[Guide] Sound Deadening and Insulation -- How To Do It --
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
I didnt have a mat but I removed my standard step and added under and the new kombi step went back on fine.
Plastic steps? yes, I removed both cab plastics and slidey door plastic. Theres plenty of space as you will see. I had no problems.
I did the door outer and the door inner and the actual door plastic trim. My only real hassle was the window seal where the trim hooks into. But i figured it out in the end. ie, do this first.
I have the OEM rear foamy thing, tis about an inch thick. I still had no hassle with side plastic and I silent coated the entire rear. Including all the steps. I also have the OEM thick(ish) carpet which has big chunks of moulded foam and I had no trouble in the cab. It seems 2mm is fine.
I did the door outer and the door inner and the actual door plastic trim. My only real hassle was the window seal where the trim hooks into. But i figured it out in the end. ie, do this first.
I have the OEM rear foamy thing, tis about an inch thick. I still had no hassle with side plastic and I silent coated the entire rear. Including all the steps. I also have the OEM thick(ish) carpet which has big chunks of moulded foam and I had no trouble in the cab. It seems 2mm is fine.
Its those 'sounds like a golf' ones, theyre additional.
VW T5 T5.1 T6 Transporter Sounds like a Golf Door Seal and Dash Trim Combo | eBay
This rubber is fitted to high end T5’s and T6’s normally the california and caravelle models, it sits between the cab door’s and the body of the van. Its purpose is to make the door sound quieter and shut with more of a clunk than a rattle.
www.ebay.com
Lucio
Member
Thanks for this ...
Do you think 2mm is max that can go under the original kombi mat?
I dont know Lucio as I've not trialed anything thicker, but with all the ribs and nooks and crannies, rebates etc , I'd estimate it to be more difficult in places. I'd looked at many threads and posts and all seemed to use 2mm. So I accepted that as a consensus. It also seemed what was recommended by suppliers and the like.
Choosing a sunny weekend, albeit accidentally, helps too. I lay them out before to warm up before i use them. I'd assume thicker pads would benefit from this more than the 2mm. Perish the thought of doing this in winter.
Boopz, yes. Its a 5min fit and boy does it make a difference. I too need a new drivers side main seal as its split at the step a tiny bit.
Choosing a sunny weekend, albeit accidentally, helps too. I lay them out before to warm up before i use them. I'd assume thicker pads would benefit from this more than the 2mm. Perish the thought of doing this in winter.
Boopz, yes. Its a 5min fit and boy does it make a difference. I too need a new drivers side main seal as its split at the step a tiny bit.
Lucio
Member
Sorry Lost me on .... what’s a 5min fit? Lol
Lucio
Member
Yep done that .... best mod for the price I think
Ultimately yes. It alters the resonant frequency of the panel to reduce vibration and therefore noise. That said, any addition of mass and in the case of Silent Coat an extra layer of rubber/bitumen will dampen the transfer of noise albeit with diminishing returns once you get past 50% coverage or so.
Your best bet is just cover all accessible simple shapes/surfaces, then foam, then wool!
Your best bet is just cover all accessible simple shapes/surfaces, then foam, then wool!
The roof panels sit far enough below the roof metalwork to allow the addition of some sound and/or thermal insulation.
I used 2mm silent coat to cover the open spaces including strips under the crossbars where the ribs left gaps. I then covered the whole area (minus crossbars) in 12mm dodo mat. Plenty of room.
I used 2mm silent coat to cover the open spaces including strips under the crossbars where the ribs left gaps. I then covered the whole area (minus crossbars) in 12mm dodo mat. Plenty of room.
Yep. Definitely the most under estimated purchase for me too. You always find more places to put it...
I planned to do the rear sides, tailgate and roof but then did external arches and front doors too (dodo 6mm foam on inner arch). I used 140 sheets but still need to do the floor and front roof area.....
I planned to do the rear sides, tailgate and roof but then did external arches and front doors too (dodo 6mm foam on inner arch). I used 140 sheets but still need to do the floor and front roof area.....
dhod
Member
What are peoples thoughts on just concentrating on the rear (living area) for sound deadening and insulation. So far I’ve added silent coat and thermo liner to:
Rear panels
Sliding door
Tailgate
Will be adding deadn duo to the floor.
Can’t decide if the benefit outweighs the hassle of stripping everything outside of the driving area?
Rear panels
Sliding door
Tailgate
Will be adding deadn duo to the floor.
Can’t decide if the benefit outweighs the hassle of stripping everything outside of the driving area?
It does make a difference if you deaden the cab floor and bulkhead and also under the headlining, worth doing IMHO but you pay your money as they say. If your doing a camper you might be getting the floor up to do electrics don’t it makes sense to do it then.
I found it made a big difference to add some to the parts of the small overhead stowage in the cab. Stopped it rattling and buzzing.
