T6.1 Ignition Live for DC-DC B2B Charger
- Thread starter T6Jay
- Start date
Center dash fuse box,
But as above different fusebox, so it needs testing first..
But as above different fusebox, so it needs testing first..
Via piggyback adaptors I've used;
The red circled fuse for my DC/DC ignition wire. Don't know what this fuse is but the van doesn't start without it, yet will keep running if it's removed after starting.
The blue circled fuse for my reversing camera. The instructions were to splice this at the back of the head unit, but that leaves a 20A fuse protecting a 0.5mm? cable (bad idea).
The red circled fuse for my DC/DC ignition wire. Don't know what this fuse is but the van doesn't start without it, yet will keep running if it's removed after starting.
The blue circled fuse for my reversing camera. The instructions were to splice this at the back of the head unit, but that leaves a 20A fuse protecting a 0.5mm? cable (bad idea).
Now you have confused me
. I have yet to fit my B2B ignition live but was thinking why not use the spare fuse ways as I have done with the dashcam as per the picture showing the piggyback. Is there any reason why you didnt use a spare slot for yours, just saves pulling unknown fuses but I may have it wrong.
Now you have confused me
For the reversing camera, it's supposed to have power when the head unit has power, so the logical choice for me was to use the head unit fuse. Maybe there is a spare fuseway with the same 12V that I could use, but without a wiring diagram (or removing the fuseboard) I can't be sure.
For the B2B the only standard size fuses that are on with ignition are those on the RHS (I think?), the spare slots above them have no inserts in them, otherwise they would have been ideal.
I suppose the ultimate neat OCD way would be to fit new inserts in the spare ways and wire into the rear of the board. My OCD is not that strong!
When I eventually get hold of a wiring diagram, or a fuse board description, with the 12V descriptions (on with ignition, on permanently etc) I may have a tidy up.
When I get a minute I will have another look. All I did with the dashcam install ( as seen in the picture ) was plug a fused piggyback into a spare slot and tested with a multimeter.....12v when ignition on / dead when fuse pulled, although they are midi fuses on that row.
Are you aware that the piggyback fuseholder will happily provide 12V whichever way you plug it in (if it holds 2 fuses), but only one way is correct?
Although I guess if you used a spare slot, and only fitted 'fuse 2' into the piggyback, then 12V out means you must have put it in the right way round.
Yes thank you. I checked that it was the right way round and yes i only used the one fuse to feed the dashcam. My problem now is the DAB radio cutting out due to interference. Not an easy fix but looking into ferrite cores or better quality 12v to 5v adaptor.
"20A fuse protecting a 0.5mm? cable (bad idea)". . . .
Yes bad idea.
Add a new fuse to protect that very thin wire as low as possible. Ie 3A or 1A.
20A on a 0.5mm wire could burn up under a fault condition.
Yes bad idea.
Add a new fuse to protect that very thin wire as low as possible. Ie 3A or 1A.
20A on a 0.5mm wire could burn up under a fault condition.
Yes I have done, thanks Dellmassive, a 2A fuse. I'm surprised the camera supplier suggested to splice their very small cable into the 4mm? one that feeds the head unit.
det0x
New Member
Hey, could you share how you did the connection to the DC/DC ignition wire?
Did you read post 6 above, as suggested on the other thread
I used one of these;
View attachment 119164
It re-locates the original fuse, and provides a 'branch' for a new fused circuit.
"Also wanted to ask, if the current is low, as the booster specifications request for a very low A to get into the D+ terminal."
I'm not sure what you mean here. What is the 'booster' you mention?
If you are telling me that the 'booster' ignition signal is low current, then that is a property of the booster circuits. The vehicle 12V will supply whatever* current (A) is demanded by the load (booster).
*up to the limits of the supply/circuit/fuse etc
View attachment 119164
It re-locates the original fuse, and provides a 'branch' for a new fused circuit.
"Also wanted to ask, if the current is low, as the booster specifications request for a very low A to get into the D+ terminal."
I'm not sure what you mean here. What is the 'booster' you mention?
If you are telling me that the 'booster' ignition signal is low current, then that is a property of the booster circuits. The vehicle 12V will supply whatever* current (A) is demanded by the load (booster).
*up to the limits of the supply/circuit/fuse etc
det0x
New Member
Sorry, by booster I mean DC-DC charger (we are calling them booster in Spain...).
One more thing, by connecting the DC-DC charger switch (D+ signal) to the ignition fuse, you are not getting sure if the Alternator is working, and I though this is the main purpose of having a charger. To notice the alternator working. I understand that the assumption that the alternator will power when engine is powered on is in most of the cases right, but might this be an issue ?
One more thing, by connecting the DC-DC charger switch (D+ signal) to the ignition fuse, you are not getting sure if the Alternator is working, and I though this is the main purpose of having a charger. To notice the alternator working. I understand that the assumption that the alternator will power when engine is powered on is in most of the cases right, but might this be an issue ?
There is no D+ signal from the alternator. The closest you will get is making a new connection to the BCM and using the signal that closes the Aux battery separator relay.
Use Pin 3 in the black plug on the BCM. This will give you +12v when the engine is running. You will need to activate Module 09, Byte 17, Bit 4 Battery Separating Relay active
Deaky, I have a Victron dc-dc charger, it is running of the auto sense thing at the moment. Will there be a benefit to adding a connection to the bcm? If so do you have a link to where I can get the correct pin/wire from? I am debating fitting a tow bar so would add this at the same time if there is a benefit. Thanks
I don’t think you’d see any difference @Skyliner33
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