tell me everything...

Looking on Google image's at a T6 engine, it looks like it's still using the Aluminium sump, but I don't know if VW have modified the sump plug thread to combat this problem that's common on the older vehicles.
My advice would be to either let a dealer take the responsibility of an oil change, or find the VW torque setting for a bung if you do this yourself.

For the sake of what a sump plug and washer costs, i'd personally just change them as part of the service, but at a minimum the copper washer needs to be changed because it gets squashed when tightened up.

 

[alter]

..... I was hoping the problem was solved .... I'm careful to make my Cali touch the dealer, especially in my city .... or I replace the oil by sucking the pump .... I did so 'also with other vehicles and boats and never problems ... thank you so much !!

 

[Pauly]

I think most main dealers use a suction pump now rather than removing and draining through sump plug

 

[alter]

vero .....- lavoro ...,

 

[Tourershine]

I think most main dealers use a suction pump now rather than removing and draining through sump plug

Really?
From my experience as a mechanic years ago, this method would never remove all the old oil like the more traditional method of removing the sump bung at the lowest point of the engine. Is that the official way to remove oil now? It's been some years since i've worked in a garage, and I don't have a huge amount of experience of modern engines and service methods.

 

[Pauly]

I would agree it’s not the best method but seems to be the favoured ‘approved’ method ??

 

[alter]

..... I can tell my experience ..., on the Grand Cherokee 3.0 diesel removing the cap discharging 9.5 liters of oil .... with the pump come out 9.7 liters .... tried several times. .... in my boat engines sucking with the pump does not remain in the sump any oil ... any metal residues remain on the magnetized cap ...

 

[Tourershine]

I would agree it’s not the best method but seems to be the favoured ‘approved’ method ??

Sounds like another ridiculous time cutting exercise to me if this is true.
Yeah, oils are much better in quality, and engines rarely wear out like they used to, but there's a certain satisfaction in leaving a sump plug out on a ramp for several hours whilst you do the rest of the service work, knowing you've removed almost every drop of used and contaminated dirty oil.

Maybe next time I have a service, I will only pay 90% of the bill if i'm only getting 90% of a service

Another reason to do the job yourself.