T-L Powerfold Mirrors Not As They Should Be.

Jason Tapp

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Guys,

If anyone can shed some light, as I can't sleep right now.

Went ahead and purchased the full power fold mirror kit from Travelin Lite.

Originally, lock and unlock on the remote, folded and unfolded the mirrors. Albeit on the passenger side I had to swap a wire over on the connector as when the mirror should have been folded up - locked. the Passenger mirror was down.

The fold on the interior mirror switch has caused me issues, basically move to fold, hear the module relays click, but no fold. Move to L and back to fold and on the second time mirrors fold. Same for mirrors down, I have to move the switch twice to get the mirrors to respond. Also to note I was leaving seconds to ensure I wasn't being impatient.

This was very intermittent and sometime would work on first twist of switch.

Replaced both the module and switch no change. Lock on remote has never proved a problem until now. That has also now become intermittent. I have checked the temporary wiring connections and getting feeds through them as I expect on the voltmeter.

I say temporary connections as nothing is soldered in as I don't want to complete full wiring until I'm satisfied this is fully working.

What the hell can it be?

Your thoughts and suggestions most welcome.
 
Hi Jay,

Can you please list exactly what was included in originally supplied kit? Was is all brand new?
Also where did you get replacement components from? Where they new as well?
 
Robert,

Hi yes all brand new directly from Travelin Lite, this was the kit I purchased, VW T6 Power Folding Mirror Kit Genuine Mirrors & Switch

The product states, Genuine VW power folding mirrors, Genuine VW power folding mirror switch, a module and associated wiring loom.

There was no need for replacement components, as the kit provided all that is needed. Additionally I already had a spare Genuine VW power folding mirror switch. Also Travelin Lite have send out a second module, but swapping out both of these parts made no difference.

Take this evening during which I have checked all connections and measured voltage again. Still intermittent on the folding mirror switch, but you can here the module clicking on each move of the switch. Locked the van on remote mirrors folded. An hour later went back to the can to retrieve my voltage recordings and on unlock on the remote mirrors failed to unfold. Locked and unlocked again, second time they unfolded and then folded on lock.

It is so intermittent, now even on the remote lock and unlock.

Could it be software, you would think not as it would work or not.

May be my temporary connections, but I'm getting voltage readings as below, do these sound right?

Blue/Yellow - factory unlock, ignition off 0.00v, engine running 15.4v (strange as would expect this to remain at 0.00v), unlock pulse very quick voltage increase (brief reading) 12.?v
Violet - factory lock, ignition off 0.00v, engine running, 15.4 (strange as would expect this to remain at 0.00v), lock pulse very quick voltage increase (brief reading) 11.0v
Yellow - folding mirror switch PIN 8, Position L O R all the same 4.9v, Position fold 0.41v, Position heat 4.29v
Red/Black - ignition positive, ignition off 0.00v, engine running 14.81v
Red - permanent positive, engine running 14.81v

I measured with the engine running as after three days trying to resolve this, I wanted to ensure I don't get a flat battery and also enough power to supply any circuit.

Must admit, I realise that I didn't record voltage going to the mirrors on each side red/white from kit going to passenger mirror brown/red and drivers mirror red/black. Also red/black from kit going to passenger mirror red/black and drivers side brown/red. But Have already tested these and from memory they did produce a reading whilst the mirror fold was in action.

Many thanks, regards Jay
 
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£649 !!!!!!!!!!!!
Are you serious?
Rip off!
:(
 
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Okay, I still don't have enough data to provide you with a quick solution.
I know how OEM setup works and also I know exactly how my "design" works;). But I have no knowledge of this company "design", although I suspect that their control box does the same thing as my 2 relays combined with Chinese module (and costs probably 15 times more!).

Can you post their wiring diagram?

As there seems to be the same intermittent behaviour with manual switch and remote lock/unlock signals I suspect the control box to be the problem.
If the mirrors behave in the same way (LHS always acting the same as RHS) I would assume that they are okay.
 
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£649 !!!!!!!!!!!!
Are you serious?
Rip off!
:(

Yes I’m serious. I went for the kit for two reasons, I’m no expert when it comes to this sort of stuff - hence the need for help. Also, ironically I thought it would be a fairly quick to install. As mainly connecting and running wires.
How wrong was I!!
 
Can you post their wiring diagram?

As there seems to be the same intermittent behaviour with manual switch and remote lock/unlock signals I suspect the control box to be the problem.
If the mirrors behave in the same way (LHS always acting the same as RHS) I would assume that they are okay.

I’ll post up the diagram later this evening.

The intermittent part was originally just the mirror door switch, but now using the remote is just the same. Folded on the remote last night, and this morning only once out of two attempts.

Yes both LHS and RHS mirrors behave in the same manner. But to note on the LHS mirror I had to swap the wires over as when locked folded the LHS mirror was unfolded.

More later and I do appreciate your help.

regards Jay
 
Evening, and so it continues.....

Right just to clarify, the wires running to the LHS and RHS mirrors are exactly as they should be and as per the wiring diagram.

Here us the wiring diagram


In addition to these reading:

Blue/Yellow - factory unlock, ignition off 0.00v, engine running 15.4v (strange as would expect this to remain at 0.00v), unlock pulse very quick voltage increase (brief reading) 12.?v
Violet - factory lock, ignition off 0.00v, engine running, 15.4 (strange as would expect this to remain at 0.00v), lock pulse very quick voltage increase (brief reading) 11.0v
Yellow - folding mirror switch PIN 8, Position L O R all the same 4.9v, Position fold 0.41v, Position heat 4.29v
Red/Black - ignition positive, ignition off 0.00v, engine running 14.81v
Red - permanent positive, engine running 14.81v

I can now add:
(must admit these reading are all over the place I took some video footage)
Red/White - Factory Mirror (LHS Brown/Red and RHS Red/Black) 0.00v, 12.5v when mirror is moving
Red/Black - Factory Mirror (LHS Red/Black and RHS Brown/Red) 0.00v, not been able to record as not working at the moment.
 
1. What equipment/meter are you using to take all of these voltage readings?
2. What methodology of joining the wires did you use? (soldering, crimping, etc.)

I need you to perform the following test on your new OEM mirror switch.
- disconnect the whole kit from your vehicle and just leave your new mirror switch connected
- connect any 12V DC bulb(or tester https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dapetz-Hea...ocphy=1007850&hvtargid=pla-700778266521&psc=1 ) to your yellow wire coming out of the switch and the other side of the bulb/tester connect to permanent +12VDC
- keep on rotating your switch and every time you will get in folded position the bulb/tester should light up and in any other position should remain exstinguished(off)
- repeat this process number of times and make sure that your switch works correctly

Below is the video of my aftermarket setup and functionality of my OEM mirror switch;).
 
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1. What equipment/meter are you using to take all of these voltage readings?
2. What methodology of joining the wires did you use? (soldering, crimping, etc.)

I need you to perform the following test on your new OEM mirror switch.
- disconnect the whole kit from your vehicle and just leave your new mirror switch connected
- connect any 12V DC bulb(or tester https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dapetz-Hea...ocphy=1007850&hvtargid=pla-700778266521&psc=1 ) to your yellow wire coming out of the switch and the other side of the bulb/tester connect to permanent +12VDC
- keep on rotating your switch and every time you will get in folded position the bulb/tester should light up and in any other position should remain distinguished
- repeat this process number of times and make sure that your switch works correctly.

Apologies its a taken a while to respond I had to purchase a tester, as I don't have one. I purchased the exact same thing you liked to above, but form Halfords so I could test today.
Followed your test and each time I turned to fold, the light build lit. To be sure I tested from other direction and both switches as I did have a spare.

1.I'm using a digital multimeter, the exact one in the picture and on those setting. Again I'm no expert here, so even that could be wrong.

2 Method of connection at the moment is crimps. However my permanent install will be solder as I don't like crimps.

What do you think next steps are.

BTW - very much appreciated.

Regards Jason

IMG_8353.jpg

image.png
 
Next step is to get replacement control box from your supplier.
 
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I had a similar issue to this with intermittent operation whilst on a temporary connection to the fuse box.
Got a replacement connector from them but that didn't work, next was a replacement control box, again still working intermittent.
Hooked up permenant supply to fuse box with proper quad lock connections and they have worked perfect ever since.
Might be worth trying the proper connection, what I thought was a great temp fix was the source of my issue.
 
Could well be the problem, I made all my connections permanent first time and have had no issues so far.
 
Apologies its a taken a while to respond I had to purchase a tester, as I don't have one. I purchased the exact same thing you liked to above, but form Halfords so I could test today.
Followed your test and each time I turned to fold, the light build lit. To be sure I tested from other direction and both switches as I did have a spare.

1.I'm using a digital multimeter, the exact one in the picture and on those setting. Again I'm no expert here, so even that could be wrong.

2 Method of connection at the moment is crimps. However my permanent install will be solder as I don't like crimps.

What do you think next steps are.

BTW - very much appreciated.

Regards Jason

View attachment 59390

View attachment 59391
Just to add.

Crimping is the main methodology of joining any wiring in automotive industry. Absolutely no car manufacturer would use soldering over crimping. Another words you won't find any solder joints on factory wiring in your vehicle:)

On this occasion you could ask your supplier to fully test the control box before despatch:whistle:
 
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Hi guys,

As part of troubleshooting before coming to this place that contains a wealth of knowledge, was to request a replacement control module from Travelin Lite.

The replacement control module, is generating the same intermittant outcome to operation, from either mirror switch or fold/unfold on remote. As that didn't work they have also sent me a replacment multi-pin connector. Since my test performed as requested by Robert, all connections are reconnected and using a crimp method, as noted by Robert.

Still I have this intermittent issue, of actual mirror movement (so to speak), but I always hear relays engaging and disengaging.

In speaking to Travelin Lite, they had another customer yesterday with the same issue. Using an old, control module, the issue was resolved, they are now investigating software issue on their module. I thought the control module just had relays within it.

Guess it's a waiting game.
 
Robert,

Looking at your thread and the Option 2, you have installed. Please can you proved me a link to the exact relays you used in this set up.

I have just ordered a module, similar to yours as I want to rule in or our the module I currently have.

Many thanks Jason
 
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