Split-Chargers & Bluemotion

[T6 Dave]

@travelvolts , agreed with the 30amp max Sometimes more is less, one question for the Ring rep, or suggestion for product improvement.. Is the display back lit? Also would you agree that the ignition controlled isolating relay is not required with this unit to protect the starter battery, as it goes into sleep mode, and also has a protection function to avoid depleting the main battery?

 

[Loz]

I would also be interested to know if the Ring unit has a temperature sensor for the battery like the Ctek units have.

 

[T6 Dave]

@Loz, yep it does, if you look on the link to Ring, there is the manual there for download, would link to it here, but still new to things.

 

[Loz]

RSCDC30 Instructions.pdf

 

[rod_vw]

It was the Ring instruction manual that made me consider the capacity to charge a pair of leisure batteries as it speaks of an error message relating to over current charging. i.e. E30 'Charging current too high' Resolution 'Reduce charging current to less than 30Amps'. Short of putting a resistor!!! in series with the input circuit how could you do that? (A resistor used like that could replace the Eberspacher!)
From experience I have blown a 45Amp fuse in the charge circuit of a simple split charge set-up when a single leisure battery has been rather 'low'.

@T6 Dave , my set-up would be to feed the incoming to the Ring RSDC30 from fuse 3 in the 'E' box with a 15sq mm cable then the output to the two batteries via individual fuses. Leisure circuits would be taken from the common point of the output fuses via their own individual fused circuits etc.
A 100W or 130W solar panel fed into the RSDC30 as appropriate. It will be a bit more sophisticated than it sounds there but you get the drift of it?

@travelvolts, Martyn when you see the Ring Rep please could inquire if there are any implications of connecting an EHU charger to the leisure battery side of the RSDC30. I guess not but it's worth inquiring.

Link to Ring manual. - Sorry Loz we crossed in the ether!

Rod

 

[T6 Dave]

@rod_vw , you might have to link the batteries together to form a larger single bank, with an amp hour of less than the 300 suggested by @travelvolts. Note though that the batteries should be matched in type, capacities etc, also same age, pref same make, and replaced as a unit.

 

[T6 Dave]

@rod_vw looking at the error 3 in the Ring manual, I think that it's max 30amp from source battery, as the unit is connected all the time, and if you don't exceed the 300amphr capacity, I would expect it to cope, unless it encounters a short, or collapsed battery, in which case I think it shuts down until the error is cleared, but will ask.

 

[MartyMoose]

The Ring unit looks like a good solution to me. I might have gone with it myself if I hadn't already bought the CTEK Dual. I also like the idea of a display showing charging rate and voltage etc. Looks like Ring have come up with a product designed for smart alternators rather than trying to make an existing product fit the bill.

If you intend to use the VW second battery charge relay controlled by the BCM just check its there first! My highline had nothing. No relay, no cable, not even a fuse in the main engine bay fuse box. Hence why I've had to run it all in myself.

 

[Alan Walsh]

I have the Ring in mine and have had for 6 months, works perfect with no issues at all.

 

[rod_vw]

The Ring unit looks like a good solution to me. I might have gone with it myself if I hadn't already bought the CTEK Dual. I also like the idea of a display showing charging rate and voltage etc. Looks like Ring have come up with a product designed for smart alternators rather than trying to make an existing product fit the bill.

If you intend to use the VW second battery charge relay controlled by the BCM just check its there first! My highline had nothing. No relay, no cable, not even a fuse in the main engine bay fuse box. Hence why I've had to run it all in myself.

@MartyMoose , Yes that's not new to me as this is the fourth T5/6 that I have converted using the BCM control, the hardest problem was locating the correct connector to insert in the BCM connector. Not now a problem as I have a box of them from Wurth.
Previously I have used the following relay High Current Relays from VWP switched by the BCM.

@T6 Dave thanks for the advice, I'm familiar with that.

Rod

 

[rod_vw]

I have the Ring in mine and have had for 6 months, works perfect with no issues at all.

Alan, do you have a solar panel and/or EHU charging unit as well?

Rod

 

[Alan Walsh]

Hi Rod, No haven't bothered with either as I do so many Miles.

 

[Willoughby]

Sooooo, Now I know the Ring will work I will get it connected.

I went for the optional extra IS1 “Electrical interface for external use” (terminal strip in driver's underseat box) With the intention of connecting the charger to the main battery using the 30A feed "A4" in the Gray plug. Is this sensible, if so where do I get the metal pins for the plug? If not is it a new circuit direct from the battery clamp?

Thanks in Advance.

Kev
Kev

 

[travelvolts]

Thats any interesting point you make there @travelvolts , i can confirm headunits are VIN coded and non transferable (even when dealers disable component protection) and i thought component protection extended across all control modules but have changed a few with no issues, they didnt even need coding in just swapped and worked ? so my assumption is that it is restricted to 'important' modules

Very Interesting! I guess we will have to wait and learn as time goes on

 

[travelvolts]

@travelvolts , agreed with the 30amp max Sometimes more is less, one question for the Ring rep, or suggestion for product improvement.. Is the display back lit? Also would you agree that the ignition controlled isolating relay is not required with this unit to protect the starter battery, as it goes into sleep mode, and also has a protection function to avoid depleting the main battery?

I will ask the question. No relay is needed on this or any other active charger that I know of. I think with the CTEK it is more a case of Isolating the starter battery from a direct output from the solar panel as both are connecting to the same input. All the active charging units that I have experienced draw power from the starter battery until a preset voltage is reached, usually about 12.4-12.5. At this voltage the CTEK is drawing about 0.3 amps from the starter battery when connected to the solar input. I need to run the same test on another unit to see if I get the same results when more stock arrives.

 

[gmaster]

I have the factory eberspacher and leisure battery (under passenger seat). I was thinking of keeping that all as it came as standard, but running my sterling BB1260 from the main battery to 2 X AGM batteries at the rear of the van on a totally separate circuit. Do you think that will cause any issues?

 

[travelvolts]

No, they will run completely independently of each other. Don't expect those batteries to last very long though charging them at 60 amps!

 

[gmaster]

Thanks for the reply. What would be the best thing to do?

 

[travelvolts]

Fit open wet batteries that can be topped up or if you absolutely must use AGMs swap the charger for a 30 amp one.

 

[gmaster]

Thanks again for helping. Is there a place to vent wet batteries behind the Komi seats? Something like the grommets under the seats? I'm trying to achieve 2-3 days of off grid power, for TV, fridge, music and laptop charging etc.